[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"dest-25f7b7410ab1":3,"categories-en":30,"detail-extra-814":167,"travel-countries-en":282},{"id":4,"publicId":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"shortDescription":8,"categoryId":9,"importance":10,"lng":11,"lat":12,"coverImageUrl":13,"country":14,"region":15,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":-1,"kind":17,"cityGuideId":18,"description":19,"countryCode":20,"adminArea":18,"elevationM":18,"bestMonths":21,"tips":27,"howToGetThere":18,"youtubeIds":28,"timezone":18,"cityGuideSlug":18,"cityGuidePublicId":18,"cityGuideName":18,"poiTheme":18,"poiNeighborhood":18},814,"25f7b7410ab1","itchan-kala","Itchan Kala","The walled inner town of Khiva in Uzbekistan, fifty monuments and 250 mudbrick houses packed into 26 hectares, the last halt before the desert crossing.",30,3,60.363889,41.378333,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F814\u002Fcover.webp","Uzbekistan","Khorezm \u002F Khiva",0,"settlement",null,"Itchan Kala is the walled inner town of Khiva, in the Khorezm region of western Uzbekistan, fifty monuments and 250 mudbrick houses packed into 26 hectares inside walls ten metres high, the last halt of the caravans before the crossing of the Karakum desert to Persia, and it is the most complete old city in Central Asia, walked in a day and returned to after dark, when the gates and minarets are floodlit and the turquoise tile glows against the desert sky. Khiva was the capital of a khanate that lived on the caravan trade and, until the Russians took it in 1873, on one of the most notorious slave markets in the region, trafficking Persian and Russian captives seized by Turkmen raiders on the roads; legend has the town beginning when Shem, a son of Noah, dug a well here whose water was so sweet that the settlement took its name, Kheivak, and the well is shown in a courtyard. Four fortified gates with twin brick towers mark the cardinal entrances, and inside the lanes run between the khan's palaces, the madrasas and the mausoleum of Pahlavan Mahmud, the town's wrestler saint, under a dome of blue tile.\n\nThe landmarks are the towers. The Kalta Minor is a fat, unfinished minaret sheathed in bands of turquoise and green tile, stopped at 29 metres when the khan who started it died in 1855, and the Islam Khoja minaret, the tallest in Khiva at 57 metres, has a viewing platform partway up reached by a steep, unlit spiral stair, with the whole town of flat mud roofs and blue domes below and the desert beyond. The Juma mosque is a forest of 213 carved wooden columns in the dark, about 112 of them older than the mosque itself, salvaged from earlier buildings, some cut a thousand years ago. The madrasa courtyards dissolve into star-and-hexagon majolica, and the covered Allakuli Khan bazaar still sells suzani embroidery, fur hats and ikat. Itchan Kala is a caravan town kept whole inside its walls, and the desert is still at the gate.","UZ",[10,22,23,24,25,26],4,5,9,10,11,"access|**No private cars come through the gates, and the lanes need no ticket** — people live inside the walls, so the town stays open at any hour; the turnstiles are on the monument doors.\nsafety|**The Islam Khoja climb is steeper than it looks** — the viewing platform sits 45 metres up the 57-metre minaret, and the spiral stair to it is narrow, unlit and without a handrail.\ntiming|**The squares have no shade** — at midday go inside the Juma Mosque, where the forest of columns stays dark and cool, and save the open ground for the ends of the day.",[29],"EhfXBR9TGbI",[31,36,41,46,51,56,61,66,71,76,81,86,91,96,101,106,110,115,120,125,129,133,137,142,147,152,157,162],{"id":32,"slug":33,"name":34,"color":35},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":37,"slug":38,"name":39,"color":40},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":42,"slug":43,"name":44,"color":45},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":47,"slug":48,"name":49,"color":50},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":52,"slug":53,"name":54,"color":55},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":57,"slug":58,"name":59,"color":60},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":62,"slug":63,"name":64,"color":65},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":67,"slug":68,"name":69,"color":70},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":72,"slug":73,"name":74,"color":75},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":77,"slug":78,"name":79,"color":80},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":82,"slug":83,"name":84,"color":85},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":87,"slug":88,"name":89,"color":90},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