[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"categories-en":3,"dest-b1e3801e6516":144,"detail-extra-465":170,"travel-countries-en":270},[4,9,14,19,24,29,34,39,44,49,54,59,64,69,74,79,84,89,94,99,104,109,114,119,124,129,134,139],{"id":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"color":8},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":10,"slug":11,"name":12,"color":13},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":15,"slug":16,"name":17,"color":18},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":20,"slug":21,"name":22,"color":23},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":25,"slug":26,"name":27,"color":28},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":30,"slug":31,"name":32,"color":33},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":35,"slug":36,"name":37,"color":38},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":40,"slug":41,"name":42,"color":43},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":45,"slug":46,"name":47,"color":48},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":50,"slug":51,"name":52,"color":53},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":55,"slug":56,"name":57,"color":58},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":60,"slug":61,"name":62,"color":63},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":65,"slug":66,"name":67,"color":68},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":70,"slug":71,"name":72,"color":73},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":75,"slug":76,"name":77,"color":78},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":80,"slug":81,"name":82,"color":83},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":85,"slug":86,"name":87,"color":88},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":90,"slug":91,"name":92,"color":93},1,"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":95,"slug":96,"name":97,"color":98},2,"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":100,"slug":101,"name":102,"color":103},3,"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":105,"slug":106,"name":107,"color":108},4,"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":110,"slug":111,"name":112,"color":113},5,"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":115,"slug":116,"name":117,"color":118},6,"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":120,"slug":121,"name":122,"color":123},7,"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":125,"slug":126,"name":127,"color":128},8,"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":130,"slug":131,"name":132,"color":133},12,"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":135,"slug":136,"name":137,"color":138},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":140,"slug":141,"name":142,"color":143},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"id":145,"publicId":146,"slug":147,"name":148,"shortDescription":149,"categoryId":140,"importance":105,"lng":150,"lat":151,"coverImageUrl":152,"country":153,"region":154,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":155,"distanceM":-1,"kind":156,"cityGuideId":157,"description":158,"countryCode":159,"adminArea":157,"elevationM":160,"bestMonths":161,"tips":164,"howToGetThere":157,"youtubeIds":165,"timezone":157,"cityGuideSlug":157,"cityGuidePublicId":157,"cityGuideName":157,"poiTheme":157,"poiNeighborhood":157},465,"b1e3801e6516","bardenas-reales","Bardenas Reales","A Spanish clay badland with nobody living in it, cut into ravines and lone towers by rare cloudbursts, grazed each winter by Pyrenean sheep.",-1.5,42.18,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F465\u002Fcover.webp","Spain","Navarra",0,"nature",null,"The Bardenas Reales are a badland of clay and sandstone in the south of Navarra, in northern Spain, 42,000 hectares with nobody living in them, cut into ravines, mesas and lone towers by rare cloudbursts and grazed each winter by the sheep of the Pyrenees, and they are crossed on gravel tracks by bicycle or car in a landscape that looks like Arizona an hour from Pamplona. The Bardenas belong to no one and to twenty-two owners at once, nineteen towns, two Pyrenean valleys and a monastery holding the whole desert as common land since the Middle Ages, and every year around mid-September a rocket goes up at eight in the morning and the shepherds drive some 80,000 sheep through the gate in the fence known as El Paso, down from the Roncal and Salazar valleys to winter on the badlands, walking back to the mountains in June; the symbol of the park is Castildetierra, a fluted cone of clay standing alone on the flat that widens downward and carries a slab of hard sandstone on its head like a hat, which is what keeps it standing, and the long plateaus that wall in the Bardena Blanca have flanks grooved into vertical fluting like organ pipes.