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Two narrow entrance halls carry the childhood of Christ and the life of the Virgin, scene by scene, small figures moving through blue hills and tilted buildings. A side burial chapel is painted from floor to vault. From outside it gives away nothing: a squat brick building with low domes, patched and rebuilt over centuries.\n\nInside, the ceilings still shimmer as you move under them. The funerary chapel ends in the Anastasis, with the broken gates of hell scattered under Christ's feet. Metochites himself kneels above a doorway, offering a model of his church, a vast striped hat on his head. The Ottomans turned the building into a mosque and plastered the images over; uncovered again as a museum, it holds prayers once more today. 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The glass cubes were set at slightly different angles, so the gold background and the haloes catch and lose the light as you move.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F560\u002Fe-4431.webp","Feyza Nur \u002F Pexels License — Pexels",{"title":205,"description":206,"imageUrl":207,"attribution":208},"Look at the walls, not just the vaults","Below the gold, the naos walls are faced with slabs of coloured stone: grey-veined Proconnesian, green verde antico, onyx, porphyry. Not one of them was quarried for this church — all of it was cut out of ancient ruins around the city and refitted here. 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