[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"categories-en":3,"dest-d26ee6cf6580":144,"detail-extra-810":172,"travel-countries-en":315},[4,9,14,19,24,29,34,39,44,49,54,59,64,69,74,79,84,89,94,99,104,109,114,119,124,129,134,139],{"id":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"color":8},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":10,"slug":11,"name":12,"color":13},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":15,"slug":16,"name":17,"color":18},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":20,"slug":21,"name":22,"color":23},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":25,"slug":26,"name":27,"color":28},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":30,"slug":31,"name":32,"color":33},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":35,"slug":36,"name":37,"color":38},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":40,"slug":41,"name":42,"color":43},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":45,"slug":46,"name":47,"color":48},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":50,"slug":51,"name":52,"color":53},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":55,"slug":56,"name":57,"color":58},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":60,"slug":61,"name":62,"color":63},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":65,"slug":66,"name":67,"color":68},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":70,"slug":71,"name":72,"color":73},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":75,"slug":76,"name":77,"color":78},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":80,"slug":81,"name":82,"color":83},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":85,"slug":86,"name":87,"color":88},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":90,"slug":91,"name":92,"color":93},1,"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":95,"slug":96,"name":97,"color":98},2,"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":100,"slug":101,"name":102,"color":103},3,"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":105,"slug":106,"name":107,"color":108},4,"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":110,"slug":111,"name":112,"color":113},5,"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":115,"slug":116,"name":117,"color":118},6,"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":120,"slug":121,"name":122,"color":123},7,"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":125,"slug":126,"name":127,"color":128},8,"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":130,"slug":131,"name":132,"color":133},12,"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":135,"slug":136,"name":137,"color":138},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":140,"slug":141,"name":142,"color":143},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"id":145,"publicId":146,"slug":147,"name":148,"shortDescription":149,"categoryId":80,"importance":105,"lng":150,"lat":151,"coverImageUrl":152,"country":153,"region":154,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":155,"distanceM":-1,"kind":156,"cityGuideId":157,"description":158,"countryCode":159,"adminArea":157,"elevationM":160,"bestMonths":161,"tips":165,"howToGetThere":157,"youtubeIds":166,"timezone":157,"cityGuideSlug":157,"cityGuidePublicId":157,"cityGuideName":157,"poiTheme":157,"poiNeighborhood":157},810,"d26ee6cf6580","asmara","Asmara","An entire Art Deco city built in Eritrea's highlands between 1935 and 1941 and never modernised, preserved by war and isolation rather than by planning.",38.94111,15.33583,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F810\u002Fcover.webp","Eritrea","Maekel",0,"settlement",null,"Asmara is the capital of Eritrea, a city of 2,300 metres in the highlands where the Italians built an entire modernist city between 1935 and 1941 in the six years of their empire, and it was never modernised, preserved by war and isolation rather than planning, so that it stands as the most complete Art Deco and futurist townscape on Earth, walked in an afternoon along its palm-lined avenues. Mussolini's architects treated the city as a drawing board, and the results are still in use: the Fiat Tagliero service station of 1938, whose two concrete wings fifteen metres to a side reach out over the forecourt from a tower shaped like a cockpit with not one column beneath them, after the architect Pettazzi is said to have threatened the builders with a pistol to make them remove the props; the Cinema Impero of 1937 on Harnet Avenue, behind a facade of stacked porthole lamps, one of the finest Deco cinemas left standing and still showing films; the Opera House of 1918 with its colonnade of Romanesque arches, where the macchiato is drunk on the steps. The elegant centre was drawn for Italians only, with a fence of law that kept the Eritreans in their own quarter, a line that can no longer be seen but shaped the city.