":92,"slug":93,"name":94,"color":95},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":97,"slug":98,"name":99,"color":100},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":102,"slug":103,"name":104,"color":105},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":9,"slug":107,"name":108,"color":109},"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":111,"slug":112,"name":113,"color":114},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":116,"slug":117,"name":118,"color":119},1,"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":121,"slug":122,"name":123,"color":124},2,"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":10,"slug":126,"name":127,"color":128},"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":22,"slug":130,"name":131,"color":132},"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":23,"slug":134,"name":135,"color":136},"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":138,"slug":139,"name":140,"color":141},6,"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":143,"slug":144,"name":145,"color":146},7,"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":148,"slug":149,"name":150,"color":151},8,"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":153,"slug":154,"name":155,"color":156},12,"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":158,"slug":159,"name":160,"color":161},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":163,"slug":164,"name":165,"color":166},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"gallery":168,"exps":186,"boxes":207,"seasons":223,"near":257,"peers":281},[169,171,174,177,180,183],{"url":13,"attribution":170},"Foto: Fulvio Spada \u002F CC BY-SA 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":172,"attribution":173},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F814\u002Fg0.webp","Foto: Adam Harangozó \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":175,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F814\u002Fg1.webp","Foto: Hylgeriak \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":178,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F814\u002Fg2.webp","Foto: Petar Milošević \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":181,"attribution":182},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F814\u002Fg3.webp","Foto: LBM1948 \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":184,"attribution":185},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F814\u002Fg4.webp","Foto: Dan Lundberg \u002F CC BY-SA 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",[187,191,196,200,204],{"title":188,"description":189,"imageUrl":190,"attribution":182},"Return after dark to see it glow","After dark, Itchan Kala's gates and minarets are floodlit from below, and the turquoise tilework and mudbrick walls take on a warm glow against a black desert sky. Wandering the lit lanes at night — no tour groups, just centuries-old brick under the lamps — is the closest the town comes to how caravan travellers once saw it.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F814\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":192,"description":193,"imageUrl":194,"attribution":195},"Linger at a madrasa's tiled archway","Step into any of the madrasa courtyards and the walls dissolve into star-and-hexagon majolica patterns, each tile individually glazed and set by hand. The density of pattern rewards slowing down at a single archway rather than rushing between monuments.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F814\u002Fe2.webp","Foto: Faqscl \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"title":197,"description":198,"imageUrl":199,"attribution":182},"Pass through a city gate into the back-lanes","Four fortified gates with twin brick towers and blue-tiled domes mark the cardinal entrances, each once guarded and closed at night. Walking through one under the cool of its brick archway is the moment you leave the modern city for the walled one. Inside, away from the main thoroughfare, the residential lanes twist between mudbrick courtyard houses with no obvious logic — ducking into these quieter alleys is the best way to see everyday life still lived within the walls.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F814\u002Fe3.webp",{"title":201,"description":202,"imageUrl":203,"attribution":179},"Browse the covered bazaar","The restored Allakuli Khan bazaar's wooden-columned porticoes still shelter stalls selling suzani embroidery, fur hats and ikat fabric, much as they did along the old caravan route. It's one of the few corners of Itchan Kala where commerce, rather than monuments, sets the pace.