[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"categories-en":3,"dest-191fe774e275":144,"detail-extra-855":171,"travel-countries-en":297},[4,9,14,19,24,29,34,39,44,49,54,59,64,69,74,79,84,89,94,99,104,109,114,119,124,129,134,139],{"id":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"color":8},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":10,"slug":11,"name":12,"color":13},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":15,"slug":16,"name":17,"color":18},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":20,"slug":21,"name":22,"color":23},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":25,"slug":26,"name":27,"color":28},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":30,"slug":31,"name":32,"color":33},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":35,"slug":36,"name":37,"color":38},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":40,"slug":41,"name":42,"color":43},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":45,"slug":46,"name":47,"color":48},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":50,"slug":51,"name":52,"color":53},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":55,"slug":56,"name":57,"color":58},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":60,"slug":61,"name":62,"color":63},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":65,"slug":66,"name":67,"color":68},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":70,"slug":71,"name":72,"color":73},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":75,"slug":76,"name":77,"color":78},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":80,"slug":81,"name":82,"color":83},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":85,"slug":86,"name":87,"color":88},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":90,"slug":91,"name":92,"color":93},1,"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":95,"slug":96,"name":97,"color":98},2,"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":100,"slug":101,"name":102,"color":103},3,"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":105,"slug":106,"name":107,"color":108},4,"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":110,"slug":111,"name":112,"color":113},5,"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":115,"slug":116,"name":117,"color":118},6,"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":120,"slug":121,"name":122,"color":123},7,"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":125,"slug":126,"name":127,"color":128},8,"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":130,"slug":131,"name":132,"color":133},12,"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":135,"slug":136,"name":137,"color":138},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":140,"slug":141,"name":142,"color":143},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"id":145,"publicId":146,"slug":147,"name":148,"shortDescription":149,"categoryId":35,"importance":105,"lng":150,"lat":151,"coverImageUrl":152,"country":153,"region":154,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":155,"distanceM":-1,"kind":156,"cityGuideId":157,"description":158,"countryCode":159,"adminArea":157,"elevationM":157,"bestMonths":160,"tips":164,"howToGetThere":157,"youtubeIds":165,"timezone":157,"cityGuideSlug":157,"cityGuidePublicId":157,"cityGuideName":157,"poiTheme":157,"poiNeighborhood":157},855,"191fe774e275","gorongosa-national-park","Gorongosa National Park","A Mozambican rift-valley park whose herds were shot out in the civil war, now rebuilt, where poaching left half the female elephants born tuskless.",34.5,-18.766,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F855\u002Fcover.webp","Mozambique","Sofala Province",0,"nature",null,"Gorongosa National Park is a park of floodplain, woodland and lake at the southern end of the Rift Valley in Sofala province, in central Mozambique, whose herds were shot out in the civil war of 1977 to 1992 and have been rebuilt since 2004 into one of the great recoveries of African conservation, where the poaching left about half the adult female elephants born without tusks. The park was the finest in southern Africa in the 1960s, and the war, fought around it, killed roughly nine of every ten large animals for meat and ivory; the cows born tuskless were the ones the poachers left alone, so they passed the trait on, and the science of that is studied here along with the return of the lions, the wild dogs and the leopards brought back in the last twenty years. The floodplain around Lake Urema is the park's heart, where waterbuck are so densely packed that the survey teams photograph the herds and count off the pictures, and as the lake drains back in the dry season the waterbuck, reedbuck and buffalo pack onto the drying grass in their tens of thousands, with the lion prides dozing in the open and the bulk of Mount Gorongosa behind them.