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The moorland is the páramo, the high wet grassland of the northern Andes, and the plants are frailejones, thick-stemmed rosettes of pale velvety leaves that grow only here, a centimetre a year, so that a tall one is centuries old; whole slopes of them stand in the mist like a crowd, and the sponge of moss and peat beneath them holds the rain and releases it slowly into the streams. Above the páramo the rock rises to glaciers and snow, and the trails run to their foot: the northern trail climbs rock and old moraine to the snowline beneath Ritacuba Blanco, the range's highest peak at 5,330 metres, and another reaches the Laguna Grande de la Sierra, a still glacial lake ringed by snow peaks where Andean condors ride the thermals overhead.\n\nThe condor had all but vanished from Colombia by the late twentieth century, and El Cocuy is one of the places where it was brought back. Beside the Pan de Azúcar glacier stands the Púlpito del Diablo, the Devil's Pulpit, a sheer, flat-topped block of rock jutting from the plateau like a church tower, and the walk to its base is the range's most famous day. The ice is on borrowed time: these are tropical glaciers, with no cold season to rebuild what each day melts, and they have lost most of their area in a century; the park has closed and reopened more than once over how much walking the ice can take. The U'wa, whose ancestral land wraps the range, hold the snow peaks sacred and are known across Colombia for defending that land at almost any cost, and the trails follow their rules. El Cocuy is snow on the Equator, and the páramo below it is where Colombia's water begins.","CO",5410,[90,95,115,120,125,130],"permit|**A certified guide is compulsory and can take only four people** — register and buy the required rescue insurance in Güicán or El Cocuy town first, since you cannot sign on at the trailheads themselves.\naccess|**Three routes climb the range** — Ritacuba in the north, Lagunillas in the centre, and Laguna Grande de la Sierra — each walked as a long single day out and back from the trailhead.\nsafety|**Acclimatise for two or three days in Güicán or El Cocuy first** — the trails cross 4,000 metres quickly, and altitude sickness is the most common reason people turn back early.\ntiming|**Set out before dawn** — the summits usually stand clear in the early morning and cloud closes in by midday, so reach the viewpoints and the glacier's edge soon after first light.",[164,165,166,167,168],"Zu_hWR190Dc","lmSggxLKGqo","9uNk-sQbF1A","0F22zKAGIPk","Zg8e0i645_0","America\u002FBogota",{"gallery":171,"exps":185,"boxes":203,"seasons":219,"near":248,"peers":249},[172,174,177,179,181,183],{"url":152,"attribution":173},"Yahir Abril \u002F Unsplash",{"url":175,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F340\u002Fg0.webp","Juan Felipe Ramírez \u002F Pexels",{"url":178,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F340\u002Fg1.webp",{"url":180,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F340\u002Fg2.webp",{"url":182,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F340\u002Fg3.webp",{"url":184,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F340\u002Fg4.webp",[186,190,195,199],{"title":187,"description":188,"imageUrl":189,"attribution":176},"Hike to the foot of Ritacuba Blanco","Follow the northern trail up rock and old moraine to the snowline beneath Ritacuba Blanco, the range's highest peak at 5,330 metres. This is now as far as anyone may go — you stand at the very edge of the ice, where walking onto the glacier is no longer allowed.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F340\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":191,"description":192,"imageUrl":193,"attribution":194},"Rest by Laguna Grande de la Sierra","Catch your breath at the shore of a still glacial lake ringed by snow peaks, where the water mirrors the sky and Andean condors ride the thermals overhead. It is the classic turnaround of the central route through the páramo.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F340\u002Fe2.webp","JUANES MENDI \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":176},"Stand beneath the Devil's Pulpit","Walk to the base of the Púlpito del Diablo, a sheer, flat-topped block of rock jutting from the plateau beside the Pan de Azúcar glacier. Its clean vertical walls, rising straight out of the páramo near 5,100 metres, make it the park's signature landmark.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F340\u002Fe4.webp",{"title":200,"description":201,"imageUrl":202,"attribution":176},"Walk among the frailejones","Cross whole slopes of frailejones — thick-stemmed plants with pale, velvety leaves that grow only in these high Andean moors. Standing among thousands of them, some head-high and older than the people walking past, is the strangest walk in the park.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F340\u002Fe5.webp",[204,209,214],{"boxType":205,"title":206,"body":207,"deepBody":208,"sourceNote":157},"geology","Ice on borrowed time","El Cocuy's glaciers are tropical, and tropical glaciers cannot rebuild the way polar ones do — there is no cold season to replace what each day melts.","The range has already dropped from around twenty-five ice-capped peaks to roughly eighteen, and studies expect the remaining ice to be gone within a generation. Sitting almost on the Equator, the snow line only ever climbs upward; once it passes the highest summits, the glaciers are finished.",{"boxType":210,"title":211,"body":212,"deepBody":213,"sourceNote":157},"culture","The people who guard the mountain","The U'wa, whose ancestral land wraps the Sierra, hold the snow peaks sacred — and are known across Colombia for defending that land at almost any cost.","In their belief, oil is the blood of Mother Earth and must stay in the ground. Through the 1990s the U'wa fought a years-long battle against drilling on their territory, at one point vowing collective suicide rather than see it broken open; the company withdrew in 2002. That same reverence is why the glaciers above are now closed to walkers.",{"boxType":215,"title":216,"body":217,"deepBody":218,"sourceNote":157},"wildlife","Colombia's condor stronghold","By the late twentieth century the condor had all but vanished from Colombia. The birds riding the thermals here are the offspring of captive-bred releases.","Reintroduction programmes put zoo-raised condors into the Cocuy highlands, and the park is now one of only a couple of places in the country where the species holds on. With a wingspan close to three metres, a bird crossing the páramo is unmistakable even at distance.",[220,226,231,236,243],{"phenomenon":221,"peakMonths":222,"note":223,"requiresDarkSky":224,"sortOrder":225},"chapter_peak",[90,95,130],"The main dry season — skies stand clear at dawn and the glaciers show before the midday cloud closes in, the prime window for the long day hikes. Christmas to mid-January draws holiday crowds; late January and February are calmer.",false,50,{"phenomenon":227,"peakMonths":228,"note":229,"requiresDarkSky":224,"sortOrder":230},"chapter_quiet",[100,105,110],"Rains build toward the May peak. The páramo peat turns to mud and cloud covers the summits by mid-morning. The park, guides and town services stay open; there are simply far fewer walkers, and the ice rarely comes into view.",51,{"phenomenon":232,"peakMonths":233,"note":234,"requiresDarkSky":224,"sortOrder":235},"chapter_edge",[115,120,125],"A second dry window, the veranillo — July and August skies open again and the frailejón moorland dries out. Officially one of the two recommended seasons, quieter than December, but less reliable, with clear spells mixed with rain and wind.",52,{"phenomenon":227,"peakMonths":237,"note":241,"requiresDarkSky":224,"sortOrder":242},[238,239,240],9,10,11,"The second wet peak arrives in October: afternoon downpours and low cloud hide the peaks and trails run wet again. Nothing formally closes and guided hikes still go, but a clear view of the ice is a gamble.",53,{"phenomenon":244,"peakMonths":245,"note":246,"requiresDarkSky":224,"sortOrder":247},"baseline",[],"The glaciated peaks, the high moorland and its silver-leaved frailejón plants are here year-round; the dry season, December to February, brings clear skies for the long day hikes up to the 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