\n\nThe modernism is not only in the monuments but in the ordinary blocks, the villas, bars and cinemas of the whole centre, listed by UNESCO in 2017, and the city's cafés keep the Italian habit of the evening walk and the espresso. Italian-built steam locomotives, some of them articulated Mallets, still work the top of the railway that engineers cut into the escarpment through thirty-odd tunnels and sixty-five bridges, running down to Arbaroba on excursion days, and on the outskirts lies one of the largest scrapyards of war machinery anywhere, hundreds of tanks and armoured trucks from thirty years of fighting stacked in rusting heaps. In September the plateau comes up yellow with the Meskel daisy. Asmara is a city that time skipped, and the skipping is what saved it.","ER",2325,[90,95,100,105,110,162,163,164,130],9,10,11,"permit|**Anything more than 25 km outside Asmara needs a travel permit** — apply at the Ministry of Tourism office on Harnet Avenue and allow one to three working days, so file it on your first morning.\nsafety|**Keep the camera down around anything official** — photographing government buildings, bridges, checkpoints and soldiers is illegal, and foreigners have been questioned over ordinary street shots taken near uniforms.\ntiming|**Shoot the facades early and walk the city late** — the highland sun rakes low along the avenues before nine, and the passeggiata fills Harnet Avenue from about six until dinner.\naccess|**The steam train runs as a charter, not a service** — there is no timetable and no ticket window, since an operator hires the locomotive for a whole group, so join an existing trip.\nmonths|**Nights are cold whatever the afternoon felt like** — at 2,325 metres the temperature can swing as much as 20°C between day and night, so carry a jacket even in the warm dry months.",[167,168,169,170,171],"vO8AkY-SVnI","BHfaIOiyYwY","f44wHccOIx8","ZcRbQhOV5V0","q8OIHMRvOiY",{"gallery":173,"exps":188,"boxes":211,"seasons":227,"near":257,"peers":314},[174,176,179,181,183,186],{"url":152,"attribution":175},"Foto: Clay Gilliland \u002F CC BY-SA 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":177,"attribution":178},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F810\u002Fg0.webp","Foto: David Stanley \u002F CC BY 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":180,"attribution":175},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F810\u002Fg1.webp",{"url":182,"attribution":175},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F810\u002Fg2.webp",{"url":184,"attribution":185},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F810\u002Fg3.webp","Foto: Sailko \u002F CC BY 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":187,"attribution":175},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F810\u002Fg4.webp",[189,194,199,203,207],{"title":190,"description":191,"imageUrl":192,"attribution":193},"Photograph the Fiat Tagliero","Cross the road and look up: two concrete wings, fifteen metres to a side, reach out over the old forecourt from a tower shaped like a cockpit, and not one column stands under them. Pettazzi finished it in 1938 and it has not moved since. The pumps beneath are idle now and the apron is fenced, but the building still looks like it is taxiing for take-off.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F810\u002Fe1.webp","Foto: Voice of Clam \u002F Public domain (Wikimedia Commons)",{"title":195,"description":196,"imageUrl":197,"attribution":198},"Catch a film at Cinema Impero","Opened in 1937 on Harnet Avenue behind a facade of stacked porthole lamps, the Impero is one of the finest Art Deco cinemas left standing anywhere, and it still shows films. Sit down for whatever is screening — you are really there for the room, the terrazzo and the marquee coming on at dusk.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F810\u002Fe2.webp","Foto: Sailko \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"title":200,"description":201,"imageUrl":202,"attribution":175},"Ride the steam train down to Arbaroba","Italian-built steam locomotives, some of them articulated Mallets, still work the top of the line that Italian engineers cut into the escarpment through thirty-odd tunnels and sixty-five bridges. The track below has decayed, so trains no longer reach Massawa; a chartered run drops to Arbaroba and back in about three hours, hooting through cuttings above a plunging valley.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F810\u002Fe3.webp",{"title":204,"description":205,"imageUrl":206,"attribution":175},"Take a macchiato under the Opera House arches","Climb the steps to Odoardo Cavagnari's 1918 theatre, where a colonnade of Romanesque arches faces the street beneath a painted loggia. The foyer is a café now and the auditorium is given over to rehearsals and local performances rather than Verdi. Order a macchiato, sit under the arcade and watch the avenue go by.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F810\u002Fe4.webp",{"title":208,"description":209,"imageUrl":210,"attribution":198},"Walk the palm-lined length of Harnet Avenue","The historic centre is small enough to cross in an afternoon, and the modernism is not in the monuments but in the ordinary blocks. There are porticoed pavements, Cubist apartment buildings, banks with Moorish arches, a petrol station shaped like a boat. Traffic is thin, the palms throw shade the whole way, and every corner turns up another facade.