[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"categories-en":3,"dest-352f8c6d157f":144,"detail-extra-373":170,"travel-countries-en":261},[4,9,14,19,24,29,34,39,44,49,54,59,64,69,74,79,84,89,94,99,104,109,114,119,124,129,134,139],{"id":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"color":8},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":10,"slug":11,"name":12,"color":13},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":15,"slug":16,"name":17,"color":18},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":20,"slug":21,"name":22,"color":23},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":25,"slug":26,"name":27,"color":28},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":30,"slug":31,"name":32,"color":33},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":35,"slug":36,"name":37,"color":38},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":40,"slug":41,"name":42,"color":43},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":45,"slug":46,"name":47,"color":48},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":50,"slug":51,"name":52,"color":53},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":55,"slug":56,"name":57,"color":58},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":60,"slug":61,"name":62,"color":63},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":65,"slug":66,"name":67,"color":68},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":70,"slug":71,"name":72,"color":73},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":75,"slug":76,"name":77,"color":78},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":80,"slug":81,"name":82,"color":83},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":85,"slug":86,"name":87,"color":88},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":90,"slug":91,"name":92,"color":93},1,"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":95,"slug":96,"name":97,"color":98},2,"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":100,"slug":101,"name":102,"color":103},3,"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":105,"slug":106,"name":107,"color":108},4,"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":110,"slug":111,"name":112,"color":113},5,"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":115,"slug":116,"name":117,"color":118},6,"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":120,"slug":121,"name":122,"color":123},7,"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":125,"slug":126,"name":127,"color":128},8,"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":130,"slug":131,"name":132,"color":133},12,"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":135,"slug":136,"name":137,"color":138},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":140,"slug":141,"name":142,"color":143},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"id":145,"publicId":146,"slug":147,"name":148,"shortDescription":149,"categoryId":110,"importance":95,"lng":150,"lat":151,"coverImageUrl":152,"country":153,"region":154,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":90,"distanceM":-1,"kind":156,"cityGuideId":157,"description":158,"countryCode":159,"adminArea":157,"elevationM":160,"bestMonths":161,"tips":163,"howToGetThere":157,"youtubeIds":164,"timezone":169,"cityGuideSlug":157,"cityGuidePublicId":157,"cityGuideName":157,"poiTheme":157,"poiNeighborhood":157},373,"352f8c6d157f","gunung-leuser","Gunung Leuser National Park","The last forest on Earth where orangutans, tigers, rhinos and elephants share the same ground, in Sumatra, trekked into to meet the orangutans on foot.",97.5,3.5,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F373\u002Fcover.webp","Indonesia","Sumatra",0,"nature",null,"Gunung Leuser is a national park in the mountains of northern Sumatra, Indonesia, and it is the last forest on Earth where orangutans, tigers, rhinos and elephants all share the same ground; the orangutans are the ones you go in to meet, on foot, from the village of Bukit Lawang. The village sits on the Bohorok River at the edge of the forest, and the walk from it climbs straight into the trees, where the guides stop and point up: a red-haired ape moving through the canopy on all four limbs, or a mother with a baby on her hip looking down without much interest. Many of the orangutans near the village are semi-wild, the legacy of a rehabilitation centre opened here in 1973 that returned captive animals to the forest, which is why they come close. The forest also holds Thomas's leaf monkeys with their punk crests, hornbills, and the siamang, the largest of the gibbons, whose dawn chorus rolls across the valley for the first couple of hours after sunrise, a whooping duet sung through a throat pouch that you feel in your chest.