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The streets fall steeply toward the water, and between balconies and laundry lines the strait keeps appearing in silver slivers with the old city rising beyond it. Café terraces spill onto the pavements. Tall stone apartment buildings line the slope, raised around the turn of the twentieth century after fires cleared the wooden houses that stood here, and they give the quarter the faded European look it still wears.\n\nCats doze on doorsteps and windowsills, fed by half the street. In recent decades this became Istanbul's bohemia, home to writers, filmmakers and antique dealers, and the second-hand shops of neighbouring Çukurcuma stack mirrors and chandeliers into the light. A mosque Sinan built for Süleyman's son Cihangir stands on the hill and gave the quarter its name. 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Watch for the Bosphorus opening between buildings, pause at a staircase draped in cats, and finish at the waterfront where ferries and container ships slide past the old city. If you want the steepest version, take Alçakdam Yokuşu instead — two hundred and thirty-seven steps down to the shore road, with seashells set into the concrete.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F945\u002Fe-4513.webp","Batuhan Küçükdemir \u002F Pexels License — Pexels",{"title":192,"description":193,"imageUrl":194,"attribution":195},"Claim a terrace for a long breakfast","Take a pavement table around Firuzağa square in the middle of the morning and order the eastern-style spread Cihangir adopted. It runs to herbed cheese from Van, honey with walnuts, and murtuğa — a hot flour-and-butter dish eaten straight from the pan. Let it stretch for hours, the way the tables around you do, with a cat almost certainly arriving to supervise.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F945\u002Fe-4514.webp","Collab Media \u002F Unsplash License — Unsplash",{"title":197,"description":198,"imageUrl":9,"attribution":9},"Take a bench in the mosque garden","Climb to Cihangir Camii at the top of the slope and go through to the garden behind it, where benches face the water. This is where the neighbourhood comes to sit, and where the view stops being slivers: Sarayburnu with the Topkapı ridge above it, the mouth of the Bosphorus, and the Asian shore running north. 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