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The furniture, the ornaments, the desks and the light fittings all stand where they stood on the morning of 5 October 1910, when the republic was declared and the Braganzas went. Nothing here is a period reconstruction: you walk through rooms someone walked out of. Since 2022 a purpose-built wing beside it has held the Royal Treasure, the crown jewels of Portugal.\n\nTwo disasters put the palace on this hill: the 1755 earthquake drove the court out of the city, and in 1794 the huge wooden building they had raised up here burned as well. Its stone replacement was designed to rival any palace in Europe, and then the money ran out, a French army crossed the border and the royal family sailed for Brazil. It was 1861 before a king made this the official royal residence. 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Pens, spectacles, photographs and a clock are still where they were left rather than arranged for display. Few interiors in Lisbon are kept this close to the state their occupants left them in.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1315\u002Fe0-e8f5.webp","Alegna13 \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":180},"Take the treasure wing last","The Royal Treasure occupies a purpose-built wing beside the palace, and it is a completely different kind of room: dark, sealed, and arranged around single objects in cases. Go through it after the apartments rather than before, so that you meet the regalia having already walked the rooms the family actually lived in.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1315\u002Fe1-38e2.webp",{"title":197,"description":198,"imageUrl":199,"attribution":200},"Walk round to the missing wing","Go outside and along the flank of the building to the point where the stonework simply stops. That gap is a wing that was designed, begun and abandoned. Work on it stopped for lack of money and was never resumed, so the palace was still unfinished when the monarchy ended.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1315\u002Fe2-1e38.webp","GualdimG \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[202,207,211,216],{"boxType":203,"title":204,"body":205,"deepBody":206,"sourceNote":150},"history","A palace that was never finished","Building began in 1796 to replace a wooden palace that burned, and one wing was never put up at all.","The court had been living in the Real Barraca, an enormous timber complex raised after the 1755 earthquake, and it burned in 1794. The stone replacement was designed on the scale of the great European palaces, but the Napoleonic invasion, the flight of the court to Brazil and a permanent shortage of money stopped the work. The gap on the south side is the wing that was never built.",{"boxType":203,"title":208,"body":209,"deepBody":210,"sourceNote":150},"The morning the monarchy ended","The republic was proclaimed in the city while the household was still in the building, and the palace was shut rather than cleared out.","Successive governments left it that way, so no curator ever chose what should stand where. The objects on the desks are where their owners put them, which is a different thing from a period room assembled to look convincing. Forty-nine years of use stopped in a single morning.",{"boxType":212,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","A crown nobody ever wore","Portuguese kings were acclaimed rather than crowned. At the ceremony the crown rested on a cushion beside the new monarch instead of on his head.","The arrangement said where the authority came from: it was held to come from God directly, rather than to be conferred by a bishop placing something on him. The crown was therefore made to be looked at rather than worn, and it is now the centre of the Royal Treasure next door.",{"boxType":217,"title":218,"body":219,"deepBody":220,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","The money went inside, not on the walls","Later kings spent what they had on decorating the rooms rather than on completing the building, which is why the richest interiors in Portugal sit in an unfinished palace.","Room after room was hung, gilded and furnished through the nineteenth century while the south side stayed a gap in the elevation. Successive kings treated the palace as an interior to be finished rather than a facade to be completed. 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