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One route leads from Egyptian and Mesopotamian carving through Greek coins, Islamic ceramics, Armenian manuscripts and Japanese prints into European painting by Rembrandt, Rubens, Turner, Manet and Degas. The last room is kept dark, and it holds glass and jewellery by René Lalique.\n\nGulbenkian was an Armenian born in Istanbul who negotiated the oil concessions of the Middle East and kept five per cent of the company for himself. He collected for sixty years, bought quietly, and refused to lend anything to anyone. He came to neutral Lisbon to sit out the war, stayed until he died, and left his fortune and his collection to a Portuguese foundation. 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The sequence is the collector's own, so walking it in order is following one man's eye moving across four thousand years.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1317\u002Fe0-bb38.webp","Sailko \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":198,"description":199,"imageUrl":200,"attribution":201},"Give the dark Lalique room ten minutes","In the last room, give the glass and jewellery ten minutes rather than two. The light is kept low to protect the enamel and horn, so the pieces only become clear once your eyes have adjusted.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1317\u002Fe1-d34c.webp","bm.iphone \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":203,"description":204,"imageUrl":205,"attribution":206},"Sit by the lake in the park afterwards","Go out into the park afterwards and sit by the lake. It has its own entrances apart from the museum and is used mostly by people who live in the surrounding streets rather than by visitors. The foundation laid it out for public use, and it is one of the few large open spaces in this district.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1317\u002Fe2-d698.webp","GualdimG \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[208,213,217,222],{"boxType":209,"title":210,"body":211,"deepBody":212,"sourceNote":150},"history","Five per cent of the oil","They called him Mister Five Per Cent, and the share was his because he had put the oil deals together himself.","He brokered the concessions between the Ottoman government and the European companies and kept a five per cent interest in the result. That income bought art at a rate few private collectors have matched, and he bought to keep: he rarely sold and turned down most requests to lend.",{"boxType":209,"title":214,"body":215,"deepBody":216,"sourceNote":150},"Why the collection is in Lisbon","Britain declared him a technical enemy in 1940 and seized his assets, which is why he ended up looking for a neutral country.","He had followed the Iranian legation to Vichy France, and that move was enough for London to treat an old business partner as hostile property. He reached Lisbon in April 1942, took a suite at the Hotel Aviz and stayed there thirteen years until his death. His will turned a private taste into a Portuguese national institution.",{"boxType":218,"title":219,"body":220,"deepBody":221,"sourceNote":150},"culture","A room kept dark for glass","About a hundred and seventy pieces, the largest group of Lalique's work anywhere, most of it bought straight from his workshop.","Gulbenkian and René Lalique were friends, and a good part of the group was commissioned rather than bought on the market. The room is kept dim because enamel, horn and gemstones craze or fade under strong light, and the cases are deliberately spaced as well.",{"boxType":223,"title":224,"body":225,"deepBody":226,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","A building made to fit a collection","The museum was designed in the 1960s around this specific set of objects, in a park the foundation laid out.","Portuguese architects working in a modern style made the galleries low and long, with courtyards and glass walls onto the garden so that daylight can be let in and controlled. 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