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The channel runs between the mainland and Booth Island, and the ships that cruise the peninsula slow to almost nothing to thread it; on the outer deck the engines drop away and you hear the hull pushing brash ice aside, a sound like gravel running under the bow, with the walls closing in on either side and the twin Una Peaks, basalt towers capped with ice, standing at the northern gate. Humpback, minke and orca gather in the calm water, most reliably in February and March, and seals bask on the floes close enough to the deck to be heard breathing. The channel was first threaded by the Belgica in 1898, a ship that sailed on into the pack and could not get out again for more than a year.\n\nThe channel has nowhere to land, but its southern exit opens onto Petermann Island, where zodiacs put you onto rock that gentoo penguins are already nesting on, with Adélies among them and the cliffs of the channel standing behind; from the island's high point the whole strait lies in view with the icebergs stopped in it. Zodiacs nose in among the floes, close enough to see the old scars on a seal's hide and to hear the ice creak, and the water between the bergs is so still that the cliffs stand upside down in it. The channel can also be full: when the ice packs in, the ships turn back, and the passage is made when the sea allows. 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Jonsson \u002F Unsplash",{"url":173,"attribution":174},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F778\u002Fg0.webp","Foto: Lloyd Kimball \u002F Unsplash",{"url":176,"attribution":177},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F778\u002Fg1.webp","Foto: Djwosa \u002F Pixabay",{"url":179,"attribution":180},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F778\u002Fg2.webp","Foto: Liam Quinn \u002F Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 2.0)",{"url":182,"attribution":183},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F778\u002Fg3.webp","Foto: Matthew Stephenson \u002F Unsplash",{"url":185,"attribution":186},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F778\u002Fg4.webp","Foto: Pixabay \u002F Pexels",[188,193,198],{"title":189,"description":190,"imageUrl":191,"attribution":192},"Ride the outer deck through the narrows","On deck the engines drop to almost nothing and you hear the hull pushing brash ice aside, a sound like gravel running under the bow. The cliffs stand close enough on both sides that you find yourself looking up rather than out. If the ship runs it late in the day the light never really goes: the sun slides along behind the peaks instead of setting, and the shore ice holds a slow blue-and-amber glow for hours rather than minutes.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F778\u002Fe1.webp","Foto: Marek Piwnicki \u002F Pexels",{"title":194,"description":195,"imageUrl":196,"attribution":197},"Step ashore at Petermann, just beyond the narrows","The channel has nowhere to land, but its southern exit opens onto Petermann Island, where zodiacs put you onto rock that Gentoo penguins are already nesting on. Crouch low and keep still and the birds carry on within a few metres, treating a quiet visitor as part of the landscape.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F778\u002Fe3-909z.webp","Foto: ArcticDesire.com Polarreisen \u002F Pexels",{"title":199,"description":200,"imageUrl":201,"attribution":180},"Cruise by zodiac among the floes","Zodiacs nose in among the floes, close enough to hear a seal breathe and to see the old scars on its hide. With the outboards cut you drift, and the ice is what you hear: floes grinding against each other and meltwater running off the grounded bergs.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F778\u002Fe4.webp",[203,208],{"boxType":204,"title":205,"body":206,"deepBody":207,"sourceNote":157},"history","The first winter locked in ice","The Belgica, the ship that first threaded this channel in 1898, sailed on into the pack and could not get out again for more than a year.","Frozen in near Peter I Island from March 1898, Adrien de Gerlache's crew became the first people to overwinter within the Antarctic Circle. Thirteen dark months followed, and the crew was kept alive on raw seal and penguin meat prescribed by the ship's surgeon, Frederick Cook. A young Norwegian first mate, Roald Amundsen, was aboard.",{"boxType":209,"title":210,"body":211,"deepBody":212,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","The towers at the gate","The twin Una Peaks are basalt, each capped with ice, and were once charted under the plainer name Cape Renard Towers.","The taller spire rises to 747 metres straight from the water, and generations of sailors have known the pair by a bawdier nickname, \"Una's Tits.\" Dark rock against white ice, they are the first landmark ships pass entering the channel from Flandres Bay to the north.",[214,219,224,231,236],{"phenomenon":215,"peakMonths":216,"note":217,"requiresDarkSky":218,"sortOrder":90},"whales",[90,95,100],"Humpback, minke and orca gather in the mirror-still channel, most reliably in the settled calm of February and March, while seals bask on the floes.",false,{"phenomenon":220,"peakMonths":221,"note":222,"requiresDarkSky":218,"sortOrder":223},"chapter_peak",[90,95,100],"Summer melt opens the narrow channels, and ships get through more easily.",50,{"phenomenon":225,"peakMonths":226,"note":229,"requiresDarkSky":218,"sortOrder":230},"chapter_closed",[105,110,115,120,125,227,228],9,10,"No expedition ship sails the Antarctic Peninsula from April to October: winter sea ice locks the strait shut and daylight shrinks to roughly three dim hours near midwinter. There is no other way in — the channel simply waits out the dark.",51,{"phenomenon":232,"peakMonths":233,"note":234,"requiresDarkSky":218,"sortOrder":235},"chapter_edge",[161,130],"The season opens as expedition ships return: early summer brings the thickest, most dramatic ice, but the narrows often jam solid, forcing a ship to abandon the run and detour around the seaward side of Booth Island.",52,{"phenomenon":237,"peakMonths":238,"note":239,"requiresDarkSky":218,"sortOrder":240},"baseline",[],"The cliff-walled Antarctic strait — 'Kodak Alley' — is passable only in the polar summer, November to March, when the ice clears; whales gather most in February and 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