[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"dest-b3dd9c5c089a":3,"categories-en":29,"detail-extra-951":168,"travel-countries-en":305},{"id":4,"publicId":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"shortDescription":8,"categoryId":9,"importance":10,"lng":11,"lat":12,"coverImageUrl":13,"country":14,"region":15,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":-1,"kind":17,"cityGuideId":18,"description":19,"countryCode":20,"adminArea":9,"elevationM":9,"bestMonths":21,"tips":22,"howToGetThere":9,"youtubeIds":23,"timezone":24,"cityGuideSlug":25,"cityGuidePublicId":26,"cityGuideName":15,"poiTheme":27,"poiNeighborhood":28},951,"b3dd9c5c089a","istanbul-fethiye-mosque-pammakaristos","Fethiye Mosque (Pammakaristos)","A working Istanbul mosque whose side chapel, kept as a museum, holds gold Byzantine mosaics of Christ and twelve prophets in its dome.",null,3,28.9483,41.0296,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F951\u002Fcover-c1a4.webp","Türkiye","Istanbul",0,"city_poi",1,"Fethiye Mosque hides a chapel of Byzantine gold mosaics behind the wall of a working neighbourhood prayer hall. The chapel is kept apart from the mosque as a small museum, and it is the reason you come. You stand in a cramped, luminous space and look up at a stern Christ ringed by twelve prophets filling the dome. In the apse below, a gold mosaic shows Christ flanked by the Virgin and John the Baptist, close enough to read every face.\n\nThe chapel was built as a grave, attached to the south flank of the monastery church of the Theotokos Pammakaristos. Maria, widow of the protostrator Michael Glabas, a general of Andronikos II, raised it around 1310 over her husband's tomb and dedicated it to Christ the Word. Outside its door the hill belongs to Çarşamba, the quarter of the İsmailağa religious community. Men pass in turbans and long robes, women in black çarşafs, and the shopfronts along Fethiye Caddesi advertise alcohol-free perfume. Apartment blocks have taken most of the slope from the old houses. Hardly anyone in these lanes has come for the mosaics.","TR",[],"access|**The chapel may be shut** — the mosaic museum has been closed for restoration with no reopening date announced; the mosque half and the carved outer wall stay reachable either way.\ncontext|**Kariye is the fallback** — the mosaics at Kariye across the district come from the same brief golden age, and that building is the one usually open.\nphoto|**Wait for the faces to warm** — the gold grounds flatten in dull light and come alive when a shaft catches them; patience beats a flash the tesserae bounce straight back.\netiquette|**The other half is not a museum** — the main hall holds five daily prayers for the neighbourhood, so shoes off, quiet feet, and no wandering during the service.",[],"Europe\u002FIstanbul","istanbul","9c2f287a7617","historic","Çarşamba",[30,35,40,45,50,55,60,65,70,75,80,85,90,95,100,105,110,115,119,124,128,133,138,143,148,153,158,163],{"id":31,"slug":32,"name":33,"color":34},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":36,"slug":37,"name":38,"color":39},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":41,"slug":42,"name":43,"color":44},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":46,"slug":47,"name":48,"color":49},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":51,"slug":52,"name":53,"color":54},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":56,"slug":57,"name":58,"color":59},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":61,"slug":62,"name":63,"color":64},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":66,"slug":67,"name":68,"color":69},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":71,"slug":72,"name":73,"color":74},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":76,"slug":77,"name":78,"color":79},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":81,"slug":82,"name":83,"color":84},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":86,"slug":87,"name":88,"color":89},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":91,"slug":92,"name":93,"color":94},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":96,"slug":97,"name":98,"color":99},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":101,"slug":102,"name":103,"color":104},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":106,"slug":107,"name":108,"color":109},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":111,"slug":112,"name":113,"color":114},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":18,"slug":116,"name":117,"color":118},"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":120,"slug":121,"name":122,"color":123},2,"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":10,"slug":125,"name":126,"color":127},"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":129,"slug":130,"name":131,"color":132},4,"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":134,"slug":135,"name":136,"color":137},5,"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":139,"slug":140,"name":141,"color":142},6,"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":144,"slug":145,"name":146,"color":147},7,"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":149,"slug":150,"name":151,"color":152},8,"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":154,"slug":155,"name":156,"color":157},12,"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":159,"slug":160,"name":161,"color":162},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":164,"slug":165,"name":166,"color":167},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"gallery":169,"exps":180,"boxes":196,"seasons":215,"near":216,"peers":217},[170,172,174,176,178],{"url":13,"attribution":171},"Dosseman \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":173,"attribution":171},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F951\u002Fg0-160d.webp",{"url":175,"attribution":171},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F951\u002Fg1-f2f3.webp",{"url":177,"attribution":171},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F951\u002Fg2-10a0.webp",{"url":179,"attribution":171},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F951\u002Fg3-a558.webp",[181,186,191],{"title":182,"description":183,"imageUrl":184,"attribution":185},"Read the dome, then the apse","Step into the side chapel and tip your head straight back to find the stern Christ Pantocrator at the centre of the dome, then travel slowly around the ring of twelve prophets encircling him. Look closely at their faces and scrolls: the artists gave each man his own features, so no two repeat. Then drop your eyes to the curve of the apse at the eastern end, where the Deesis has Christ enthroned between the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist, both leaning in mid-appeal on behalf of humankind.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F951\u002Fe-4531.webp","NoblePrime \u002F Pixabay Content License — Pixabay",{"title":187,"description":188,"imageUrl":189,"attribution":190},"Trace the inscription outside","Before you step inside, circle the chapel's exterior and run your eye along the carved stone band beneath the roofline. That unbroken ribbon of Greek letters is the founder's dedication, and at street level you can read it as clearly as anyone could seven centuries ago. Few Byzantine inscriptions survive this complete, or this close to the pavement.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F951\u002Fe-4533.webp","Nurefşan koşar \u002F Unsplash License — Unsplash",{"title":192,"description":193,"imageUrl":194,"attribution":195},"Wander old Çarşamba","Leave time for the sloping lanes around the mosque. Look for leaning timber Ottoman houses, small Qur'an schools, and the weekly street market that gives the district its name — Çarşamba means Wednesday. It is one of the most tradition-bound corners of old Istanbul, and part of the visit's mood.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F951\u002Fe-4534.webp","ugur gurtekin \u002F Pexels License — Pexels",[197,202,206,211],{"boxType":198,"title":199,"body":200,"deepBody":201,"sourceNote":9},"history","Centuries under a coat of plaster","The gold you look at spent most of the Ottoman period invisible, sealed behind a coat of plaster.","Teams from the Byzantine Institute of America and Dumbarton Oaks began stripping that plaster in 1949 and worked on into the 1960s, freeing the dome, the apse and an intact Baptism panel. The chapel's coloured marble wall panelling had already vanished, which is why the mosaics now carry the room almost alone.",{"boxType":198,"title":203,"body":204,"deepBody":205,"sourceNote":9},"Where Orthodoxy regrouped after 1453","For 131 years after the conquest, a modest church on this back slope was the administrative centre of Orthodox Christianity.","The patriarch Gennadios II moved here in 1456 after a short spell at the Church of the Holy Apostles, which was pulled down soon afterwards. Pammakaristos held the seat until 1587, then the patriarchate moved on and finally settled in the Phanar quarter downhill, where it still is.",{"boxType":207,"title":208,"body":209,"deepBody":210,"sourceNote":9},"did_you_know","A mosque named for a war a thousand miles away","The campaigns it celebrates unfolded far to the east — and honouring them here meant builders taking a hammer to the Byzantine church itself.","Around 1590 Murad III dedicated the new mosque to his armies' victories in Georgia and Azerbaijan. To open a prayer hall, builders knocked through the church's Byzantine partitions, fusing the cramped bays into one broad domed room — which is why the main mosque feels so unlike the tight, intimate chapel beside it.",{"boxType":207,"title":212,"body":213,"deepBody":214,"sourceNote":9},"A widow's poem carved around the walls","Run your eye along the chapel's outer cornice and you are reading a grieving wife's letter, cut into stone.","The court poet Manuel Philes wrote a long verse epigram for the chapel, carved in a band around the building. It speaks in the voice of Maria, the founder, mourning her husband the general Michael Glabas and offering the chapel and his tomb to God. 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