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Its centre is Plaça d'Orfila, where the old town hall stands, with a main street of low shopfronts running off it and a rambla of its own a few blocks away. The streets here work for the neighbourhood rather than for visitors. A few minutes north, the brick sheds of the Fabra i Coats thread mill, built in 1890 and 1905, are now a cultural complex.\n\nThread is what built the town. A spinning works begun in the 1840s grew into Fabra i Coats, one of the first large mills in Spain, and the population rose more than eightfold between 1860 and 1920. Barcelona swallowed the municipality in 1897. Residents formed a committee to reverse the annexation and lost in the administrative courts in 1902. Gràcia, another village taken the same way, turned bohemian; Sant Andreu stayed working-class. 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Barcelona took it over and went on using it. Stand with your back to the church, look at the front of the town hall, and the annexation turns into something you can see.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1343\u002Fe0-18ba.webp","Jordi Gili \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":192,"description":193,"imageUrl":194,"attribution":174},"Walk into the thread mill","You walk into the Fabra i Coats yard straight from the street, and the brick sheds around it are the original ones. Take the passage between them. What is going on changes from day to day: rehearsal rooms, an exhibition, a school playground, or nothing at all. A working factory yard was busy in the same unpredictable way.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1343\u002Fe1-a0ad.webp",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":199},"Come for the Tres Tombs, the horse and cart procession","Sant Andreu still runs its own processions, and the one to catch is the Tres Tombs, which goes through the middle of the district with horses and carts. Working animals and drivers in old dress pass down streets full of parked cars. 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