\n\nThe Urema wetland is of global importance for birds, and in November the migrants arrive as the residents come into breeding colour, so that guides working the floodplain edges log more than 150 species in a day, egrets, storks and grey crowned cranes in silhouette at dusk. A separate trek leaves the savanna heat and climbs Mount Gorongosa into cool boulder-strewn grassland and dripping montane forest, where the green-headed oriole lives above 700 metres and on no other mountain in the country, and where farmers now grow arabica coffee in the shade of hardwood saplings they plant themselves, so every bush is an argument for a tree. Walks with a ranger thread the fever-tree woodland on sandy tracks. Gorongosa is a park a war emptied, and the elephants that came back carry the proof of it.","MZ",[105,110,115,120,125,161,162,163],9,10,11,"months|**The park closes from mid-December to the end of March**, when rain drowns the plains. It reopens with soft roads, so April drives can be cut short; May onward is safer.\naccess|**You cannot self-drive here** — every game drive leaves Chitengo in an open vehicle with a park guide, so arrange drives with your booking instead of planning your own route.\nsafety|**Malaria is present all year** — take prophylaxis and cover your arms and ankles at dusk, exactly when the best floodplain drives are running.",[166,167,168,169,170],"3nYucbP6x4w","2zUOciwqnJI","JG7Pm6Gf-Io","uq6NqgV8tBM","MNr8RmmNS98",{"gallery":172,"exps":188,"boxes":210,"seasons":226,"near":260,"peers":296},[173,175,177,180,183,185],{"url":152,"attribution":174},"Photo: Judy Gallagher \u002F CC BY 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":176,"attribution":174},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F855\u002Fg0.webp",{"url":178,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F855\u002Fg1.webp","Photo: Thomas Shahan \u002F CC BY 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":181,"attribution":182},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F855\u002Fg2.webp","Photo: Ton Rulkens \u002F CC BY-SA 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":184,"attribution":182},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F855\u002Fg3.webp",{"url":186,"attribution":187},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F855\u002Fg4.webp","Photo: Brian Dell \u002F Public domain (Wikimedia Commons)",[189,193,197,201,205],{"title":190,"description":191,"imageUrl":192,"attribution":174},"Find the lions the war nearly erased","Prides doze in the open floodplain grass with the bulk of Mount Gorongosa behind them. Fewer than thirty lions were left when the fighting stopped; around two hundred live here now, and the park's researchers know most of them by name. Open-vehicle drives cross the Urema grassland in the last hour of light, when waterbuck, reedbuck and buffalo bunch around the shrinking water and the plain is flat enough that the herds run to the horizon.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F855\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":194,"description":195,"imageUrl":196,"attribution":179},"Scan the shallows for waterbirds","The Urema wetland is of global importance for birds, and its shallow edges are where you see why: egrets, storks and grey crowned cranes working the water in silhouette while the sky turns over. Come with binoculars — from the vehicle the birds read as white specks, and up close they are the whole show.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F855\u002Fe3.webp",{"title":198,"description":199,"imageUrl":200,"attribution":182},"Climb Mount Gorongosa into its rainforest","A separate trek leaves the savanna heat behind and climbs into cool, boulder-strewn grassland and dripping montane forest. This is the mountain whose streams feed the floodplain below, and the only place in the country where the green-headed oriole calls from the canopy.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F855\u002Fe4.webp",{"title":202,"description":203,"imageUrl":204,"attribution":187},"Walk the fever-tree woodland with a ranger","Sandy tracks thread through palm and yellow fever-tree woodland between the floodplain and the highlands. On foot with an armed ranger you read the ground instead of scanning it — pug marks, dung, broken branches — and antelope watch you from a distance no vehicle would get.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F855\u002Fe5.webp",{"title":206,"description":207,"imageUrl":208,"attribution":209},"Meet the elephants that carry no ivory","Poachers shot roughly nine out of ten of Gorongosa's elephants during the civil war, and the cows born without tusks were the ones left alone, so about half the adult females here now carry no ivory at all. The trait shows only in females, which means every tuskless adult you see is a cow, and the older ones lived through the fighting. The herds are still wary of vehicles because of it, so a good guide cuts the engine and lets the elephants choose how close they come.