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The waterfront is lined with seafood tables and the smell of grilling fish. Above it, on the hill, stand the broken walls and twin gate-towers of Yoros Castle. You climb a steep lane past tea gardens to reach them, and from up there the whole geography explains itself: two continents pinching together and tankers threading the current below.\n\nThe Byzantines raised the castle to command the strait's narrow neck, and Genoese traders and then Ottoman garrisons held it in turn; its banded stone-and-brick walls still frame the view. For sailors in antiquity this headland was a threshold worth fearing. Before crossing into open water they left offerings at a shrine to Zeus Ourios, the god of fair winds, and the promontory has carried a version of that sacred name ever since: Hieron, then Yoros. 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The inside is fenced off — archaeologists have been digging here since 2010 — so walk the outside of the walls instead. From the seaward side the Bosphorus loosens and pours into the paler Black Sea, with the European shore and its own old fortress staring back.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F600\u002Fe-5037.webp","Mumine Durmaz \u002F Pexels License — Pexels",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":199},"Read the walls at the gate towers","Get close to the twin gate-towers on the landward side and look at how the wall is built: courses of pale stone alternating with bands of flat red brick, the Byzantine signature. 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