[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"categories-en":3,"dest-da03ab8548a0":144,"detail-extra-489":170,"travel-countries-en":272},[4,9,14,19,24,29,34,39,44,49,54,59,64,69,74,79,84,89,94,99,104,109,114,119,124,129,134,139],{"id":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"color":8},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":10,"slug":11,"name":12,"color":13},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":15,"slug":16,"name":17,"color":18},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":20,"slug":21,"name":22,"color":23},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":25,"slug":26,"name":27,"color":28},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":30,"slug":31,"name":32,"color":33},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":35,"slug":36,"name":37,"color":38},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":40,"slug":41,"name":42,"color":43},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":45,"slug":46,"name":47,"color":48},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":50,"slug":51,"name":52,"color":53},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":55,"slug":56,"name":57,"color":58},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":60,"slug":61,"name":62,"color":63},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":65,"slug":66,"name":67,"color":68},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":70,"slug":71,"name":72,"color":73},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":75,"slug":76,"name":77,"color":78},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":80,"slug":81,"name":82,"color":83},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":85,"slug":86,"name":87,"color":88},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":90,"slug":91,"name":92,"color":93},1,"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":95,"slug":96,"name":97,"color":98},2,"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":100,"slug":101,"name":102,"color":103},3,"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":105,"slug":106,"name":107,"color":108},4,"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":110,"slug":111,"name":112,"color":113},5,"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":115,"slug":116,"name":117,"color":118},6,"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":120,"slug":121,"name":122,"color":123},7,"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":125,"slug":126,"name":127,"color":128},8,"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":130,"slug":131,"name":132,"color":133},12,"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":135,"slug":136,"name":137,"color":138},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":140,"slug":141,"name":142,"color":143},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"id":145,"publicId":146,"slug":147,"name":148,"shortDescription":149,"categoryId":100,"importance":110,"lng":150,"lat":151,"coverImageUrl":152,"country":153,"region":154,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":155,"distanceM":-1,"kind":156,"cityGuideId":157,"description":158,"countryCode":159,"adminArea":157,"elevationM":155,"bestMonths":160,"tips":164,"howToGetThere":157,"youtubeIds":165,"timezone":157,"cityGuideSlug":157,"cityGuidePublicId":157,"cityGuideName":157,"poiTheme":157,"poiNeighborhood":157},489,"da03ab8548a0","cabo-polonio","Cabo Polonio","A Uruguayan cape of dunes with no road and no mains power, only a lighthouse, 130 residents and a seal colony roaring on rocks offshore.",-53.7892,-34.3975,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fcover.webp","Uruguay","Rocha",0,"nature",null,"Cabo Polonio is a cape of dunes on the Atlantic coast of Uruguay, in the Rocha department, with no road, no mains power and no running water, only a lighthouse of 1881, about 130 residents in shacks called ranchos and a colony of seals roaring on the rocks offshore, and it is reached by trucks that drive over the sand from the highway, an hour of dunes and beach, into a village lit by candles at night. The cape is named for a shipwreck, the Polonio, lost here in 1735, and the lighthouse warns of the rocks that took it, climbed by 132 narrow steps for the view over the dunes, the two beaches and the islets; the rocks under the lighthouse put the visitor as close to the seals as anyone gets from land, with two species sharing the islets, the small South American fur seal and the far bigger sea lion, half of Uruguay's seals on three rocks, their roaring carried on the wind, and binoculars do the rest. The fishermen haul their wooden boats up the beach with no harbour and gut the catch on the sand, and the shacks sell it grilled.