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The Jesuits raised it in the 1560s and roofed the nave with a painted timber panel rather than a stone vault, one of the earliest ceilings of its kind in Portugal. The side chapels get steadily richer as you walk up towards the altar, and the last one on the left was not built here at all.\n\nJoão V ordered it from Rome in 1740, in lapis lazuli, amethyst, agate, alabaster, porphyry, gilt bronze and silver, and it arrived by ship. The king died in 1750, a year before it was reassembled and shown. 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From the nave the panels look like oil paintings; from a couple of metres away you can see that they are made of thousands of small cut pieces of glass and stone. The change only happens at close range, and that is the point of the technique.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1305\u002Fe0-1dce.webp","Alvesgaspar \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":177},"Walk up the nave and watch the chapels get richer","Start at the door and take each side chapel in turn instead of going straight to the famous one. The materials get richer as you go: painted wood, then tile, then marble, then gilt. Each chapel was paid for by a different donor, so the sequence shows how a church of this date was funded.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1305\u002Fe1-ff5c.webp",{"title":197,"description":198,"imageUrl":199,"attribution":177},"Stand under the middle of the ceiling","Find the centre of the nave and look up. The painted architecture on the flat timber panel only lines up from this one spot; step a few metres either way and the perspective falls apart. It is a trick built for a congregation that stood where you are standing.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1305\u002Fe2-bc0a.webp",[201,206,211,215],{"boxType":202,"title":203,"body":204,"deepBody":205,"sourceNote":150},"history","A chapel built in Rome and shipped to Lisbon","It was designed by Nicola Salvi and Luigi Vanvitelli, who at the time were building the Trevi Fountain and the royal palace at Caserta.","Roman workshops put the chapel up in full between 1742 and 1747, so that Pope Benedict XIV could bless it while it still stood in Rome. It was then taken apart, crated and carried to Lisbon in three ships. Assembly here was finished in 1751, four years after it left.",{"boxType":207,"title":208,"body":209,"deepBody":210,"sourceNote":150},"culture","The altar pictures are mosaics","Mosaic was chosen partly because it could cross the sea intact; paint on canvas would have arrived from Rome damaged.","The pieces are cut so small that at normal viewing distance the surface reads as brushstrokes. Rome had developed the technique for another reason entirely: damp was destroying the altar paintings in its churches. These came out of the Vatican mosaic workshop.",{"boxType":202,"title":212,"body":213,"deepBody":214,"sourceNote":150},"The order that built it was expelled","When the order was expelled the church passed to the Santa Casa da Misericórdia, a lay charitable brotherhood that still owns and runs it.","The Marquis of Pombal, rebuilding the city and pulling power towards the crown, accused the Jesuits of conspiracy and banished them from Portugal and its empire. 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