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The tiers are travertine, limestone that the stream lays down layer by layer as it drops its dissolved lime, so the pools are held in rims of pale stone and the steps are still growing; the water comes straight off the limestone above and stays cool even at midday, the colour of jade. A trail of about two kilometres climbs beside the falls from the first tier to the seventh, past the pools and cascades, easy at the bottom and a scramble by the top, and the seventh tier, the highest, is the quiet reward, a fall pouring over a lip shaped, the Thais say, like the head of Erawan, the three-headed white elephant of Hindu myth that gave the falls their name.\n\nThe swimming is the lower tiers, where the pools are widest and the water deepest, and the little fish that crowd around your feet are garra, the same doctor fish that fill fish-spa foot baths around the world, here living wild and nibbling at anyone who stands still. A troop of macaques works the lower pools, swinging through the branches and picking along the water's edge, and they steal what is left unwatched. In the dry months the seven tiers settle into calm, clear pools; the wet season closes the upper trail. The falls are the centre of Erawan National Park, in the hills near the River Kwai and its bridge, a day trip from Kanchanaburi or a long one from Bangkok, and busiest at weekends with Thai families. 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Between swims sit on a smooth travertine ledge worn round by the current, with the next cascade pouring in beside you. Where a tier spills in a broad curtain you can step under it for a cold shower that drums on your shoulders.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F277\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":199},"Climb to the seventh tier","Follow the trail to the seventh and highest tier, the quiet reward at the top of the climb. The upper levels are steeper and rougher than the paved lower path, a genuine forest scramble. By the last cascade the canopy has closed in, the roar of the lower falls has softened to a rush, and hornbill calls carry down through the trees.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F277\u002Fe2.webp","Thunyarat Klaiklang \u002F Pexels",{"title":201,"description":202,"imageUrl":203,"attribution":204},"Watch the macaques at the lower pools","Watch the troop of macaques that works the lower tiers, swinging through the branches and picking along the water's edge. They are wild and used to visitors, so keep your distance and never show or offer food — a fed monkey quickly turns into a bold one.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F277\u002Fe5.webp","\"Thailand: Erawan Falls\" by eliduke · CC BY-SA 2.0 (creativecommons.org\u002Flicenses\u002Fby-sa\u002F2.0)",[206,211,216],{"boxType":207,"title":208,"body":209,"deepBody":210,"sourceNote":157},"geology","The steps are still growing","Erawan's tiers are not solid bedrock but travertine — stone the water builds for itself, layer by layer, as it drops its dissolved lime.","Wherever the stream slows, it loses carbon dioxide and leaves a film of calcium carbonate; over centuries these films harden into the lips and dams that shape each pool, helped along by mats of algae and moss. The waterfall is slowly raising and reshaping its own staircase, and the same process can seal small leaks in the rock.",{"boxType":212,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":157},"legend","The white elephant on Siam's flag","A white elephant is a royal, near-sacred creature in Thailand — one even rode the flag of old Siam.","Erawan is the Thai form of Airavata, the three-headed mount Indra rides across the sky. Naming the country's showcase waterfall after a god's elephant was a mark of honour, and the name stuck because the topmost tier was read as the shape of its head.",{"boxType":217,"title":218,"body":219,"deepBody":220,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","A wild fish-spa","The little fish that crowd around your feet in the pools are garra — the same doctor fish that fill fish-spa foot baths around the world, here living wild.","Garra graze on algae and dead skin, which is why a paying pedicure abroad happens for free in Erawan's pools. They gather thickest in the calm lower basins where swimmers stand still; keep moving and they scatter.",[222,227,232,237,242,248,252],{"phenomenon":223,"peakMonths":224,"note":225,"requiresDarkSky":226,"sortOrder":90},"swim",[163,130,90,95,100],"In the dry months the seven emerald tiers settle into calm, clear pools cool enough to swim, with small garra fish nibbling your feet; the wet season closes the upper trail.",false,{"phenomenon":228,"peakMonths":229,"note":230,"requiresDarkSky":226,"sortOrder":231},"chapter_peak",[90,163,130],"The rains have just ended: the seven tiers still run full while the silt settles, so the pools glow their clearest travertine jade. Cool-season air eases the two-kilometre climb, and the water is cool enough to swim.",50,{"phenomenon":233,"peakMonths":234,"note":235,"requiresDarkSky":226,"sortOrder":236},"chapter_edge",[95,100,105],"Deep into the dry season the pools stay clear, calm and swimmable, garra fish and all, but the flow thins and the upper cascades weaken as heat builds toward April. Start the climb early.",51,{"phenomenon":238,"peakMonths":239,"note":240,"requiresDarkSky":226,"sortOrder":241},"chapter_quiet",[110,115,120,125],"The monsoon returns and the falls thunder at full volume, but sediment turns the emerald pools a muddy brown and rangers close the upper trail after heavy downpours. 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