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The fall is also called Ulaan Tsutgalan, and it lies in the Orkhon valley, a UNESCO landscape of steppe and nomad camps that was the heartland of the Mongol empire, with Karakorum, the old capital, downstream; the ground around the gorge is strewn with blocks of black basalt left by the lava flows that buried this stretch of the valley roughly twenty thousand years ago, and the gorge itself is a fissure in the lava, so that the river seems to fall into a crack in the earth, with the steppe running unbroken on either side. The pool at the foot is a shock of cold after the heat of the open plain, reached by a scramble down the rocks, and it is swum in on hot days by the families camped on the rim.\n\nLarch woods grow right up to the edge of the gorge, and short paths run through them from one lookout to the next along the rim, with the fall seen from the front and then from above. On the high ground stands an ovoo, a Mongolian sacred cairn of stones hung with blue silk scarves, which is circled three times clockwise with a stone added to the heap. Nomad families pitch ger camps for visitors along the river in summer, and horses are ridden from them up the valley and to the Tövkhön monastery in the hills; the road in is a rough track across the steppe from Kharkhorin. For much of the winter the fall freezes solid and the black gorge fills with a still wall of ice. Orkhon Waterfall is a river falling into a crack in the steppe, and the rain decides whether it falls at all.","MN",2010,[115,120,125,162],9,"season|**Check that it is actually flowing before the long trip** — the falls need summer rain to run, and a lean year can leave the drop a mere trickle; ask your camp first.\naccess|**Come self-sufficient** — the falls sit on rough highland track with only nomad ger camps nearby, so carry what you need for the day.\nwater|**Reach the pool from downstream, and read the water** — the scramble to the base starts about 250 m below the falls; skip the swim when heavy rain makes the current fierce.\nsafety|**Nights turn cold even in July** — at this height on the steppe the temperature drops fast after dark, so pack windproof layers and sturdy shoes for the wet gorge.",[165,166,167,168],"MdFrfiaEsx0","xXoCBnB6WXc","bybFtRWVh3w","tx8fnYQ8Rls","Asia\u002FUlaanbaatar",{"gallery":171,"exps":184,"boxes":201,"seasons":212,"near":248,"peers":260},[172,174,176,178,180,182],{"url":152,"attribution":173},"serg_ulixes \u002F Flickr (CC BY 2.0)",{"url":175,"attribution":173},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fg0.webp",{"url":177,"attribution":173},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fg1.webp",{"url":179,"attribution":173},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fg2.webp",{"url":181,"attribution":173},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fg3.webp",{"url":183,"attribution":173},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fg4.webp",[185,189,193,197],{"title":186,"description":187,"imageUrl":188,"attribution":173},"Cool off in the pool","After the heat of the open steppe, the pool at the foot of the falls is a shock of cold. You swim in mountain-fed water in the shadow of the black basalt walls, the roar of the cascade filling the gorge.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":190,"description":191,"imageUrl":192,"attribution":173},"Walk in the larch forest","Larch woods grow right up to the edge of the gorge, and short paths run through them from one lookout to the next along the rim. Walking between them gives you the falls from several angles — head-on from the lip, side-on from among the trees — and the shade is welcome, because there is none out on the open steppe. Come back as the sun drops and low light rakes the steppe, warming the black basalt to bronze while the grassland runs gold to the horizon.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fe2.webp",{"title":194,"description":195,"imageUrl":196,"attribution":173},"Climb to the sacred ovoo","An ovoo is a Mongolian sacred cairn: a heap of stones hung with blue silk scarves and raised on high ground. The one here sits on the rocky summit above the falls, and the short climb to it leads to the best viewpoint around. From beside the cairn you look straight down the black gorge and out across the grassland the river crosses.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fe3.webp",{"title":198,"description":199,"imageUrl":200,"attribution":173},"Explore the basalt fissure","The ground around the gorge is strewn with blocks of black basalt, left by the lava flows that buried this stretch of the valley roughly twenty thousand years ago. Walking out among them you can see the same rock stacked in sheets in the cliff walls, and how far the Orkhon has cut down through it since.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fe4.webp",[202,207],{"boxType":203,"title":204,"body":205,"deepBody":206,"sourceNote":157},"history","The valley of empires","The falls sit inside the Orkhon Valley Cultural Landscape, a UNESCO World Heritage site and, for more than two thousand years, the seat of one steppe empire after another.","Along this river the Turks left carved memorial stelae, the Uighurs built the city of Khar Balgas, and in the 13th century Chinggis Khaan's heirs raised Karakorum, capital of the Mongol Empire, a few hours downstream. Nomads have grazed these pastures without a break for millennia — the reason UNESCO listed the valley in 2004.",{"boxType":208,"title":209,"body":210,"deepBody":211,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","A waterfall of ice","For much of the winter the falls freeze solid, and the black gorge fills with a still wall of ice.","Mongolian winters lock the river in ice for months, turning the cascade into hanging columns. Some years the site hosts a winter festival on the frozen Orkhon, with ice-climbing and old steppe games like knucklebone shooting and ice archery.",[213,218,225,229,234,239,243],{"phenomenon":214,"peakMonths":215,"note":216,"requiresDarkSky":217,"sortOrder":90},"highwater",[120,125,162],"The falls run only once the summer rains fill the Orkhon — thundering through July and August, then thinning to a trickle by autumn, and freezing to ice in winter.",false,{"phenomenon":219,"peakMonths":220,"note":223,"requiresDarkSky":217,"sortOrder":224},"chapter_quiet",[90,95,100,221,222,130],10,11,"After the camps close in September the falls dwindle, and by midwinter they freeze into an ice wall on the black basalt. Cold sinks toward −20 °C and no camps run, so a cold-season visit is a private, self-sufficient trip over frozen track.",50,{"phenomenon":219,"peakMonths":226,"note":227,"requiresDarkSky":217,"sortOrder":228},[105,110],"Thaw: the ice breaks up and the first ger camps reopen in May, but spring here is dry and the falls stay thin, with frosty dawns, the odd sleet shower, and a green steppe only just waking.",51,{"phenomenon":230,"peakMonths":231,"note":232,"requiresDarkSky":217,"sortOrder":233},"chapter_edge",[115],"Summer rains begin to build and the steppe turns green; the camps are open and the Orkhon is filling, so the falls run well, though short of the full July thunder still to come.",52,{"phenomenon":235,"peakMonths":236,"note":237,"requiresDarkSky":217,"sortOrder":238},"chapter_peak",[120,125],"The heavy summer rains fill the Orkhon and the falls hit their widest, thundering off the black basalt into the cold green pool. This is the warmest stretch, days near 24 °C, and every camp and track is open.",53,{"phenomenon":230,"peakMonths":240,"note":241,"requiresDarkSky":217,"sortOrder":242},[162],"The rains fade fast and the falls begin to thin, but they still run and the valley turns gold. The ger tent camps stay open to about the end of the month; then the cold shuts them and frost hardens the nights.",54,{"phenomenon":244,"peakMonths":245,"note":246,"requiresDarkSky":217,"sortOrder":247},"baseline",[],"Mongolia's widest waterfall drops from the steppe into a basalt gorge. 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