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F814\u002Fe5.webp",{"title":205,"description":206,"imageUrl":18,"attribution":18},"Climb Islam Khoja for the rooftop view","The 57-metre Islam Khoja minaret, the tallest in Khiva, opens a viewing platform partway up, reached by a steep, unlit spiral stair. From the top the whole walled town resolves into a tight sea of flat mudbrick roofs, blue domes and minaret tips, with the Kyzylkum desert running flat to the horizon beyond the ramparts.",[208,213,218],{"boxType":209,"title":210,"body":211,"deepBody":212,"sourceNote":18},"history","The market Russia shut down","Until 1873, Khiva ran one of Central Asia's most notorious slave markets, trafficking Persian and Russian captives seized by Turkmen raiders on the caravan roads.","Tens of thousands of captives passed through the khanate's markets; Allakuli Khan's lavish Tash Hauli palace was reputedly raised in the 1830s by more than a thousand of them. Tsarist Russia used the trade as its pretext for invasion, took Khiva in June 1873, and abolished slavery here as a condition of the peace.",{"boxType":214,"title":215,"body":216,"deepBody":217,"sourceNote":18},"did_you_know","A forest of borrowed columns","About 112 of the Juma Mosque's carved wooden columns are older than the mosque itself — salvaged from earlier buildings, some cut a thousand years ago.","A mosque has stood on this site since at least the 10th century, when the geographer al-Muqaddasi recorded it. When the hall was rebuilt in the 1780s its builders set old columns among new ones, a few dated to the 10th–12th centuries, so the dim forest of pillars spans roughly a thousand years of Khorezm carving.",{"boxType":219,"title":220,"body":221,"deepBody":222,"sourceNote":18},"legend","The well that named the city","Legend says Khiva began when Shem, a son of Noah, dug a desert well whose water tasted so sweet the settlement around it took the well's name, Kheivak.","The tale has Shem wandering the Khorezm desert, dreaming of three hundred burning torches, and laying out a town in their pattern around the well he sank. The Kheivak well is still shown inside the walls; historians treat the story as folklore, but the name Khiva does seem to descend from it.",[224,230,235,240,244,248,252],{"phenomenon":225,"peakMonths":226,"note":227,"requiresDarkSky":228,"sortOrder":229},"chapter_quiet",[116,121,153],"Deep desert winter: nights fall to −6°C and thin snow sometimes dusts the glazed tilework. Nothing closes, and the tour buses vanish, so the glowing lanes are yours.",false,50,{"phenomenon":231,"peakMonths":232,"note":233,"requiresDarkSky":228,"sortOrder":234},"chapter_edge",[10],"Spring stirs but days stay cool, near 13°C. On 21 March the Navruz new-year festival fills the walled old town of Itchan Kala with Khorezm Lazgi dance and music. The crowds and the warmth are only just building.",51,{"phenomenon":236,"peakMonths":237,"note":238,"requiresDarkSky":228,"sortOrder":239},"chapter_peak",[22,23],"The sweet spot: mild April eases toward a warm 30°C May, and low sun deepens the turquoise and cobalt glazes. Everything is open, and the lanes stay comfortable to walk from dawn to dusk.",52,{"phenomenon":225,"peakMonths":241,"note":242,"requiresDarkSky":228,"sortOrder":243},[138,143,148],"Fierce oasis heat — July bakes past 37°C under twelve hours of open sun, and midday glare flattens the tilework. Nothing shuts; you simply walk the lanes at dawn and dusk, not noon.",53,{"phenomenon":236,"peakMonths":245,"note":246,"requiresDarkSky":228,"sortOrder":247},[24,25],"Autumn's return of comfort: warm September near 29°C settles to a mild 20°C October, the year's kindest light. Every monument stays open, and the glazes glow at day's end.",54,{"phenomenon":231,"peakMonths":249,"note":250,"requiresDarkSky":228,"sortOrder":251},[26],"The shoulder into winter: days cool to about 12°C, the light goes early, and the tour crowds thin. Still a fine, quiet time to walk before the frost sets in.",55,{"phenomenon":253,"peakMonths":254,"note":255,"requiresDarkSky":228,"sortOrder":256},"baseline",[],"The walled Silk Road city of Khiva, its turquoise minarets and mudbrick lanes are here year-round; spring and autumn spare the desert heat, and evenings empty of the tour crowds.",99,[258,270],{"id":259,"publicId":260,"slug":261,"name":262,"shortDescription":263,"categoryId":163,"importance":121,"lng":264,"lat":265,"coverImageUrl":266,"country":267,"region":268,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":269,"kind":18,"cityGuideId":18},180,"645eb1bc074b","darvaza-gas-crater","Darvaza Gas Crater (Door to Hell)","A gas crater in Turkmenistan's Karakum desert that Soviet drillers set alight, still burning over fifty years later, with campers sleeping at the unfenced 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