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The sand is white because the island is, since Santo is a block of old reef limestone hoisted out of the sea, and the bubbles are volcanic gas working up through the coral sand, felt on the falling tide as the water starts to prickle and bubble, the trick that gave the beach its name; the bay is barely 350 metres of coral-white sand from one forested headland to the other, walked in five minutes, with a wide middle of clean empty sand and the life gathered at the rocky southern end, where the bommies hold the reef fish and the snorkelling. The southeast trades blow steadily from May to October and the bay sits in their lee, so the shallows stay flat and clear while the exposed side of the island chops up.\n\nForeigners cannot own a square metre of Vanuatu, only lease it, and the beach belongs to the Hog Harbour landholders, whose kitchens set back on the grass serve grilled fish, fruit and a coconut opened in front of the visitor rather than a concession, with the cruise ships anchoring off the bay a few days a month and the beach empty the rest. Santo is also the island of the SS President Coolidge, a troopship sunk in 1942 that is the largest wreck in the world dived from the shore, and of the blue holes, springs of blue fresh water in the forest, so the beach is one stop on a day around the north of the island from Luganville. Champagne Beach is a beach that fizzes, and the village that owns it is the host.","VU",[110,115,120,125,161,162,163,130],9,10,11,"timing|**Come at low tide for the fizz** — the bubbles only show as the water pulls back off the sand, and they are shy enough that many visitors never spot one.\ncrowds|**Check the cruise schedule before you fix a date** — when a ship anchors off, tenders land and around thirty market stalls go up. On other days you may share the sand with almost nobody.\naccess|**You are stepping onto custom-owned land** — the Hog Harbour families hold this beach under kastom title and collect a fee at the gate, which is how the village earns its living from it.",[166,167],"ATyupyU741c","6sO23ELjOeQ",{"gallery":169,"exps":186,"boxes":205,"seasons":216,"near":242,"peers":243},[170,172,175,178,181,183],{"url":152,"attribution":171},"Foto: Jae Lee (Wikimedia Commons, public domain)",{"url":173,"attribution":174},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F808\u002Fg-add-1i1jy.webp","Foto: Jae Lee, Bkj1000 \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":176,"attribution":177},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F808\u002Fg-add-6vo6e.webp","Foto: Jae Lee \u002F Public domain (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":179,"attribution":180},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F808\u002Fg-add-450ri.webp","\"Champagne Beach Espiritu Santo\" by Simon_sees · CC BY 2.0 (creativecommons.org\u002Flicenses\u002Fby\u002F2.0)",{"url":182,"attribution":180},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F808\u002Fg-add-5a1bi.webp",{"url":184,"attribution":185},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F808\u002Fg-add-4d2yg.webp","\"Champagne beach, Vanuatu 2014\" by lin padgham · CC BY 2.0 (creativecommons.org\u002Flicenses\u002Fby\u002F2.0)",[187,192,196,201],{"title":188,"description":189,"imageUrl":190,"attribution":191},"Stand in the shallows as the tide drops","This is the beach's own trick, and it needs the falling tide: gas works its way up through the sand and the water around your ankles starts to prickle and bubble. It is faint, it comes and goes, and catching it is largely a matter of standing still and paying attention.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F808\u002Fe1.webp","Foto: Simon_sees \u002F CC BY 2.0 (Flickr)",{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":191},"Snorkel the bommies in the southern corner","The wide middle of the bay is clean, empty sand, so the life is all gathered at the rocky southern end. Swim out to the coral heads there for reef fish in numbers and, now and then, a turtle. Bring your own mask — nothing is hired on the sand.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F808\u002Fe2.webp",{"title":197,"description":198,"imageUrl":199,"attribution":200},"Walk the whole crescent in five minutes","Champagne Beach is smaller than its fame suggests: barely 350 metres of coral-white sand from one forested headland to the other. Come at first light, before the day's vehicles arrive from Luganville, and the walk end to end is yours, with the water at its stillest and the light low over the headland.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F808\u002Fe3.webp","Foto: lin padgham \u002F CC BY 2.0 (Flickr)",{"title":202,"description":203,"imageUrl":204,"attribution":200},"Buy lunch from the family that owns the beach","The stalls and kitchens set back on the grass are run by the Hog Harbour landholders, not a concession — grilled fish, fruit, a coconut opened in front of you. Together with the gate fee, it is what the village earns from the beach, and it is worth the few extra vatu.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F808\u002Fe4.webp",[206,211],{"boxType":207,"title":208,"body":209,"deepBody":210,"sourceNote":157},"geology","An island hoisted out of the sea","The sand is white because the island is. Espiritu Santo is largely an old coral reef levered into the air — former seabed, now hills.","Santo sits on an arc where one plate grinds beneath another and lifts the seabed with it. Raised reef terraces step across the island, and uplift reaches around six millimetres a year on the far south-west coast, near the plate boundary. Rain sinks through that porous limestone and resurfaces as the springs and blue holes Santo is known for — and, on one reading, as the bubbles at this beach's eastern end.",{"boxType":212,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":157},"culture","Nobody can buy Vanuatu","Foreigners cannot own a square metre of this country — they can only lease it. Vanuatu gave all of its land back the day it was born.","The 1980 constitution declares that all land belongs to the indigenous custom owners and their descendants. Only ni-Vanuatu holding land by custom own it outright; outsiders take leases, 75 years being a common rural term. So the country's most photographed beach has landlords rather than rangers — which is why the fee and the arrangements at the gate can change from one year to the next.",[217,222,227,232,237],{"phenomenon":218,"peakMonths":219,"note":220,"requiresDarkSky":221,"sortOrder":90},"prime",[110,115,120,125,161,162],"The south-east trades blow steadily from May to October, and this north-east-facing bay sits in their lee: the shallows stay flat and clear while the exposed side of Santo chops up. The wet season brings runoff and cyclone risk.",false,{"phenomenon":223,"peakMonths":224,"note":225,"requiresDarkSky":221,"sortOrder":226},"chapter_quiet",[90,95,100,105],"January to April is the wettest, most cyclone-prone stretch — March peaks at over 300mm — and river runoff often clouds the water. Nothing seasonally shuts, though: the custom-land gate collects its fee year-round and cruise ships keep calling.",50,{"phenomenon":228,"peakMonths":229,"note":230,"requiresDarkSky":221,"sortOrder":231},"chapter_peak",[110,115,120,125,161,162],"May to October the south-east trades hold steady, and this bay, tucked in their lee, lies flat and clear enough to read the sand far out. It is the driest, coolest stretch — August the driest of all — with the sea near 27°C.",51,{"phenomenon":233,"peakMonths":234,"note":235,"requiresDarkSky":221,"sortOrder":236},"chapter_edge",[163,130],"November and December open the wet season: humidity and afternoon showers build, the sea warms toward 29°C, and runoff after rain can cloud the shallows. Cyclone season begins in November, though the beach itself stays open and cruise ships still call.",52,{"phenomenon":238,"peakMonths":239,"note":240,"requiresDarkSky":221,"sortOrder":241},"baseline",[],"The white sand crescent, the coral bommies and the low-tide fizz are here all year, and the custom-land gate collects its fee year-round; the water's clarity, warmth and cyclone risk shift with the 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