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F810\u002Fe5.webp",[212,217,222],{"boxType":213,"title":214,"body":215,"deepBody":216,"sourceNote":157},"history","The pillars that came down","The city authorities refused to let Pettazzi's wings stand without stone pillars beneath them. He built the pillars, then had them knocked away.","What happened next has gone hazy in the retelling: in some versions the engineer stood under the wings himself as the props were struck out, in others he held a gun on the foreman until they went. The concrete has held since 1938, through Second World War bombing and thirty years of war. Restored in 2003, the building is now Category I protected — no part of it may be altered.",{"boxType":218,"title":219,"body":220,"deepBody":221,"sourceNote":157},"culture","The fence you can no longer see","The elegant centre you walk through was drawn for Italians only. Eritreans needed a special pass to enter it, and the name of that fenced quarter survives in everyday speech.","The colonial plan zoned Asmara by race: the planned southern city, the Campo Cintato or \"fenced field\", was European, while Eritreans lived in the unplanned quarters of Arbate Asmera and Abbashawel outside it. Locals still call the main avenue Kombishtato, a Tigrinya wearing-down of Campo Cintato. UNESCO inscribed those indigenous quarters too — the segregation is part of what the listing documents.",{"boxType":223,"title":224,"body":225,"deepBody":226,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","A field of tanks on the edge of town","On the outskirts lies one of the largest scrapyards of war machinery anywhere — thousands of tanks, armoured trucks and cars stacked in rusting heaps.","Ethiopian forces hid their destroyed armour outside Asmara during the independence war, reckoning that wrecks left in the streets would only lift Eritrean morale. After the 1991 victory, Eritrean soldiers dragged in everything else they could find and piled it on the same ground. It has been left standing deliberately, as memory. Visitors need a permit — free, from the Ministry of Tourism.",[228,233,238,243,248,252],{"phenomenon":229,"peakMonths":230,"note":231,"requiresDarkSky":232,"sortOrder":90},"wildflower",[162],"As the kremti rains pull back in September, the plateau around Asmara comes up yellow with adey abeba, the Meskel daisy. Armfuls of it are bound onto the Damera bonfire lit in the city's September Square on the 27th.",false,{"phenomenon":234,"peakMonths":235,"note":236,"requiresDarkSky":232,"sortOrder":237},"chapter_peak",[90,95,163,164,130],"The dry season brings the city at its clearest. November skies are clear four days in five, the low sun rakes the Deco facades, and the passeggiata, the evening stroll, fills Harnet Avenue at dusk. Days are near 21-23°C, and nights drop toward 9°C by December.",50,{"phenomenon":239,"peakMonths":240,"note":241,"requiresDarkSky":232,"sortOrder":242},"chapter_edge",[100,105,110],"The warmest, dustiest stretch: highs near 24°C and the light hazing over as the azmera spring showers arrive to soften the ground before the big rains. The city walks as ever, just under a paler sky.",51,{"phenomenon":244,"peakMonths":245,"note":246,"requiresDarkSky":232,"sortOrder":247},"chapter_quiet",[115,120,125],"The kremti rains: afternoon storms most days and August overcast four times in five, the wettest month. Mornings often break bright and the plateau greens over. Nothing shuts — the espresso bars, cinemas and evening walk carry on between downpours.",52,{"phenomenon":234,"peakMonths":249,"note":250,"requiresDarkSky":232,"sortOrder":251},[162],"Days are near 23°C and the air is washed clean.",53,{"phenomenon":253,"peakMonths":254,"note":255,"requiresDarkSky":232,"sortOrder":256},"baseline",[],"The Modernist city is here every day of the year, with its cinemas, arcades, espresso bars and the passeggiata, the evening stroll along Harnet Avenue at dusk. It sits 2,325 m up, where days stay mild and nights cool.",99,[258,269,281,291,302],{"id":259,"publicId":260,"slug":261,"name":262,"shortDescription":263,"categoryId":135,"importance":115,"lng":264,"lat":265,"coverImageUrl":266,"country":153,"region":267,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":90,"distanceM":268,"kind":157,"cityGuideId":157},929,"bdab43c36d86","dahlak-archipelago","Dahlak Archipelago","More than 120 low coral islands in Eritrea's Red Sea, only three settled, with medieval gravestones, rain cisterns and vast seabird colonies.",40.0057665,15.6158389,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F929\u002Fcover.webp","Northern Red 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churning since 1906, climbed at night in the hottest place on Earth, where three plates pull apart.",40.66138889,13.60638889,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F99\u002Fcover.webp","Afar",266475.19970951,{"id":292,"publicId":293,"slug":294,"name":295,"shortDescription":296,"categoryId":55,"importance":100,"lng":297,"lat":298,"coverImageUrl":299,"country":278,"region":300,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":90,"distanceM":301,"kind":157,"cityGuideId":157},796,"57770cea0c4a","lalibela-rock-churches","Lalibela","Eleven medieval churches carved downward out of the red rock of the Ethiopian highlands as a New Jerusalem, still used by priests and pilgrims today.",39.0472,12.0306,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F796\u002Fcover.webp","Amhara Region, Lasta 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