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The name means the bedsheets of Maranhão, for the way the dunes look from the air, white and rippled to the horizon, and the trick of the place is the water table: the rains from January to June soak the sand, the hollows brim, and from about June to September the lagoons are at their fullest, up to three metres deep, fresh rainwater over a floor of pale sand, warm at the edges and startlingly cold where it deepens; then the sun drains them, and by the year's end the valleys shrink to empty sand. Fish swim in the lakes every wet season although each dries up completely, hatched from eggs that survive the dry months in the sand or carried in by birds.\n\nThe field is crossed on foot with a guide, because there are no paths and no landmarks and the shape of the dunes is what the guide reads to lead you from one lagoon to the next, barefoot over ridges of warm sand. You push up the soft face of a forty-metre dune, sinking to your ankles, and from the crest the lagoons appear below in a chain, each a different blue in a white bowl; then you drop down and swim, and climb the next. Beyond the lagoons a stretch of pure sand runs on with no plant, no sound and no marker in any direction. The gateway is Barreirinhas, and 4x4 trucks cross the river and the sand to the edge of the field for the afternoon, when the light is low and the water warm; longer treks cross the whole field over days, sleeping in fishing villages on the far side. 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From the crest the pattern reveals itself: white ridges running to the horizon with a blue lake cupped in nearly every hollow. Come back as the sun drops and the sand takes on orange and pink, the shadows between the dunes stretching long and blue while a lake below goes glassy and doubles the sky.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F103\u002Fe1.webp","Dominiquemel16 Ramos \u002F Pexels",{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":196},"Swim in a lake that the rain built","Wade into one of the clear lagoons pooled between the dunes — fresh rainwater over a floor of pale sand, warm at the shallow edges and startlingly cold where it deepens. For a few months a year this is some of the finest natural swimming anywhere on the coast.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F103\u002Fe2.webp","\"Lençóis Maranhenses\" by Miradas.com.br · CC BY 2.0 (creativecommons.org\u002Flicenses\u002Fby\u002F2.0)",{"title":198,"description":199,"imageUrl":200,"attribution":201},"Cross the dune field on foot with a guide","There are no paths and no landmarks, so a local guide reads the shape of the dunes to lead you from one lagoon to the next, barefoot over ridges of warm sand. The walk between swims is half the point: silence, white sand underfoot, and the next blue pool rising into view.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F103\u002Fe3.webp","Luiza Carvalho \u002F Unsplash",{"title":203,"description":204,"imageUrl":205,"attribution":206},"Stand in the silence of the empty white","Walk beyond the lagoons into a stretch of pure sand where there is no plant, no sound and no marker in any direction. The scale is disorienting — a bright, empty world that feels closer to another planet than to a beach, and utterly quiet apart from the wind.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F103\u002Fe4.webp","Roi Dimor \u002F Unsplash",[208,213],{"boxType":209,"title":210,"body":211,"deepBody":212,"sourceNote":157},"wildlife","How fish appear in vanishing lakes","Each lake dries up completely for part of the year, yet fish swim in them every wet season. They survive in ways built for a place that keeps disappearing.","When the rains come, some fish reach the new lagoons through channels linked to nearby rivers. Others never leave: the wolf fish burrows down into damp mud and lies dormant through the dry months, while the small jacundá lays eggs in the sand that hatch only when the water returns.",{"boxType":214,"title":215,"body":216,"deepBody":217,"sourceNote":157},"culture","The only people who never leave","A couple of lagoons deep in the park never dry out, and around them sit Queimada dos Britos and Baixa Grande — the only permanent settlements in a landscape that otherwise empties and refills each year.","A few dozen people live on these interior oases, fishing and farming beside water that lasts all year. There are no roads in; reaching either community means hours of walking across open dunes, which is why they stayed all but unknown to outsiders for generations.",[219,224,229,234,239,244],{"phenomenon":220,"peakMonths":221,"note":222,"requiresDarkSky":223,"sortOrder":90},"highwater",[115,120,125,162],"Once the rains stop, the dune hollows brim with thousands of clear, rain-fed lagoons, at their fullest and up to three metres deep from about June through September. Then the sun drains them, and by the year's end the valleys shrink to bone-white empty sand.",false,{"phenomenon":225,"peakMonths":226,"note":227,"requiresDarkSky":223,"sortOrder":228},"chapter_quiet",[90,95,100,105,110],"January to May brings the rain that makes this place: it soaks the sand until the valleys begin filling. Skies stay cloudy and tracks turn muddy, and the lagoons are still shallow. The clear, deep pools arrive only once the rain stops. Nothing closes.",50,{"phenomenon":230,"peakMonths":231,"note":232,"requiresDarkSky":223,"sortOrder":233},"chapter_peak",[115,120,125],"With the rains stopped, the water table stands at its highest: thousands of clear lagoons brim between the white dunes, up to three metres deep and cool for swimming under dry, sunny skies. This is the park at its fullest, Lagoa Azul and Bonita included.",51,{"phenomenon":235,"peakMonths":236,"note":237,"requiresDarkSky":223,"sortOrder":238},"chapter_edge",[162],"By September the sun is draining the lagoons at about a metre a month. The big, named pools such as Azul and Bonita still hold enough water to swim in, but the smallest have begun to shrink back into bare sand. 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