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Between 1919 and 1923 teams were sent into the Pyrenean valleys to strip paintings off the insides of village churches. The method is called strappo: cloth is glued to the surface and pulled, and the colour layer lifts away while the plaster stays behind. The apses were then rebuilt at full size inside the museum and the paint laid back onto the same curve. So you stand beneath the Christ of Sant Climent de Taüll, painted in 1123, at the height and in the shape it was made for.\n\nAn Italian restorer, Franco Steffanoni, was brought in to teach the technique to the Junta de Museus, the public body then assembling Barcelona's collections. The removals are still argued over, because the valleys lost paintings that had been in their churches for eight hundred years. The museum fills the Palau Nacional, put up on the flank of Montjuïc for the exposition of 1929, which is why it is far grander than a collection needs. Beyond the Romanesque rooms it runs on through Gothic altarpieces, baroque painting and rooms of modern Catalan art.","ES",[],"pace|**Do the Romanesque rooms first** — they are at the start of the route and they are the reason to come, and people who work through the whole building in order reach them with nothing left.\nreading|**Look for the almond shape** — the figure of Christ sits inside a pointed oval in nearly every apse here, and once you can see that frame the crowded rest of the painting organises itself around it.\naccess|**The hill is done by escalator** — outdoor escalators climb from the avenue below to the terrace, so the long ceremonial staircase in front of the palace is optional rather than obligatory.\ncrowds|**The free afternoons fill the apses** — Saturday from mid-afternoon and the first Sunday of the month cost nothing, and the Romanesque rooms are narrow enough that a group blocks a whole apse.",[163,164,165],"Wa8VW8H7HX8","svbRpw7FhB0","-g_qPwvNDQk","Europe\u002FMadrid","barcelona","4bca0eb03ed5","museum","Palau Nacional, Montjuïc (Sants-Montjuïc)",{"gallery":172,"exps":187,"boxes":202,"seasons":218,"near":219,"peers":220},[173,175,178,181,184],{"url":153,"attribution":174},"Rafa Esteve \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":176,"attribution":177},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1226\u002Fg0-74cf.webp","Didier Descouens \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":179,"attribution":180},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1226\u002Fg1-2634.webp","Kippelboy \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":182,"attribution":183},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1226\u002Fg2-46ac.webp","Emilio J. Rodríguez Posada \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":185,"attribution":186},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1226\u002Fg3-3eb1.webp","Jorge Franganillo \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[188,193,197],{"title":189,"description":190,"imageUrl":191,"attribution":192},"Step inside a rebuilt apse and find the seam","Walk into one of the reinstalled apses rather than looking at it from the doorway, and stop under the centre. The curve closes around you and the figure is above and slightly ahead, exactly where a twelfth-century congregation would have found it. Then get close to the edge. The plaster carrying the painting is not the original wall, and a fine seam marks where the modern shell meets the old surface.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1226\u002Fe0-6003.webp","Joe Mabel \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":194,"description":195,"imageUrl":196,"attribution":180},"Compare two Christs in the same room","The apses from different valleys hang within a few steps of each other. Pick two and look only at the faces and the hands. One painter drew hard black outlines and staring eyes, the next used softer modelling. These were separate workshops moving through the mountains, and the difference is visible in a minute.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1226\u002Fe1-629a.webp",{"title":198,"description":199,"imageUrl":200,"attribution":201},"Use the terrace on the way out","The doors at the front open onto the palace terrace above the fountain and the avenue. From here the whole axis runs straight down the hill and out across the city. Most people come out of the museum and turn straight down the steps without stopping.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1226\u002Fe2-2eeb.webp","Felix König \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[203,208,213],{"boxType":204,"title":205,"body":206,"deepBody":207,"sourceNote":150},"history","Why the paintings were taken down","The removals were a response to sales. Dealers were buying Romanesque apses out of Catalan churches, and one had already gone to Boston.","The apse of a church at Mur was sold and shipped to the United States around 1919, where it remains. The Junta de Museus decided that the only way to keep the rest was to take it first. Villages were paid, the paintings became public property, and a private trade that had run for years stopped almost at once.",{"boxType":209,"title":210,"body":211,"deepBody":212,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","What stayed on the wall at Taull","Strappo takes only the skin of paint. Everything below it stayed in the Pyrenees, and part of the original had soaked deeper than anyone realised.","A plaster copy was painted into the empty apse at Taull in the 1960s and slowly decayed. When it was removed, traces of the twelfth-century painting were found surviving in the layers underneath. The church now projects a reconstruction onto its own curved wall, so the image is in two places at once, in different forms.",{"boxType":214,"title":215,"body":216,"deepBody":217,"sourceNote":150},"culture","A public body that acted like a collector","The Junta de Museus was not a museum but a committee, formed by the city and the province to buy, dig and decide what the collections would hold.","It ran excavations, negotiated with parish councils, hired restorers from abroad and chose which apses came down first. The Romanesque campaign was its founding act and set the museum's shape long before there was a building to hold it. 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