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They stand shoulder to shoulder along both rails at almost any hour, rods angled over the current, buckets of small silver fish at their feet. Ferries churn past below, trailing clouds of gulls, and the smell of grilling fish drifts up from the Eminönü quay. Look one way and Süleymaniye's domes rise over the old city; look the other and Galata Tower marks the hill.\n\nUnderneath runs a second deck of fish restaurants facing the water, so the crossing has an upper level of traffic and a lower one of tables. This is the fifth bridge to stand at the narrow mouth, and a span has joined the imperial city to the merchant quarter of Galata since 1845. The current bascule bridge opened in 1994, its middle built to lift in the small hours so ships can pass. 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