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The tests began with Operation Crossroads, which sank a fleet of captured and surplus warships anchored in the lagoon as targets, and ended with the hydrogen bombs, among them Castle Bravo in 1954, expected to yield six megatons and delivering fifteen, the largest the United States ever fired, whose fallout poisoned the neighbouring atolls and a Japanese fishing boat; the swimsuit was named four days after the first bomb, by a Paris designer betting on an explosive reaction. The ships are the reason to come: the carrier USS Saratoga stands upright with her flight deck at 27 metres and aircraft still parked in the hangar below, and the Japanese battleship Nagato, flagship of the fleet that attacked Pearl Harbor, lies upside down nearby, most of the wrecks around fifty metres down.\n\nThe islands are safe to walk and the sea to swim, but the soil is not, and the palms replanted over the evacuated village carry the one thing that must not be eaten, since the coconuts concentrate the caesium in the ground; reinforced bunkers built to shelter cameras and instruments still stand among the palms with walls a metre thick and floors open to the sky. Around seventy percent of the coral species recorded before the tests have returned to the reef, and big colonies now grow inside the Bravo crater itself, two kilometres across. The atoll is reached by liveaboard from Kwajalein for the diving, with visibility past thirty metres and often nearer fifty. Bikini is a lagoon that absorbed the bomb, and the fleet it sank is the visit.","MH",[110,115,120,125,161,162],9,10,"permit|**Liveaboards are the only way in** — a few expeditions run each year on one boat, and nothing is guaranteed: diving here shut down completely in 2008 and took years to come back.\naccess|**Kwajalein is a US Army base**, and you transit it to reach the boat — clearance letters go through the operator well before you fly, so nothing here can be improvised on arrival.\nsafety|**Everything but the Saratoga's superstructure is decompression diving** — most of the fleet lies near 50 metres, and operators expect technical training and full gas redundancy before you board.\nwildlife|**Grey reef sharks turn up on almost every dive**, patrolling the wrecks and the passes. They are unfed and simply curious; hold your line, let them make the first pass, and they lose interest.\ncrowds|**You will not share the water with anyone** — the atoll is uninhabited apart from its caretakers, so the wrecks, the reef and the beaches belong to your boat alone.",[165,166,167,168],"zri2knpOSqo","FDwmJuMwu4Q","_twf7RDJTzg","y7qUa0tBmxk",{"gallery":170,"exps":183,"boxes":199,"seasons":215,"near":237,"peers":238},[171,173,175,177,179,181],{"url":152,"attribution":172},"Foto: Ron Van Oers \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 IGO (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":174,"attribution":172},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F771\u002Fg0.webp",{"url":176,"attribution":172},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F771\u002Fg1.webp",{"url":178,"attribution":172},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F771\u002Fg2.webp",{"url":180,"attribution":172},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F771\u002Fg3.webp",{"url":182,"attribution":172},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F771\u002Fg4.webp",[184,187,191,195],{"title":185,"description":186,"imageUrl":157,"attribution":157},"Drop onto the flight deck of the USS Saratoga","The carrier stands upright with her deck at 27 metres, wide enough to lose your buddy on, and aircraft still parked in the hangar below. Follow the deck forward and the bow disappears into blue — she is 270 metres long, and no dive gives you all of her at once.",{"title":188,"description":189,"imageUrl":190,"attribution":172},"Swim in the lagoon that absorbed 23 detonations","The lagoon that absorbed Castle Bravo, the 15-megaton bomb fired here in 1954, is warm, clear and completely ordinary to swim in today. Its radiation washed out into the Pacific decades ago, while the land stayed contaminated. Swimming is unrestricted; it is the beach behind you, and everything growing on it, that is not.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F771\u002Fe3.webp",{"title":192,"description":193,"imageUrl":194,"attribution":172},"Walk beaches that see a few dozen people a year","The palms behind the sand were replanted over an evacuated village, and the fruit above your head is the one thing here you must not touch. The sand runs unmarked in both directions, and the tide wipes your prints before anyone follows them.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F771\u002Fe4.webp",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":172},"Step inside the concrete bunkers that watched the bombs","Reinforced bunkers built to shelter cameras and instruments still stand among the palms, walls a metre thick, floors open to the sky. They were made to survive what happened here, and they are the only structures on the atoll that did.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F771\u002Fe5.webp",[200,205,210],{"boxType":201,"title":202,"body":203,"deepBody":204,"sourceNote":157},"history","The bomb that ran away","Castle Bravo was expected to yield about six megatons. It gave fifteen — the worst radiological accident in American history, and nobody on the firing crew saw it coming.","Physicists had written off the lithium-7 in the fuel as inert; it was not, and the weapon burned far hotter than planned. Fallout drifted east over Rongelap and Utirik and dusted the Japanese fishing boat Daigo Fukuryū Maru, whose radio operator later died. The word \"fallout\" entered everyday language that spring.",{"boxType":206,"title":207,"body":208,"deepBody":209,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","The swimsuit was named four days later","Louis Réard unveiled his two-piece in Paris on 5 July 1946, four days after the first bomb fell on Bikini, and named it after the atoll — betting the reaction would be as explosive.","A rival designer had just called his own two-piece the \"Atome\". No Paris model would wear Réard's, so he hired a nude dancer, Micheline Bernardini, to show it. The Marshallese name for the atoll is Pikinni; the people it belongs to were already living in exile when the word went global.",{"boxType":211,"title":212,"body":213,"deepBody":214,"sourceNote":157},"wildlife","The reef that came back","Around 70% of the coral species recorded before the tests have returned to Bikini's reef, and big colonies now grow inside the Bravo crater itself.","The corals living in the crater carry generations of radiation exposure and appear to shrug it off, so scientists sample them for clues about how cells resist radiation-driven cancer. The reef teems with fish and sharks — the land above it is the part that stayed poisoned.",[216,221,227,232],{"phenomenon":217,"peakMonths":218,"note":219,"requiresDarkSky":220,"sortOrder":90},"prime",[110,115,120,125,161,162],"Visibility over the sunken fleet runs past 30 metres through these months and often nearer 50, with the water at 27-29°C. Most of the ships lie around 50 metres down, so that clarity is what makes them readable at all.",false,{"phenomenon":222,"peakMonths":223,"note":225,"requiresDarkSky":220,"sortOrder":226},"chapter_closed",[90,95,100,105,224,130],11,"From November the northeast trades and cyclone-season chop shut the open crossing; the liveaboards relocate to Truk Lagoon, and with the atoll uninhabited but for its caretakers there is no other way in. The season's exact edges shift with the wind each year.",50,{"phenomenon":228,"peakMonths":229,"note":230,"requiresDarkSky":220,"sortOrder":231},"chapter_peak",[110,115,120,125,161,162],"The only months anyone reaches Bikini. Liveaboards make the 24-to-30-hour crossing from Kwajalein once the northeast trades fade and the open sea settles; outside this window there is no route in at all.",51,{"phenomenon":233,"peakMonths":234,"note":235,"requiresDarkSky":220,"sortOrder":236},"baseline",[],"The ghost fleet, the recovered reef and the empty beaches are here every month; only the crossing and the diving are 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