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F855\u002Fe6-b6zl.webp","\"African Elephant - Loxodonta africana, Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique\" by Judy Gallagher, CC BY 2.0 (https:\u002F\u002Fcreativecommons.org\u002Flicenses\u002Fby\u002F2.0)",[211,216,221],{"boxType":212,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","Too many to count","Gorongosa's waterbuck are so densely packed on the floodplain that the survey teams cannot tally them the usual way — they photograph the herds and count the animals off the pictures.","Standard aerial censuses count large animals from the air, observer by observer. Waterbuck here defeated the method: from fewer than 500 after the war, the population has passed 50,000 in recent counts, the densest concentration of the species anywhere in Africa, so wide-angle photographs are used instead. Their numbers are now studied as a case of a population outgrowing its own habitat.",{"boxType":217,"title":218,"body":219,"deepBody":220,"sourceNote":157},"wildlife","The oriole that lives on one mountain","The green-headed oriole on Mount Gorongosa lives in the old-growth rainforest above roughly 700 metres and is found on no other mountain in Mozambique — birders climb specifically to hear it.","The Mount Gorongosa birds form their own subspecies, marked by white wing panels the other African populations lack, and they need mature forest canopy to survive. That makes them a direct hostage of what happens to the mountain's trees, which is why the rainforest was brought inside the park boundary in 2010.",{"boxType":222,"title":223,"body":224,"deepBody":225,"sourceNote":157},"culture","Coffee that regrows a rainforest","Farmers on Mount Gorongosa now grow arabica coffee in the shade of hardwood saplings they plant themselves, so every coffee bush is an argument for leaving a tree standing.","Slash-and-burn farming had stripped much of the mountain's forest, and the mountain is the water tower that feeds Lake Urema below. The park's answer was cash: shade-grown coffee earns far more than maize, so hundreds of local farmers plant native hardwoods — mahogany, panga panga, albizia — to shelter it. More than 800,000 coffee plants are in the ground, with tens of thousands of native trees added each year.",[227,232,236,241,246,251,255],{"phenomenon":228,"peakMonths":229,"note":230,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":90},"birds",[163],"In November the migrant birds arrive on the Urema wetland, just as the resident birds come into breeding colour. Guides working the floodplain edges can log more than 150 species in a single day.",false,{"phenomenon":233,"peakMonths":234,"note":235,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":95},"prime",[120,125,161,162],"As Lake Urema drains back toward 10 square kilometres, waterbuck, reedbuck and buffalo pack onto the drying floodplain in their tens of thousands — the herds are never easier to find than this.",{"phenomenon":237,"peakMonths":238,"note":239,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":240},"chapter_closed",[90,95,100,130],"Rain drowns the plains and Lake Urema swells toward 200 square kilometres. The roads turn impassable and the park shuts from mid-December to the end of March, with no game-drive access until the floodplain firms and the gates reopen.",50,{"phenomenon":242,"peakMonths":243,"note":244,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":245},"chapter_edge",[105,110,115],"The gates reopen at the end of March onto soft roads that can cut an April drive short. By May the floodplain firms and greens, the rain all but stops, and the dry-season game-viewing builds through cool, comfortable June.",51,{"phenomenon":247,"peakMonths":248,"note":249,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":250},"chapter_peak",[120,125,161,162],"Lions and wild dogs work the edges of the shrinking floodplain, and October turns fiercely hot.",52,{"phenomenon":242,"peakMonths":252,"note":253,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":254},[163],"The first rains break and the migratory birds arrive over Urema as residents flush into breeding colour, a guide logging 150-plus species in a day. The big herds scatter as water spreads across the plains, and the park stays open to mid-December.",53,{"phenomenon":256,"peakMonths":257,"note":258,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":259},"baseline",[],"Lions, elephants and Africa's largest waterbuck herds are here whenever the park is open; only the birds and the flood are seasonal.",99,[261,273,285],{"id":262,"publicId":263,"slug":264,"name":265,"shortDescription":266,"categoryId":105,"importance":100,"lng":267,"lat":268,"coverImageUrl":269,"country":270,"region":271,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":90,"distanceM":272,"kind":157,"cityGuideId":157},323,"38a196bea112","chimanimani","Chimanimani Mountains","A roadless range of quartzite on Zimbabwe's eastern border, reached on foot or not at all, with seventy plant species growing here and nowhere else.",33.06,-19.78,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F323\u002Fcover.webp","Zimbabwe","Manicaland",188444.56497237,{"id":274,"publicId":275,"slug":276,"name":277,"shortDescription":278,"categoryId":105,"importance":100,"lng":279,"lat":280,"coverImageUrl":281,"country":282,"region":283,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":155,"distanceM":284,"kind":157,"cityGuideId":157},179,"437235a99418","mulanje-massif","Mount Mulanje","A granite island-mountain rising almost sheer from Malawi's tea plains to 3,002 metres, its highest summit named Sapitwa — don't go there — and held sacred.",35.59,-15.95,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F179\u002Fcover.webp","Malawi","Mulanje 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