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The village is as much of the visit as the tower: fishing boats knock against the quay, the catch goes straight onto plain seafood tables, and the ruined walls of Rumeli Feneri Kalesi overlook the harbour. That fort went up around 1769, during the Russo-Turkish war, to close the mouth of the strait, and it has never been restored. Follow the breakwater out and the water changes, the sheltered strait meeting the open sea head-on, with salt and gulls on the wind.\n\nFrench engineers raised the tower in 1856, during the Crimean War, to guide allied fleets past a coast where wrecks were common. It still works, and its lamp sweeps the dark each night. Just offshore lie the Cyanean Rocks, which ancient sailors knew as the Symplegades: in the tale of Jason and the Argonauts these were the clashing rocks that ground passing ships to splinters. 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