\n\nDay walks turn around by early afternoon; two- or three-day treks put you hours past that point, at a camp of tarpaulin and bamboo on a bend of the Bohorok, with the forest loud all night. The way home is the river: the Bohorok runs past the village clear and cold straight off the mountains, and floating down it in a rubber tube is how everyone cools off after a day in the forest. The river is also the village's history. In 2003 a flash flood carrying logs from illegal clearing upstream came down in the night and destroyed Bukit Lawang, killing more than two hundred people, and the village was rebuilt on the same bank. The forest around it is still being cut for palm oil, and the orangutans number a few thousand. Gunung Leuser is the last place with all of Sumatra's giants in one forest, and the ape in the tree above you is the reason to keep it.","ID",3404,[90,95,100,105,110,115,120,125,162],9,"wildlife|**The orangutans near Bukit Lawang are often semi-wild rather than truly wild** — descendants of an old rehabilitation programme, they sometimes come close on the trail, but feeding or touching them is forbidden.\nmonths|**The drier months, roughly May to September, make for the best trekking** — trails firm up, the rivers drop for tubing, and leeches thin out, though July and August draw the biggest crowds.\nsafety|**Keep at least seven metres back and wear a mask if you have a cold** — orangutans share enough of our biology to catch human illnesses, which can be deadly to them.\naccess|**A licensed local guide is compulsory beyond the forest edge** — there is no version of this walk you do alone, whether it lasts an afternoon or three days.",[165,166,167,168],"Qj-nKainTsA","Gs8TXj6rcbM","OtS0_5pwQt4","54WGhzzGhjk","Asia\u002FJakarta",{"gallery":171,"exps":187,"boxes":208,"seasons":224,"near":248,"peers":260},[172,174,177,180,182,185],{"url":152,"attribution":173},"Dtravel vlog \u002F Pexels",{"url":175,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F373\u002Fg0.webp","Gunung Leuser National Park by joxeankoret \u002F Flickr (CC BY-SA 2.0)",{"url":178,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F373\u002Fg1.webp","Tom Fisk \u002F Pexels",{"url":181,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F373\u002Fg2.webp",{"url":183,"attribution":184},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F373\u002Fg3.webp","Christopher Hiew \u002F Pexels",{"url":186,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F373\u002Fg4.webp",[188,193,198,203],{"title":189,"description":190,"imageUrl":191,"attribution":192},"Tube down the Bohorok River","The Bohorok runs past Bukit Lawang clear and cold straight off the mountains, and floating down it in a rubber tube is the usual way to cool off after a day in the forest. The current does the work while the rainforest slides past on both banks, and the river is at its best in the drier months from May to September, when the water level drops.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F373\u002Fe1.webp","Bukit Lawang, orangutans by Arian Zwegers \u002F Flickr (CC BY 2.0)",{"title":194,"description":195,"imageUrl":196,"attribution":197},"Listen to the siamang duet","Be out on the valley trail before the light is properly up: the calling runs through the first couple of hours after sunrise and then stops for the rest of the day. Stand still where the valley narrows, because the sound comes off both slopes and you will hear a pair long before you can place them. Staying in the village until seven means missing it.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F373\u002Fe2.webp","Denniz Futalan \u002F Pexels",{"title":199,"description":200,"imageUrl":201,"attribution":202},"Camp on the Bohorok bank on a two- or three-day trek","Two- or three-day treks put you hours past the point where the day walkers turn around, at a camp of tarpaulin and bamboo on a bend of the Bohorok. Dinner is cooked over a fire and eaten off banana leaves, and washing means getting into the river. You wake into the loudest part of the day, because the gibbons start before the light does.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F373\u002Fe4.webp","Thomas Gabernig \u002F Unsplash",{"title":204,"description":205,"imageUrl":206,"attribution":207},"Trek to the orangutans","The reason most people come: a guided walk into the jungle in search of Sumatran orangutans moving through the canopy. Your guide reads the forest for a flash of orange fur or a swaying branch. When a great ape finally appears overhead, often a mother with a clinging infant, the whole steep, sweaty climb makes sense. The same trails turn up Thomas's leaf monkey, a slim, spiky-crested primate that lives in northern Sumatra and nowhere else, leaping tree to tree above the path.