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The ornament came off the ground it stands on: marigolds growing on the plot became ceramic tiles, and the leaf of a dwarf fan palm was cast over and over into the iron railing. Inside, the rooms are small and almost no surface is left plain — ivy, cherries and birds painted up the dining-room walls and across the ceiling, a smoking room roofed in gilded papier-mâché, patterned tile underfoot.\n\nGaudí was in his early thirties and barely known when he drew it, working from engravings and photographic plates of Mudéjar brickwork and Islamic tile he had never seen in life. He set the result on a narrow lane in Gràcia, then still a town of its own, where Barcelona families kept summer houses. 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Almost everyone walks past the seam without seeing it.\narchitecture|**Read it as a summer house, not a showpiece** — the shaded gallery in front of the dining room, the tiled surfaces, the thick brick: all of it answers a Barcelona August.",[163,164,165,166],"X_GKbYKfm4E","QkmUOT3qRIo","uJJpR81LJJQ","AD0FmEx3MFs","Europe\u002FMadrid","barcelona","4bca0eb03ed5","museum","Gràcia",{"gallery":173,"exps":191,"boxes":206,"seasons":222,"near":223,"peers":224},[174,176,179,182,185,188],{"url":153,"attribution":175},"Canaan \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":177,"attribution":178},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F724\u002Fg0-38f5.webp","Niquito otiuqiN \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":180,"attribution":181},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F724\u002Fg1-7583.webp","Davide Comunian \u002F Pexels",{"url":183,"attribution":184},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F724\u002Fg2-7fa6.webp","cstnow \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":186,"attribution":187},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F724\u002Fg3-8d88.webp","jorapa \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":189,"attribution":190},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F724\u002Fg-724G-0.webp","AXP Photography \u002F Pexels License — Pexels",[192,197,202],{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":196},"Read the facade in strips","The lane is too narrow to take the house in at once, so read it in strips. Start at the iron gate: the same fan-palm leaf, cast again and again, until your eye stops registering it. Then follow one vertical band of wall up through brick, tile and marigold to the turret, and step along and do it again.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F724\u002Fe-5236.webp","Canaan \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 — Wikimedia Commons",{"title":198,"description":199,"imageUrl":200,"attribution":201},"Walk the ground-floor rooms with your eyes up","In the dining room keep your eyes at picture-rail height and walk the whole perimeter before looking at anything else. Ivy and cherry branches climb the walls and cross onto the ceiling with birds worked in among them, some flat, some in relief. Then step into the small smoking room, stand under the middle of the ceiling and look straight up at the gilded papier-mâché cells hanging down in blue and gold, cell inside cell. Hold still: in the low light the depth only opens up once your eyes adjust.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F724\u002Fe-5237.webp","Pol Viladoms \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 — Wikimedia Commons",{"title":203,"description":204,"imageUrl":205,"attribution":201},"Finish at the top of the house","Save the top of the house for last. On the terrace the chimneys and the tiled turret come within arm's reach instead of the distant silhouette you saw from the street. Then look outward: later apartment blocks press in on every side, taller than the villa they grew up around, with almost nothing left of its garden.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F724\u002Fe-5239.webp",[207,212,217],{"boxType":208,"title":209,"body":210,"deepBody":211,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","The client who never made a tile","The man who paid for all this ceramic has carried the wrong job in guidebooks for most of a century.","Manel Vicens was an agent de canvi i borsa — a licensed currency and stock broker — who bought the plot in Gràcia for a summer house, not a brick and tile manufacturer. The factory story probably stuck because the facade is so relentlessly ceramic. The tiles are generally credited to Pujol i Bausis, a commercial works at Esplugues.",{"boxType":213,"title":214,"body":215,"deepBody":216,"sourceNote":150},"culture","Why there is no broken mosaic here","The broken-tile mosaic that most people associate with Gaudí appears nowhere on his first house. Every tile here is whole and square. The effect comes from arithmetic instead: the same few tiles are repeated and counted out in changing rhythms across the facade.","The chequerboard thins as it climbs, so the brick mass seems to shed weight near the sky, with bands of marigold tile stitching the storeys together. Trencadís — his mosaic of deliberately smashed tile — arrived only years later, on other buildings.",{"boxType":218,"title":219,"body":220,"deepBody":221,"sourceNote":150},"history","What the enlargement cost the house","Part of what you see was designed by another architect in the 1920s, when the house was enlarged. 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