\n\nOnce the last candles go out there is nothing to compete with the sky, no street lamps and no glow on any horizon, and from May to August the core of the Milky Way stands almost overhead around midnight, the darkest coast of the country. Southern right whales move along the shore between July and October on their run between Península Valdés and southern Brazil, often only a few hundred metres out, with the tall V-shaped blow giving them away, and the dunes behind the village are a national park where the trucks cross. The village fills in January with Uruguayans who come for the nothing, and empties in winter to the fishermen and the hippies who stayed. Cabo Polonio is a cape the grid never reached, and the seals and the dark are the reason.","UY",[90,95,100,105,110,115,120,125,161,162,163,130],9,10,11,"access|**Private cars stop at the terminal on Route 10** — from there it is an open 4x4 truck across seven kilometres of sand and scrub, or a three-hour walk in from Valizas.\nsafety|**Nothing here plugs in** — there is no grid, no cash machine and no street lighting, so arrive with cash, a charged power bank and a torch you can walk the dunes by.\nwildlife|**The seals are out on the islets, not on the beach** — the rocks below the lighthouse get you closest, and in December and January the colony is thick with newborn pups.\nsky|**Walk past the last rancho and give your eyes twenty minutes** — on a moonless night the only light left is the lighthouse, flashing once every twelve seconds.\ncrowds|**January turns a village of 130 into a town of thousands** — for empty dunes with the place still awake, come in the shoulder weeks of November or March.",[166,167,168,169],"P1Fo_icLRec","l2laevwl4Jk","YK5vd64CtIE","pD23fioJjrM",{"gallery":171,"exps":189,"boxes":210,"seasons":221,"near":259,"peers":271},[172,174,177,180,183,186],{"url":152,"attribution":173},"Foto: Paulo Kopzinski \u002F Unsplash",{"url":175,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fg0.webp","Foto: Julio Clavijo Ferraro \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":178,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fg1.webp","Foto: Paulina Arocena Viroga \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":181,"attribution":182},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fg2.webp","Foto: Marcelo Campi \u002F CC BY-SA 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":184,"attribution":185},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fg3.webp","Foto: Tania Fernández Cenazzi \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":187,"attribution":188},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fg4.webp","Foto: Ezequiel Barreiro \u002F Unsplash",[190,194,198,202,206],{"title":191,"description":192,"imageUrl":193,"attribution":185},"Cross the dunes to reach the cape","There is no road, so the trucks drive on sand. You stand in the open bed for seven kilometres of dune, scrub and shallow water, hanging on as the chassis pitches, until the last ridge drops away and the lighthouse arrives all at once. The old way in is on foot from Valizas, three hours over open dunes.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":195,"description":196,"imageUrl":197,"attribution":179},"Watch the seal colony from the lighthouse rocks","The rocks under the lighthouse put you as close to the islets as anyone gets from land, and binoculars do the rest. Hundreds of animals haul out on Isla Rasa and its neighbours, the three low rocks Uruguayans call the Islas de Torres. The two species sort themselves out once you look: fur seals small, dark and pointed in the face, sea lion bulls twice the size with a heavy mane.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fe2.webp",{"title":199,"description":200,"imageUrl":201,"attribution":188},"Climb the 132 steps of the 1881 lighthouse","The stair inside the tower is narrow, steep and worth it. From the balcony 40 metres above the sea you finally read the shape of the place: a granite point, the seal islets, the two beaches on either flank, and the dune field running off to the horizon.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fe3.webp",{"title":203,"description":204,"imageUrl":205,"attribution":176},"Wait for the ranchos to blow out their candles","Once the last candles go out there is nothing left to compete with the sky — no street lamps, no glow on any horizon. Walk onto the sand and the Southern Cross and the Magellanic Clouds come up as sharply as they would in a desert, while the beam wheels silently overhead.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fe4.webp",{"title":207,"description":208,"imageUrl":209,"attribution":182},"Eat the catch where the boats land on the sand","With no harbour, the fishermen simply haul their wooden boats up the beach and gut the catch there. The village kitchens cook whatever came in that morning — brótola, corvina, black mussels prised off the rocks — and the families serving it descend from the sealers who founded this place.