\n\nMarked tracks run for tens of kilometres across the flats, past the cabezos, the lone hills, and the gullies, hard-packed enough for a gravel bike, and the light is best early and late, when the clay goes gold and the shadows draw the ravines. Little grows, yet the Bardenas hold twenty-four species of bird of prey and some of the rarest steppe birds in Spain, great bustards, sandgrouse, stone-curlew and some 250 pairs of Dupont's lark, which gives itself away only by singing at dawn in spring. At the heart of the Bardena Blanca a slice of 2,244 hectares is not park at all but an air force bombing range, active since 1951, fenced and marked, with the jets coming in low over the clay. The Bardenas are a desert that a whole province owns together, and the sheep have the winter lease.","ES",400,[100,105,110,162,163],9,10,"access|**Rain shuts the tracks down** — wet clay turns into a wheel-swallowing paste, so check the park's notices before you drive, and keep to the marked itineraries at the 40 km\u002Fh limit.\nsafety|**Do not climb the cabezos** — Castildetierra is fenced off because its clay is fragile and the rock slab on top could shear away; look at it from the path below.\nmonths|**Spring and autumn are the kind months** — there is no shade anywhere in the Bardena Blanca, and the summer middle-of-day heat is punishing; carry far more water than you think you need.\nwildlife|**Some zones close in the nesting season** — this is a protected steppe-bird area, and access to parts of it is limited in spring so that bustards and larks can raise their young undisturbed.",[166,167,168,169],"RsP2GD83TxY","Nal-7I_kvuM","Kkse4svjKjI","cd-PZ3PK_M0",{"gallery":171,"exps":189,"boxes":206,"seasons":222,"near":256,"peers":269},[172,174,177,180,183,186],{"url":152,"attribution":173},"Foto: Ant°AM \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":175,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F465\u002Fg0.webp","Foto: Rafael García Luna \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":178,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F465\u002Fg1.webp","Foto: Dom rei hen \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":181,"attribution":182},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F465\u002Fg2-36072b.webp","Foto: A1AA1A \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":184,"attribution":185},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F465\u002Fg3-3955a4.webp","Foto: BirdingInSpain \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":187,"attribution":188},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F465\u002Fg4.webp","Foto: Wikimedia Commons \u002F CC BY-SA",[190,194,198,202],{"title":191,"description":192,"imageUrl":193,"attribution":173},"Walk out to Castildetierra","The park's symbol stands alone on the clay flat: a fluted cone that widens downwards and carries a slab of hard sandstone on its head like a hat. A short walk from the track brings you to the wooden fence at its foot. That is close enough to lose your sense of scale, and to see the cracks in the crown that the park has been sealing to stop it shearing away. Come for the last hour rather than the middle of the day. Low sun runs in sideways, the ridges show hard edges, the hollows fill with shadow, and the cierzo has usually dropped.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F465\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":195,"description":196,"imageUrl":197,"attribution":182},"Cycle the gravel tracks between the cabezos","Marked tracks run for tens of kilometres across the flats, past mesas, gullies and lone cabezos, hard-packed enough for a gravel bike or an ordinary car. Riding them is the way to feel the emptiness — wind, dust, and no shade at all between one horizon and the next.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F465\u002Fe3-a3353c.webp",{"title":199,"description":200,"imageUrl":201,"attribution":185},"Walk up to a fluted clay plateau","Follow one of the marked itineraries to the foot of the long plateaus that wall in the Bardena Blanca, their flanks grooved into vertical fluting like organ pipes. Stand at the base, especially after a wet spell, and you can trace the fresh channels the last cloudburst cut into the clay. Keep off the slope itself — the ground is soft and shears away easily.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F465\u002Fe4-a152c9.webp",{"title":203,"description":204,"imageUrl":205,"attribution":179},"Look for bustards over the empty steppe","Little grows here, yet the Bardenas hold twenty-four species of bird of prey and some of Spain's rarest steppe birds: great bustards, sandgrouse, stone-curlew. There are also around 250 pairs of the elusive Dupont's lark, which is far more often heard than seen. Scan from the tracks in the first hours after dawn, while the birds are active and the wind is still down.