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The riverfront is the show. From May to October, as the interior dries, the herds walk down to the river every afternoon, hundreds of elephants at a time crossing the floodplain, wading and swimming across the Chobe to feed on the grass of Namibia's Caprivi Strip on the far bank and swimming back, a daily commute between two countries with the calves holding their mothers' tails; from a low open boat you sit level with the water among yawning hippos, crocodiles hauled up on the sandbars, buffalo in thousands and elephants drinking a few metres from the bow. The light at dusk on the river, with the herds silhouetted against it, is the reason the boats go out twice a day.\n\nThe interior is the other park. Sand tracks run inland at first light, when lions, leopards and the rare African wild dog are still moving from the night's hunt, to Savuti, a marsh fed by a channel that vanishes for decades and then returns, flooding the plain with water and life with no rainfall to explain the switch; the Savuti prides are famous for hunting elephants, since an elephant sees poorly at night and the lions turn that to their advantage, hunting after dark when their target cannot make them out until they are close. The Linyanti marshes on the far side hold more elephants and fewer people. The park is entered from the town of Kasane, at the corner where Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe meet, an hour from Victoria Falls, and it is the easiest great park in Africa to reach. 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That water-line angle, impossible from a high safari truck, is why photographers rate the Chobe cruise above almost any other in Africa. When a herd wades out toward the green mid-river islands, the guide cuts the engine and lets the current carry the boat alongside, close enough to hear the calves.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F275\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":199},"Drive the sandy interior at first light","Set out at first light on the sand tracks inland, when lions, leopards and the rare African wild dog are still moving from the night's hunt. The drive leaves the green riverfront for the park's drier faces — the Savuti marsh, the Linyanti swamps and the Nogatsaa grasslands — and the ground changes under the wheels with each of them. Every rise brings either a new animal or nothing at all but heat and space.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F275\u002Fe3.webp","Frans van Heerden \u002F Pexels",[201,206,211],{"boxType":202,"title":203,"body":204,"deepBody":205,"sourceNote":157},"geology","The river that comes and goes","The Savuti Channel is a river that vanishes for decades and then returns, flooding the marsh with water and life before running dry again — with no rainfall to explain the switch.","It flowed from 1957 to 1982, then stopped for a generation; it began again in 2008, reached the marsh by 2010, and dried once more around 2015. Geologists blame tiny movements along deep faults tied to the East African Rift, absorbed by the Kalahari sand so no one ever feels them.",{"boxType":207,"title":208,"body":209,"deepBody":210,"sourceNote":157},"wildlife","The lions that hunt elephants","An elephant sees poorly at night, and the Savuti prides turn that to their advantage: they hunt after dark, when their target cannot make them out until they are already close. It is the one weakness that lets lions bring down an animal many times their size.","When the dry season thins the usual prey, prides of up to thirty lions surround an isolated elephant and wear it down, taking mostly younger animals between four and eleven years old. The behaviour has grown since the 1990s and features in landmark films such as BBC's Dynasties.",{"boxType":212,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","Elephants that graze in two countries","At the riverfront, herds wade and swim right across the Chobe to feed on the floodplains of Namibia's Caprivi Strip on the far bank, then cross back — a daily commute between two nations.","The permanent water and green mid-river islands make the crossing worth it when the interior is bone dry. Calves swim behind the adults with their trunks raised like snorkels, and the herds effectively feed in one country and rest in another.",[217,224,229,234],{"phenomenon":218,"peakMonths":219,"note":221,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":223},"chapter_quiet",[90,95,100,105,220,130],11,"Rains scatter the herds inland and zebras trek south to Nxai Pan, so the crowds of animals along the riverfront thin out. This is peak birding, with migrants pouring in and antelope dropping their young. Cruises run from Kasane, though the Savuti and Linyanti roads flood and interior camps close.",false,50,{"phenomenon":225,"peakMonths":226,"note":227,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":228},"chapter_edge",[110,115],"Cool, clear mornings open the dry season, with nights dipping near 9°C. Shrinking water inland draws the first herds to the Chobe. It is quieter than the September crush, yet dawn boats already meet hippos and drinking elephants at eye level.",51,{"phenomenon":230,"peakMonths":231,"note":232,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":233},"chapter_peak",[120,125,162,163],"With the interior pans dry, thousands of elephants funnel to the Chobe alongside buffalo and antelope, and predators follow them. Dawn cruises pass the herds at the waterline. Animal numbers peak through September and October, as the heat climbs toward 40°C before the rains.",52,{"phenomenon":235,"peakMonths":236,"note":237,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":238},"baseline",[],"Chobe's elephants, hippos and predators are here year-round; in the dry season, May to October, thousands of elephants funnel to the river, the easiest time to see them from a boat.",99,[240,251,261],{"id":90,"publicId":241,"slug":242,"name":243,"shortDescription":244,"categoryId":90,"importance":90,"lng":245,"lat":246,"coverImageUrl":247,"country":248,"region":249,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":155,"distanceM":250,"kind":157,"cityGuideId":157},"42ea3367b9ab","victoria-falls","Victoria Falls","The largest curtain of falling water on Earth, 1,708 metres wide on the Zambia–Zimbabwe border — you can walk the rim and swim at its 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