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The sellers unpack in front of you, the best of what they brought is still on the ground, and the market assembles around you rather than appearing finished.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1329\u002Fe0-137a.webp",{"title":191,"description":192,"imageUrl":193,"attribution":182},"Buy something worthless on purpose","Pick up one small object nobody else wants — a spoon, a badge, a photograph of strangers — and ask the price. The exchange costs a euro or two, it is conducted in gestures if you have no Portuguese, and it is the difference between watching the market and using it.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1329\u002Fe1-590a.webp",{"title":195,"description":196,"imageUrl":197,"attribution":182},"Walk the square end to end between the churches","Start at the Pantheon end and go down through the stalls to São Vicente at the other. The market fills the slope between two of the biggest churches in the city, so walking it in one straight line lets you see the market and both monuments in the same morning.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1329\u002Fe2-197b.webp",[199,204,209,214],{"boxType":200,"title":201,"body":202,"deepBody":203,"sourceNote":150},"history","Eight centuries of the same market","A fair under this name has been recorded in Lisbon since the 1200s, moving around the city before settling here.","It was held at different sites over the centuries and reached Campo de Santa Clara in 1882. The name means thieves' fair, and it describes where second-hand goods came from in a medieval city rather than accusing the sellers of today. What has not changed is the principle: anyone may lay out what they own and sell it.",{"boxType":205,"title":206,"body":207,"deepBody":208,"sourceNote":150},"culture","Where the tiles on the ground came from","Portugal has tightened the law and the police do check, but single old tiles are still a standard item on the blankets.","Stripping tile panels off derelict or unguarded houses was a trade for decades, and this square was where they surfaced. A single tile bought from a blanket is a piece of a building somebody else once lived in.",{"boxType":210,"title":211,"body":212,"deepBody":213,"sourceNote":150},"local_secret","Two markets in one morning","What is on a blanket has no market price, because it comes out of a flat being cleared or somebody's own cupboards.","The dealers at the tables price by type of object and expect to be bargained down within a set range. The blanket sellers name whatever seems reasonable at that moment, so the same object can carry two very different prices twenty metres apart. Dealers also arrive first and are working through the goods before the square fills.",{"boxType":215,"title":216,"body":217,"deepBody":218,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","An empty square between market days","The market has no permanent structures: blankets, tables and stalls go up in the morning, and by mid-afternoon the cobbles are bare again.","Turn up on any other day and Campo de Santa Clara is a long sloping square with trees and nothing on it, which is why people arriving on a Wednesday assume they have the wrong address. 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