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fe5.webp",[211,216],{"boxType":212,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":157},"history","The captain who gave the cape its name","The cape is named for a shipwreck. In 1753 a Spanish ship grounded on these rocks under an Italian captain, Joseph Poloni — and all 316 people aboard survived.","Her full name — Nuestra Señora del Rosario, Señor San José y las Ánimas — was far too long for daily use, so people simply called her Poloni's ship. By 1760 ox-carts heading east were recording that they were going to Poloni's place. At least eighteen wrecks lie off this coast, the worst the Brazilian warship Solimões, which went down in 1892 with 123 men.",{"boxType":217,"title":218,"body":219,"deepBody":220,"sourceNote":157},"wildlife","Half of Uruguay's seals on three rocks","Two species share the islets: the small South American fur seal and the far bigger South American sea lion. Between them the rocks hold close to half of Uruguay's population of both.","Isla Rasa, Isla Encantada and El Islote make up one of only two breeding grounds in the country. Fur seals pup from late November and sea lions through December and January, when bulls hold harems of four to nine females. The same rocks were a killing ground until 1991, when Uruguay finally banned commercial sealing; the colony has been growing ever since.",[222,227,232,237,242,246,250,254],{"phenomenon":223,"peakMonths":224,"note":225,"requiresDarkSky":226,"sortOrder":90},"milkyway",[110,115,120,125],"No street lighting and no power grid anywhere on the cape, so the darkness is real: from May to August the Milky Way's core stands almost overhead around midnight, the highest it gets all year.",true,{"phenomenon":228,"peakMonths":229,"note":230,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":95},"whales",[120,125,161,162],"Southern right whales move along the coast between July and October on their run between Península Valdés and southern Brazil, often only a few hundred metres out; the tall V-shaped blow usually gives them away first.",false,{"phenomenon":233,"peakMonths":234,"note":235,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":236},"chapter_peak",[90,95,130],"The warm, alive season: the sea climbs to 21-24C and peaks in late January, sea-lion pups crowd the islets, and every rancho and beach bar is open. January alone turns the village of 130 into a town of thousands.",50,{"phenomenon":238,"peakMonths":239,"note":240,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":241},"chapter_edge",[100,105],"Autumn shoulder: the sea holds its swimming warmth near 20C into April, the January crush is gone, and the dunes are calm and half-empty - the 4x4 trucks still grind in daily across the sand.",51,{"phenomenon":238,"peakMonths":243,"note":244,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":245},[110,115],"Early winter: the water slides into the low teens, most visitors have gone, and over the unlit dunes the Milky Way's core climbs high near midnight - the darkest skies of the year, before the whales arrive.",52,{"phenomenon":233,"peakMonths":247,"note":248,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":249},[120,125,161,162],"The wild season: southern right whales pass a few hundred metres off the lighthouse rocks from July to October, the dark-sky core overhead through August. It is cold and the cape all but shuts down, though a handful of places keep going and the ~130 residents remain.",53,{"phenomenon":238,"peakMonths":251,"note":252,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":253},[163],"Spring shoulder season: the whales are tailing off, the sea is still cool at about 16°C, and the summer crowds have not arrived. The dunes are empty and the ranchos are reopening.",54,{"phenomenon":255,"peakMonths":256,"note":257,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":258},"baseline",[],"The islet seal colony, the dunes and the 1881 lighthouse — the cape's one mains-wired building — stand every day; the warm swimmable sea, the pups, the whales and the summer crowds are all seasonal.",99,[260],{"id":261,"publicId":262,"slug":263,"name":264,"shortDescription":265,"categoryId":115,"importance":110,"lng":266,"lat":267,"coverImageUrl":268,"country":153,"region":269,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":155,"distanceM":270,"kind":157,"cityGuideId":157},840,"44eab4dd27f7","quebrada-de-los-cuervos-uruguay","Quebrada de los Cuervos","A hundred-metre gorge sunk without warning into Uruguay's open grassland, its sheltered floor holding subtropical forest at its southern limit, vultures nesting on its cliffs.",-54.45694,-32.9275,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F840\u002Fcover.webp","Treinta y 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