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F373\u002Fe-4030.webp","kusuma wijaya \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 — Wikimedia Commons",[209,214,219],{"boxType":210,"title":211,"body":212,"deepBody":213,"sourceNote":157},"history","The night the river came down","The forest's greatest threat is written into Bukit Lawang's own history. On 2 November 2003 a flash flood tore down the Bohorok valley and killed 239 people in a single night.","Swollen by heavy rain, the river burst a small dam and swept thousands of logs through guesthouses while people slept; around 400 homes and much of the village were destroyed. Investigators blamed years of illegal logging upstream for stripping the slopes that once held the water back — the same pressure that keeps the park on UNESCO's danger list. Bukit Lawang was later rebuilt on higher ground.",{"boxType":215,"title":216,"body":217,"deepBody":218,"sourceNote":157},"wildlife","The orangutans that grew up in a school","Many orangutans seen near Bukit Lawang are not fully wild but semi-wild — the legacy of a rehabilitation centre opened here in 1973.","Two Swiss zoologists, Regina Frey and Monica Börner, founded the Bohorok centre to teach orphaned and rescued orangutans to climb, forage, and build nests before release. Many of those animals had been kept illegally as pets. Rangers fed them twice a day from a platform while they found their feet. More than two hundred were returned to the forest before the programme shifted, by the mid-1990s, to letting visitors watch its semi-wild descendants.",{"boxType":220,"title":221,"body":222,"deepBody":223,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","A voice you feel in your chest","The dawn chorus that rolls across the valley comes from the siamang, the largest of all the gibbons, calling through a balloon of skin at its throat.","Before it sings, a siamang inflates a grey throat sac nearly the size of its head. That resonating chamber turns the booming, whooping duet of a mated pair into a sound that carries for kilometres through the forest. Pairs call together each morning to stake out their patch of canopy, and their song is among the loudest of any land mammal.",[225,231,236,243],{"phenomenon":226,"peakMonths":227,"note":228,"requiresDarkSky":229,"sortOrder":230},"chapter_edge",[90,95,100,105],"The drier spell after the heavy rains firms up the trails again, and February is the year's driest month. The summer crowds are still months off, so trekking for orangutans and siamangs is good and quiet. The Bohorok river can still run high early on.",false,50,{"phenomenon":232,"peakMonths":233,"note":234,"requiresDarkSky":229,"sortOrder":235},"chapter_peak",[110,115,120,125,162],"The dry season: trails firm up, the Bohorok drops low enough to tube, and leeches thin out, so orangutans, siamangs and Thomas's leaf monkeys are easiest to find. July and August bring the biggest crowds — book guides ahead.",51,{"phenomenon":237,"peakMonths":238,"note":241,"requiresDarkSky":229,"sortOrder":242},"chapter_quiet",[239,240,130],10,11,"The wettest stretch — the heaviest downpours of the year — swells the Bohorok, so river tubing is often called off and forest trails turn muddy and leech-heavy. Nothing formally shuts: the village stays open, treks still run, and the canopy is at its greenest.",52,{"phenomenon":244,"peakMonths":245,"note":246,"requiresDarkSky":229,"sortOrder":247},"baseline",[],"Bukit Lawang's trails, the Bohorok and the orangutans above them are here every month of the year. What changes is the ground: the drier months from May to September firm up the paths and thin out the leeches, while the wettest stretch turns them to mud.",99,[249],{"id":250,"publicId":251,"slug":252,"name":253,"shortDescription":254,"categoryId":95,"importance":100,"lng":255,"lat":256,"coverImageUrl":257,"country":153,"region":258,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":155,"distanceM":259,"kind":157,"cityGuideId":157},257,"ad421e33f40b","lake-toba","Lake Toba","The largest volcanic lake in the world, in Sumatra, with a Batak island the size of Singapore in the middle, reached by ferry across it.",98.88,2.68,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F257\u002Fcover.webp","North 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