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Cut fruit and juice crowd the Rambla end, priced for people passing. Deeper in the light drops and the fish hall opens at the centre, all ice, steel and shouted numbers. The back rows are the quiet trade: salt cod, cooked chickpeas sold by weight, offal laid out without apology. Small bar counters between the stalls cook for whoever got a stool.\n\nCooks still shop here early, and so do people buying one hake for lunch. For most of its life the market had no roof at all. Tables of meat stood beside a gate in the medieval wall, and for some six hundred years the trade was done in the open street. The city tried to tidy it: after a convent behind the stalls burned down, a formal square was laid out in its place, in the hope the traders would settle into something permanent. 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This side is porters, trolleys, crates and hosed-down floor, with nobody selling you anything. Wait there a while, then walk back in against the flow and see what you missed.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F665\u002Fe-5206.webp","pere prlpz \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 — Wikimedia Commons",{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":196},"Claim a stool at a mid-aisle counter","Claim a stool at one of the small bars buried in the aisles, early, before the lunch crush. Ignore the printed board and order whatever the cook already has on the plancha — fried eggs with baby squid, cuttlefish, whatever came off the ice that morning. Keep your elbows in.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F665\u002Fe-5207.webp","Mihai Vlasceanu \u002F Pexels License — Pexels",{"title":198,"description":199,"imageUrl":200,"attribution":201},"Watch salt cod being cut","Find the bacallaneria — white slabs sitting in shallow trays of running water. Watch the knife for a few minutes: loin, thin tail and belly all go to different dishes. Ask which piece is meant for esqueixada, the shredded raw-cod salad, and you will get an answer and a nod.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F665\u002Fe-5208.webp","Thutruongvn \u002F Pixabay Content License — Pixabay",[203,208,213],{"boxType":204,"title":205,"body":206,"deepBody":207,"sourceNote":150},"culture","Was there really a goat?","The name comes from a Catalan word for goat meat, and it stuck to this spot because medieval cities kept butchers and slaughter outside the wall.","Catalan lexicographers trace boqueria to boc, a male goat: a boqueria was a place where goat meat was sold. Butchers gathered at this gate because slaughter, blood and offal belonged outside the walls. The market's official name, taken from the convent that burned, is Mercat de Sant Josep — it survives on plaques and paperwork, and in almost nobody's speech.",{"boxType":209,"title":210,"body":211,"deepBody":212,"sourceNote":150},"history","Why are there Ionic columns in a fish market?","Look along the market's flanks and a neoclassical colonnade appears — older than the roof, and the leftover of a quite different plan.","The square drawn up after the fire, by the municipal architect Josep Mas i Vila, was meant to be civic: paving, a fountain, a ring of Ionic columns. Traders filled it within a generation. When the metal roof finally went up, the columns were simply built around, and stretches of them still stand at the market's edges.",{"boxType":209,"title":214,"body":215,"deepBody":216,"sourceNote":150},"Is any of this actually local?","Long before the first shutter goes up here, the day's real buying has already happened on the other side of the city.","Most stallholders restock at Mercabarna, the wholesale city beside the port, where fish landed on the Catalan coast sits next to crates shipped from far away. That is the honest picture: some of this is local and seasonal, much of it is not. 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