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Until the city rebuilt its waterfront for the 1992 Olympics this shore carried rail track, workshops and beach restaurants built out over the water; breakwaters went in, and a bathing beach replaced a working one. Today it is one flat strip of pale sand, busiest in the middle of the day and loudest in high summer: volleyball, hand drums, vendors calling mojitos along the waterline, grilled-fish smoke off the terraces.\n\nThe neighbourhood behind it is far older. A grid of tight blocks was laid out in the 1750s on silt that had banked up behind the harbour wall, to rehouse people whose district was demolished for the citadel. The buildings were kept shallow so that every room could reach light and sea air. A sail-shaped hotel closes the view to the south-west and the masts of the Olympic marina mark the far end. 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That is what makes the middle of a July day hard.\ncrowds|**Keep walking northeast** — Barceloneta is the first sand you reach from the old town, so it takes the crush; ten minutes along the promenade the towels visibly thin out.\nfood|**The bomba belongs to the streets behind, not the promenade** — A fried potato ball stuffed with meat under fierce garlic alioli, credited to a back-street bar; eat it standing at the counter.\netiquette|**Cover up before you leave the sand** — Swimwear stays on the beach here; the streets behind are somebody's neighbourhood, and walking them half-dressed marks you out immediately.\nsafety|**Take turns in the water so someone always stays with the bags** — Bags go missing on this stretch quickly and quietly. 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Leave your things by the wall, get in, and turn to face east as the sun comes up out of the water. Regulars swim this end all year. You will be dry before the first parasol goes up.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F713\u002Fe-5223.webp","Ilia \u002F Unsplash License — Unsplash",{"title":197,"description":198,"imageUrl":199,"attribution":200},"Walk the whole strip at dusk","Start where the sail-shaped hotel blocks the view and walk northeast with the sea on your right. Stop at the four leaning iron cubes near the waterline, then keep going past the volleyball nets and the last chiringuito until the sand ends at the Olympic marina and Gehry's mesh fish.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F713\u002Fe-5224.webp","gdmoonkiller \u002F Pixabay Content License — Pixabay",{"title":202,"description":203,"imageUrl":204,"attribution":205},"Step into the narrow grid behind the promenade for vermut","Step off the promenade into the grid behind it: streets barely wide enough for two people to pass, laundry strung between balconies, a slot of blue at the end of each one. Find a bar with marble tables, order vermut before lunch, and let the neighbourhood's shopping carry on around you.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F713\u002Fe-5225.webp","Samuel Sweet \u002F Pexels License — Pexels",[207,212,217],{"boxType":208,"title":209,"body":210,"deepBody":211,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","Thousands lived on this sand before the parasols","Before the parasols, thousands of people lived on this shore in self-built lanes with no water and no drains.","The Somorrostro grew along this shore from the late 1800s: huts of board and reed, home to fishing families and newcomers from the south. Carmen Amaya, the century's most famous flamenco dancer, was born there. Storms wrecked it, and a final clearance in 1966 took the rest. In 2010 the city gave the name back to a stretch of this sand.",{"boxType":213,"title":214,"body":215,"deepBody":216,"sourceNote":150},"culture","Why four rusting cubes lean at the waterline","Most people walk past the leaning iron stack without stopping. It marks something that used to stand right here.","L'Estel Ferit — 'The Wounded Shooting Star' — was made by the German artist Rebecca Horn in 1992. Four iron cubes with small glazed windows lean into one another, widely read as an homage to the stacked beach shacks and restaurants then being demolished around it. Salt air keeps it rusting, and that colour is now part of the work.",{"boxType":218,"title":219,"body":220,"deepBody":221,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","The beach that arrives by dredger","Winter storms wash a lot of sand off this shore, so the city brings replacement sand in by pipe, barge and truck.","The 1992 works laid groynes and breakwaters to trap sediment drifting along the coast, then filled the bays behind them with material dredged from the sea floor. That fill keeps leaving, so it is replaced before the season. 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