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Elisenda de Montcada's tomb is set into the wall between the church and the cloister, with a face on each side. From the church she is a crowned queen of Aragon; from the cloister, a widow in a Poor Clare's habit with her hands together. Both portraits were cut while she was alive. She founded the house in 1327, a few months before the king died.\n\nThe cloister is three storeys high, which is rare, and almost nothing in it has been rebuilt. Small day cells open off the ground-floor walk, one to a nun. In one corner is the chapel of Sant Miquel, a room no bigger than a bedroom, painted between 1343 and 1346 by Ferrer Bassa for a single nun's private prayer. It holds the earliest Italian-influenced painting in Catalonia, and its detail has survived unusually well. From the ground the arcades stack three deep overhead, with sky at the top and no sound from the city below.","ES",[],"access|**Ask about the Sant Miquel chapel on arrival** — the paintings are kept under strict light control and the room may open only in short intervals, so do not build the visit around finding it lit.\npace|**Give it a slow hour** — the interest here is in small rooms rather than big spaces, and the day cells and the cloister only work if you stop in them rather than walking the circuit once.\ncrowds|**It stays empty because it is far** — the journey out and the walk uphill keep the numbers down, so this is the one large medieval interior in the city you can usually have to yourself.",[],"Europe\u002FMadrid","barcelona","4bca0eb03ed5","historic","Pedralbes (Les Corts \u002F Sarrià-Sant Gervasi boundary)",{"gallery":169,"exps":186,"boxes":201,"seasons":222,"near":223,"peers":224},[170,172,175,178,181,183],{"url":153,"attribution":171},"DagafeSQV \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":173,"attribution":174},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1232\u002Fg0-77d5.webp","José Antonio Gil Martínez from Vigo, Spain \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":176,"attribution":177},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1232\u002Fg1-3ecb.webp","Richard Mortel from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":179,"attribution":180},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1232\u002Fg2-70f8.webp","Joe Mabel \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":182,"attribution":177},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1232\u002Fg3-ccdb.webp",{"url":184,"attribution":185},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1232\u002Fg4-7aac.webp","Amontero \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[187,192,197],{"title":188,"description":189,"imageUrl":190,"attribution":191},"See the same tomb twice","Find the tomb from inside the church first, where the figure is crowned and dressed as a queen. Then go out into the cloister and look at the other side of the same wall. The same woman lies there in a nun's habit. Nothing else in the city states a person's two lives so plainly in stone.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1232\u002Fe0-abcd.webp","Tantarantana \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":196},"Circle the cloister at ground level, slowly","Take the ground gallery all the way round and look up at each corner: three tiers of arcading, palm and orange trees in the garth, a well in the middle. Then stop and listen. The traffic of the city does not reach here, and the loudest sound is usually birds in the enclosure.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1232\u002Fe1-25ab.webp","Marc Figueras: Oersted (let's talk) \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":198,"description":199,"imageUrl":200,"attribution":180},"Measure a day cell from its doorway","Look into one of the small rooms off the cloister and take in its size. There is space for a stool, a shelf and a window. This is where a nun spent the hours she was not in choir, alone, every day for decades, and the scale of the room is the clearest thing the monastery has to say.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1232\u002Fe2-7244.webp",[202,207,212,217],{"boxType":203,"title":204,"body":205,"deepBody":206,"sourceNote":150},"culture","What a day cell was for","The nuns slept in a shared dormitory but worked alone. Each had a small room off the cloister for the hours between services.","Reading, sewing, writing and private prayer happened there, in silence, within sight of the cloister but out of contact with it. The cells at Pedralbes survive with their fittings, which is unusual: most enclosed houses were emptied or rebuilt. They show how the rule divided a day into shared time and solitary time, hour by hour, for seven centuries.",{"boxType":208,"title":209,"body":210,"deepBody":211,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","Why the paint is still readable","Ferrer Bassa did not paint into wet plaster. He worked on a dry wall with oil-bound colour, which held far finer detail than fresco allows.","Fresco sets as the plaster dries and forces the painter to work fast in patches. Bassa could take his time, build up layers and model faces the way panel painters did, and he was copying Italian work he knew from Siena and Florence. The technique is more fragile, which is why the chapel is kept dark.",{"boxType":213,"title":214,"body":215,"deepBody":216,"sourceNote":150},"history","A queen who moved in next door","Elisenda never entered the order. She built a palace against the monastery wall and lived there for thirty-seven years after the king died.","Widowed young and without children, she had no place at court, so she made one here: founder, neighbour and patron at the same time, close enough to join the community's life and outside its enclosure. The palace is gone. Her double tomb, carved in her own lifetime, is the surviving record of that exact position.",{"boxType":218,"title":219,"body":220,"deepBody":221,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","The place is named after its stone","Pedralbes comes from the Latin for white stones, the pale rock quarried on this slope and used to build the monastery.","Documents of the period call the site petras albas. The same stone gives the church and the cloister their light grey-white colour, which is why the buildings look bleached beside the darker Montjuic sandstone used across most of the city. The name was in use before the monastery existed and described the ground, not the foundation.",[],[],[225,233,241,249,256,263,271,279,287,295,302,308],{"id":226,"name":227,"slug":228,"publicId":229,"coverImageUrl":230,"poiTheme":231,"neighborhood":232},639,"Gothic Quarter","barcelona-gothic-quarter","1359f4783633","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F639\u002Fcover-ba5a.webp","neighborhood","Barri Gòtic (Ciutat Vella)",{"id":234,"name":235,"slug":236,"publicId":237,"coverImageUrl":238,"poiTheme":239,"neighborhood":240},626,"Casa Batlló","barcelona-casa-batllo","f476889e83e7","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F626\u002Fcover-918b.webp","landmark","Eixample (Passeig de Gràcia)",{"id":242,"name":243,"slug":244,"publicId":245,"coverImageUrl":246,"poiTheme":247,"neighborhood":248},1226,"Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya 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