[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"dest-7e8a5caa5aa9":3,"categories-en":29,"detail-extra-1325":168,"travel-countries-en":311},{"id":4,"publicId":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"shortDescription":8,"categoryId":9,"importance":10,"lng":11,"lat":12,"coverImageUrl":13,"country":14,"region":15,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":-1,"kind":17,"cityGuideId":18,"description":19,"countryCode":20,"adminArea":9,"elevationM":9,"bestMonths":21,"tips":22,"howToGetThere":9,"youtubeIds":23,"timezone":25,"cityGuideSlug":26,"cityGuidePublicId":27,"cityGuideName":15,"poiTheme":28,"poiNeighborhood":7},1325,"7e8a5caa5aa9","lisbon-chiado","Chiado","Lisbon's shopping and café quarter, gutted by fire in 1988 and rebuilt behind its own surviving fronts so the join is hard to find.",null,2,-9.14222,38.71051,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1325\u002Fcover-f3dc.webp","Portugal","Lisbon",0,"city_poi",8,"Chiado is where Lisbon has shopped, read and sat down for two centuries: a bookshop trading since 1732, the cafés where the writers argued, the opera house, the department stores. It sits between the flat Baixa and the ridge above it, so almost nothing in it is level. At about four in the morning on 25 August 1988 a fire started in one of the stores and spread through eighteen buildings before it was stopped.\n\nTwo people died and the middle of the quarter was gutted. What matters here is how the city rebuilt it. The work went to Álvaro Siza Vieira and ran through the 1990s: he kept the surviving street fronts and the eighteenth-century plan and put new buildings behind them. Standing on Rua Garrett now, you cannot easily tell which fronts are original and which are old walls with a 1990s building behind them. That was exactly the aim, and it worked.","PT",[],"orientation|**Arrive by metro at the top, not on foot from the bottom** — Baixa-Chiado has an exit at street level up here, which saves the steepest climb in the centre of the city.\ntiming|**Late afternoon is the crush** — the streets are narrow, the cafés put chairs out, and the pavements from four o'clock onward are the busiest in the city centre.\nart|**The bronze figure outside A Brasileira is the standard photograph** — the seated statue of Fernando Pessoa on Rua Garrett has a small queue beside it all day, and people use it mainly as a place to meet.",[24],"XtoRClsNbeM","Europe\u002FLisbon","lisbon","bf583da578bb","neighborhood",[30,35,40,45,50,55,60,65,70,75,80,85,90,95,100,105,110,115,120,124,129,134,139,144,149,153,158,163],{"id":31,"slug":32,"name":33,"color":34},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":36,"slug":37,"name":38,"color":39},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":41,"slug":42,"name":43,"color":44},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":46,"slug":47,"name":48,"color":49},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":51,"slug":52,"name":53,"color":54},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":56,"slug":57,"name":58,"color":59},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":61,"slug":62,"name":63,"color":64},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":66,"slug":67,"name":68,"color":69},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":71,"slug":72,"name":73,"color":74},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":76,"slug":77,"name":78,"color":79},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":81,"slug":82,"name":83,"color":84},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":86,"slug":87,"name":88,"color":89},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":91,"slug":92,"name":93,"color":94},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":96,"slug":97,"name":98,"color":99},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":101,"slug":102,"name":103,"color":104},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":106,"slug":107,"name":108,"color":109},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":111,"slug":112,"name":113,"color":114},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":116,"slug":117,"name":118,"color":119},1,"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":10,"slug":121,"name":122,"color":123},"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":125,"slug":126,"name":127,"color":128},3,"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":130,"slug":131,"name":132,"color":133},4,"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":135,"slug":136,"name":137,"color":138},5,"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":140,"slug":141,"name":142,"color":143},6,"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":145,"slug":146,"name":147,"color":148},7,"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":18,"slug":150,"name":151,"color":152},"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":154,"slug":155,"name":156,"color":157},12,"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":159,"slug":160,"name":161,"color":162},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":164,"slug":165,"name":166,"color":167},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"gallery":169,"exps":187,"boxes":203,"seasons":224,"near":225,"peers":226},[170,172,175,178,181,184],{"url":13,"attribution":171},"Scalleja [2] \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":173,"attribution":174},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1325\u002Fg0-a346.webp","Jules Verne Times Two \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":176,"attribution":177},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1325\u002Fg1-b103.webp","Luiyo from Madrid, Spain \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":179,"attribution":180},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1325\u002Fg2-ccfa.webp","Mike Steele \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":182,"attribution":183},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1325\u002Fg3-dc61.webp","Luca Galuzzi (Lucag) \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":185,"attribution":186},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1325\u002Fg4-691b.webp","João Carvalho \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[188,193,198],{"title":189,"description":190,"imageUrl":191,"attribution":192},"Walk Rua Garrett looking for the joins","Go the length of the street and try to tell the surviving buildings from the reconstructed ones. Look at how deep the windows sit, where the roofline meets the front, how the stonework at ground level is finished. Most people cannot tell, which is precisely what the rebuilding set out to achieve.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1325\u002Fe0-5781.webp","Threeohsix \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":194,"description":195,"imageUrl":196,"attribution":197},"Go through the bookshop room by room","Walk into the Bertrand and keep walking. Each room opens into the next through a doorway cut in the wall, and the further back you go the quieter it gets, until you come out in the café at the end. The walk is the measure of how deep these blocks actually are.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1325\u002Fe1-0714.webp","Hugo Ferreira \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":199,"description":200,"imageUrl":201,"attribution":202},"Take a passage instead of the street","The quarter is threaded with ways around the climb: covered passages cut through the blocks, stairways between levels, and an iron lift at the Baixa edge. Pick one of the passages and follow it rather than the street. Several were added during the rebuilding, and they come out somewhere you did not expect.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1325\u002Fe2-c7d1.webp","Ввласенко \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[204,209,214,219],{"boxType":205,"title":206,"body":207,"deepBody":208,"sourceNote":9},"history","Four in the morning, 25 August 1988","It began in the Grandella store on Rua do Carmo and ran through timber-framed blocks that had stood since the eighteenth-century rebuilding.","A firefighter and a resident were killed and dozens were injured. The gutted area came to roughly the size of several football pitches, sitting in the middle of a working shopping district rather than at its edge. It broke out at about four in the morning, before the shops opened.",{"boxType":210,"title":211,"body":212,"deepBody":213,"sourceNote":9},"architecture","Facades kept, buildings replaced","The surviving street fronts were not taken down. New buildings were put up behind them, keeping the eighteenth-century plan of the quarter.","Álvaro Siza took the Pritzker Prize in 1992 while the work here was still running. The alternative on the table had been a modern district dropped into the middle of historic Lisbon, and it was rejected. What he built is invisible to most people on Rua Garrett today, which was the entire intention.",{"boxType":215,"title":216,"body":217,"deepBody":218,"sourceNote":9},"culture","A bookshop from 1732","The Bertrand on Rua Garrett has been trading since 1732 and is a working shop rather than a museum piece.","It moved into this address after the earthquake and has been selling books here ever since, which makes it one of the oldest continuously operating bookshops anywhere. The rooms run back one behind another, each with a doorway cut through, and the last one is a café. Nothing about the interior is staged for visitors.",{"boxType":220,"title":221,"body":222,"deepBody":223,"sourceNote":9},"did_you_know","A quarter on a slope, linked by lifts and stairs","The metro station here has one exit down in the lower town and another up on the ridge, which makes it the shortest lift in the city.","The Santa Justa lift, an iron tower built in the 1900s, does much the same climb a few streets away and charges for it. Between those two, and the covered passages threaded through the blocks, hardly anyone in Chiado walks the full height of the hill. 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