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The lakes are vats of volcanic acid, and their colour is a live readout of the chemistry churning below; gases and minerals rising from the vent shift the balance of iron and sulphur in the water, and the surface changes with them, so that the lakes photographed one year are not the lakes seen the next. Two of them share a crater wall and are usually turquoise and green; the third stands apart and is often black or dark brown. The road from the village of Moni climbs to a car park below the summit, and a short walk before dawn reaches the rim paths that link the three basins, with the light coming up over the lakes and the mist clearing off them, the classic hour on Kelimutu.\n\nFor the Lio people of the mountain's villages the three lakes are the gathering place of departed souls: the young go to one, the old to another, and the wicked to the third, and once a year, on 14 August, the villages climb Kelimutu with offerings of rice, meat and betel to feed their dead, a ceremony that visitors may watch. The rim paths take in each lake from a different angle, and the highest point looks down into all three at once. Instead of driving back, a path drops off the mountain through forest and fields toward Moni, past hot springs and villages of ikat weavers, two hours downhill with the volcano behind. Flores is a long island of volcanoes east of Bali, reached by air or by the road that runs its length, and Kelimutu is the reason most travellers come. Kelimutu is three lakes that will not hold a colour, and the people below it say that is because the dead are restless.","ID","Ende, Flores",1639,[110,115,120,125,163,164],9,10,"view|**Look west for the third lake** — Tiwu Ata Bupu sits apart in a crater of its own, so the famous pair on the summit rail is only two of Kelimutu's three.\nsafety|**The summit is cold and windy before dawn** — bring a warm layer and a torch for the unlit final climb, and take care near the low railings at the crater edges.\nmonths|**The dry months, June to September, give the clearest dawns** — in the wet season cloud often fills the craters and hides the lakes entirely, so weigh the timing before you climb.",[167,168,169,170],"44EzN4T3VsU","qhzmObLG130","Q4UYaw0qkic","EaIrs7pSUKQ","Asia\u002FMakassar",{"gallery":173,"exps":189,"boxes":204,"seasons":215,"near":242,"peers":253},[174,176,178,181,183,186],{"url":152,"attribution":175},"michael-day \u002F Flickr (CC BY 2.0)",{"url":177,"attribution":175},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F380\u002Fg0.webp",{"url":179,"attribution":180},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F380\u002Fg1.webp","Donny Leonardi \u002F Flickr (CC BY 2.0)",{"url":182,"attribution":180},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F380\u002Fg2.webp",{"url":184,"attribution":185},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F380\u002Fg3.webp","D-Stanley \u002F Flickr (CC BY 2.0)",{"url":187,"attribution":188},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F380\u002Fg4.webp","paularps \u002F Flickr (CC BY 2.0)",[190,195,199],{"title":191,"description":192,"imageUrl":193,"attribution":194},"Come up on 14 August with the offerings","Once a year the Lio villages climb Kelimutu to feed their dead. On 14 August, families carry food up to the crater rim and lay it out for the ancestors in the rite called Pati Ka Dua Bapu Ata Mata. Anyone on the mountain that morning shares it with the ceremony rather than with the usual sunrise line.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F380\u002Fe1.webp","VMOS \u002F Flickr (CC BY 2.0)",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":175},"Cross between all three craters","Follow the rim paths that link the summit's three basins, taking in each lake from a different angle. The best stop is the thin wall separating the two neighbouring craters, where you look down on both at once. A green or turquoise lake sits an arm's reach from a black or red one, split only by a ridge of rock. Seen up close, the colours rarely match what the last photograph showed.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F380\u002Fe2.webp",{"title":200,"description":201,"imageUrl":202,"attribution":203},"Walk the forest trail down to Moni","Instead of driving back down, take the path that drops off the mountain toward Moni. It leaves the summit grassland almost at once for montane forest, then threads between smallholdings of coffee and cocoa before the rice terraces of the valley open up around the village.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F380\u002Fe4.webp","Black_Claw \u002F Flickr (CC BY 2.0)",[205,210],{"boxType":206,"title":207,"body":208,"deepBody":209,"sourceNote":157},"geology","What paints the water","Each lake is really a giant vat of volcanic acid, and its colour is a live readout of the chemistry churning below.","Gas venting from the crater floors — sulphur dioxide, hydrogen sulphide, hydrochloric acid — keeps the water extraordinarily acidic, with a pH measured as low as 0.3, and loaded with dissolved iron and other minerals. As the gas supply and oxidation shift, those minerals change form and the water swings between turquoise, green, brown, black and red.",{"boxType":211,"title":212,"body":213,"deepBody":214,"sourceNote":157},"culture","Where the dead come to rest","For the Lio people the three lakes are the gathering place of departed souls, and once a year the living climb up to feed them.","The souls of elders are said to settle in Tiwu Ata Bupu, the young in Tiwu Ko'o Fai Nuwa Muri, and restless or wicked spirits in Tiwu Ata Polo. Each 14 August, in a ceremony called Pati Ka Dua Bapu Ata Mata, villagers climb the mountain to lay offerings of food for their ancestors at the crater rim.",[216,223,228,233,237],{"phenomenon":217,"peakMonths":218,"note":220,"requiresDarkSky":221,"sortOrder":222},"chapter_quiet",[90,95,100,105,219,130],11,"The wet months: rain and low cloud settle into the craters, and many dawns hide the lakes entirely behind mist. Nothing shuts — the park stays open and the colours drift on — but plan to wait out mornings and try more than one.",false,50,{"phenomenon":224,"peakMonths":225,"note":226,"requiresDarkSky":221,"sortOrder":227},"chapter_edge",[110],"May dries the last rains away and the dawns begin to clear, the shoulder before the dry-season peak. Mornings can still cloud over, but the craters open more often now than through the wet months just past.",51,{"phenomenon":229,"peakMonths":230,"note":231,"requiresDarkSky":221,"sortOrder":232},"chapter_peak",[115,120,125,163],"The dry season peak: near-rainless mornings clear the craters, so the pre-dawn mist lifts to reveal all three lakes from the rim. The trade-off is cold — this is the chilliest stretch of the year on the summit before sunrise.",52,{"phenomenon":224,"peakMonths":234,"note":235,"requiresDarkSky":221,"sortOrder":236},[164],"October is the dry season's last clear stretch, and mornings still open often enough to catch the lakes before the rains return in November. The lake colours follow no schedule, so whatever shade they show that week is what you see.",53,{"phenomenon":238,"peakMonths":239,"note":240,"requiresDarkSky":221,"sortOrder":241},"baseline",[],"Kelimutu's three crater lakes shift unpredictably between turquoise, black and red all year, and the changes follow no season; the dry season, June to September, brings the clear dawns for watching them from the rim.",99,[243],{"id":244,"publicId":245,"slug":246,"name":247,"shortDescription":248,"categoryId":135,"importance":95,"lng":249,"lat":250,"coverImageUrl":251,"country":153,"region":154,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":90,"distanceM":252,"kind":157,"cityGuideId":157},211,"baf529295e0a","komodo-padar","Padar & Komodo","Dry Indonesian savanna islands where Komodo dragons still walk the beaches, with a ridge climb above three bays of black, white and pink 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