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Brick mills, warehouses, workers' housing and free-standing chimneys stand all over the flat ground behind the beach, several hundred buildings left when the industry went in the 1960s and 1970s. When the city rezoned the area for technology and media firms around 2000, it did not clear them. Sheds were converted, facades kept, and glass offices went up in the gaps, so a single block can hold a nineteenth-century mill wall and a company headquarters.\n\nFrom the middle of the nineteenth century this ground filled with textile mills, chemical works and gasworks, and with streets of small houses for the people who worked in them. The quarter was called the Catalan Manchester while that meant something. Not all of the conversion worked: Can Ricart, the best-preserved complex of all, is protected, largely shut and partly derelict behind its gates. 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The shops on either side are hardware stores, bakeries and bars with tiled fronts. Keep going and the street ends at the beach, which is how the quarter has always been laid out: work behind, water in front.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1234\u002Fe0-a173.webp",{"title":190,"description":191,"imageUrl":192,"attribution":193},"Catch a mill wall against a glass office, then count the storeys","Walk the blocks between the rambla and the Diagonal and look for the joins. In several places a brick factory front has been kept and a modern building put directly behind or above it, so you can stand at one point and have two centuries of construction in the same view. Then stop on any block and count upwards: workers' housing here ran to two or three floors, the new offices run to eight or nine, and the mill sheds have none at all. Reading the skyline of one short street tells you which decade each plot changed hands.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1234\u002Fe1-7197.webp","Toniher \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":195,"description":196,"imageUrl":197,"attribution":198},"Read Can Ricart through its railings","The complex is closed, so go to the railings and look in: a clock tower, a chimney, ranges of low workshops around yards, some roofless. It is the most complete nineteenth-century factory left in the city, and seeing it half-abandoned tells you more about the quarter's argument with itself than any converted building does.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1234\u002Fe2-be29.webp","Victoriano Javier Tornel García from Barcelona, España \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[200,205,210],{"boxType":201,"title":202,"body":203,"deepBody":204,"sourceNote":150},"history","Why the factories came here","The ground was flat, empty and outside the city, and it had water. Barcelona put its dirtiest industry where the rules did not reach.","Until 1897 this was a separate municipality, so factories banned inside Barcelona could be built here legally. Steam engines needed water and space, the beach gave both, and a rail line ran along the shore. Within fifty years a plain of market gardens had become one of the most concentrated industrial districts in Spain.",{"boxType":206,"title":207,"body":208,"deepBody":209,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","A chimney with no factory","Dozens of brick chimneys stand alone here, protected in their own right, with the works they served demolished around them.","They were listed because a chimney is the one part of a steam-powered factory that cannot be adapted or reused, so it is the first thing to fall and the clearest marker of what stood there. A survey of Barcelona's surviving stacks found about half of them in this district. 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