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From across the Golden Horn its cream-and-gold skin reads as carved stone. Step inside and the illusion drops: slender iron columns rise to iron galleries, and the ornament was poured rather than carved. A small waterfront garden surrounds it, with the graves of the community's first church leaders set against the walls.\n\nThis is where the Bulgarians broke with the Greek Patriarchate: in the wooden church that stood on this spot the Bulgarian Exarchate declared itself independent in 1872, and the Patriarchate answered by calling them schismatics. In the 1890s the community set out to replace that wooden church on the soft, marshy shore of the Golden Horn, where heavy masonry would sink. The answer was to prefabricate the new one in metal. A Vienna foundry cast the columns, arches, spires and tracery, roughly five hundred tonnes of iron, and barges carried the pieces down the Danube and across the Black Sea. 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Their Cyrillic inscriptions name early leaders of the community that raised this church; standing between their stones and the iron facade, you take in the whole story of the place in a few quiet steps.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F957\u002Fg0-643d.webp","Sami TÜRK \u002F Pexels",[203,208,213,217],{"boxType":204,"title":205,"body":206,"deepBody":207,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","How do you mail a church across a continent?","Behind the iron walls stands an unlikely partnership: an Armenian architect's drawings and an Austrian foundry's moulds.","The design came from Hovsep Aznavur, an Istanbul Armenian architect, who won the competition held for the new church; Vienna's R. Ph. Waagner foundry turned his drawings into metal. Every column, panel and spire was cast, numbered and packed like a giant kit, then fastened on site with bolts, rivets and nuts — a church assembled rather than built.",{"boxType":209,"title":210,"body":211,"deepBody":212,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","The last survivor of a metal-church craze","Iron was the wonder-material of the age, and for a while you could order a whole church and have it shipped in crates.","The late 1800s were iron's golden age — the era of the Eiffel Tower and vast railway halls — and kit churches were sent to colonies, mining towns and distant parishes on several continents. Most were later dismantled, scrapped or simply lost to rust. St. Stephen is among the very few large iron churches still standing and still holding services.",{"boxType":209,"title":214,"body":215,"deepBody":216,"sourceNote":150},"Keeping iron alive beside the sea","Salt air and an iron building are natural enemies; a century in, the church had to be rescued from its own rust.","By the early 2000s rust and settling threatened the structure, and the church closed for a restoration that ran for years. Conservators stripped and treated the ironwork and repaired or replaced failing pieces. 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