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F465\u002Fe5.webp",[207,212,217],{"boxType":208,"title":209,"body":210,"deepBody":211,"sourceNote":157},"history","A desert owned by twenty-two","The Bardenas belong to no one and to twenty-two owners at once: nineteen towns, two Pyrenean valleys and a monastery hold the whole desert as common land.","Their community, the Comunidad de Bardenas Reales, still runs all 41,845 hectares of it. The Roncal valley traces its grazing rights here to the ninth century, and Felipe V confirmed the arrangement in 1705; even today nobody may settle or own a plot — the desert is used, not lived in.",{"boxType":213,"title":214,"body":215,"deepBody":216,"sourceNote":157},"culture","The rocket at El Paso","Every September a rocket goes up at eight in the morning, and a dozen shepherds drive the year's flocks through the gate in the fence known as El Paso.","The sheep come down from the Roncal and Salazar valleys along old drove roads, roughly a week on foot. Some 80,000 to 85,000 of them then spread across the badlands for autumn and winter, before walking back to the Pyrenees in June. Carcastillo marks the arrival with a festival of migas and lamb.",{"boxType":218,"title":219,"body":220,"deepBody":221,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","The bombing range in the middle","A 2,244-hectare slice at the heart of the Bardena Blanca is not park at all: it is an air force gunnery and bombing range, active since 1951.","The polígono de tiro was deliberately cut out of the natural park's boundary when the park was declared. The state leases the ground from the community in ten-year terms, renewed since 2008, and local opposition to it goes back decades. Visitors are kept well outside the perimeter fence.",[223,228,232,238,243,247,251],{"phenomenon":224,"peakMonths":225,"note":226,"requiresDarkSky":227,"sortOrder":90},"transhumance",[162],"Around mid-September some 80,000 sheep are walked down from the Roncal and Salazar valleys through the El Paso gate to winter on the badlands, returning to the Pyrenees in June.",false,{"phenomenon":229,"peakMonths":230,"note":231,"requiresDarkSky":227,"sortOrder":95},"birds",[100,105,110],"Spring is when the steppe birds display and nest: great bustards, sandgrouse and roughly 250 pairs of the elusive Dupont's lark, which gives itself away by singing at dawn.",{"phenomenon":233,"peakMonths":234,"note":236,"requiresDarkSky":227,"sortOrder":237},"chapter_quiet",[90,95,235,130],11,"Cold, dry and near-empty: highs of just 10–14°C and hard overnight frosts, with the wintering flocks scattered over the clay. The park opens at 8am year-round, but rain shuts the tracks. From 5 February the cliff areas where birds of prey nest start to close.",50,{"phenomenon":239,"peakMonths":240,"note":241,"requiresDarkSky":227,"sortOrder":242},"chapter_peak",[100,105,110],"The gentlest season, with mild days of 16–23°C. The cliff sanctuaries for birds of prey, La Ralla and Sanchicorrota, stay closed to protect them.",51,{"phenomenon":233,"peakMonths":244,"note":245,"requiresDarkSky":227,"sortOrder":246},[115,120,125],"Heat is all that is happening: highs of 28–31°C, up to 39–41°C at their worst, and no shade anywhere in the Bardena Blanca. Only dawn and dusk are bearable. The flocks are back in the Pyrenees, and the sanctuaries for birds of prey stay shut into August.",52,{"phenomenon":239,"peakMonths":248,"note":249,"requiresDarkSky":227,"sortOrder":250},[162,163],"The other kind season, and the big one: around mid-September the Sanmiguelada brings some 80,000 sheep down the drove roads from Roncal and Salazar to winter here. Mild 21–26°C days, low gold light on the cabezos, and the clay at its most photogenic.",53,{"phenomenon":252,"peakMonths":253,"note":254,"requiresDarkSky":227,"sortOrder":255},"baseline",[],"The cabezos, the isolated clay hills, along with the ravines and the pale clay, are here every day of the year. What changes is the heat, the light, the wintering flocks and the nesting birds. Rain can shut the tracks in any season.",99,[257],{"id":258,"publicId":259,"slug":260,"name":261,"shortDescription":262,"categoryId":95,"importance":105,"lng":263,"lat":264,"coverImageUrl":265,"country":266,"region":267,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":155,"distanceM":268,"kind":157,"cityGuideId":157},540,"e4fe81d43134","estanys-de-tristaina","Tristaina Lakes (Estanys de Tristaina)","Three glacial lakes stacked on a rock staircase at 2,300 metres in Andorra, spilling one into the next, and visible together only from the ridge.",1.4419,42.63889,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F540\u002Fcover.webp","Andorra","Ordino, 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