[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"dest-764306aacf83":3,"detail-extra-1316":33,"categories-en":173,"travel-countries-en":312},{"id":4,"publicId":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"shortDescription":8,"categoryId":9,"importance":10,"lng":11,"lat":12,"coverImageUrl":13,"country":14,"region":15,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":-1,"kind":17,"cityGuideId":18,"description":19,"countryCode":20,"adminArea":9,"elevationM":9,"bestMonths":21,"tips":22,"howToGetThere":9,"youtubeIds":23,"timezone":28,"cityGuideSlug":29,"cityGuidePublicId":30,"cityGuideName":15,"poiTheme":31,"poiNeighborhood":32},1316,"764306aacf83","lisbon-fronteira-palace-palacio-fronteira","Fronteira Palace (Palácio Fronteira)","A Lisbon hunting pavilion of 1671 still lived in by the family who built it, its tiled horsemen doubled in the water tank below.",null,3,-9.18019,38.74044,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1316\u002Fcover-c9be.webp","Portugal","Lisbon",0,"city_poi",8,"Fronteira Palace is covered in tiles that carry the subject of each room rather than a pattern round the edges. The Battle Room is lined with panels of the war just ended, fought to take the crown back from Spain, painted in purple and blue with the marquis himself in the middle of the fighting. Outside, a formal garden runs down to a rectangular water tank. Above the water stands the Gallery of the Kings: busts of Portuguese monarchs in niches, and below them fourteen life-size tiled horsemen doubled in the reflection.\n\nElsewhere there are monkeys playing instruments, cats, a grotto room, and benches tiled with animals. This is the largest set of seventeenth-century tiles still in the place they were made for, and they survive because the family never had to sell the house. João Mascarenhas, first Marquis of Fronteira, had the place built in 1671 and 1672 as a hunting pavilion outside the city, and his descendants have never left. 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Fourteen life-size horsemen in tile stand in an arcade above the water, and busts of Portuguese kings sit in niches above them. On a still morning the whole gallery appears upside down in the water, which is the view the garden was designed to give.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1316\u002Fe0-0f1e.webp","MFREYNAUD51 \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":58,"description":59,"imageUrl":60,"attribution":45},"See the war painted on the Battle Room walls","On the guided visit, work along the panels in order rather than standing back from them. The commanders are named, the ground is recognisable, and the marquis put himself in the middle of the fighting. A whole room was tiled to say which side this house had been on.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1316\u002Fe1-645a.webp",{"title":62,"description":63,"imageUrl":64,"attribution":48},"Look for the monkeys","In the garden and the smaller rooms, between the grand panels, there are tiled monkeys playing instruments, cats, and hunting scenes on the benches. The same workshops that painted the battles painted these too, which shows that in the 1670s tile was an everyday decoration as well as a way of making grand statements.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1316\u002Fe2-8b90.webp",[66,71,76,81],{"boxType":67,"title":68,"body":69,"deepBody":70,"sourceNote":9},"history","A house built on a war that had just been won","The palace went up in 1671, three years after Portugal's independence from Spain was finally recognised.","The Restoration War ran from 1640 to 1668, and the marquis who built this house fought in it. The Battle Room is his own account of a war he had lived through, ordered while the events were still in living memory and placed in the room where he received his guests. Both the marquis and the Spanish general appear in the panels.",{"boxType":72,"title":73,"body":74,"deepBody":75,"sourceNote":9},"culture","Tiled horsemen instead of stone statues","In the open air the choice was tile rather than marble, and it was not a compromise: the panels were waterproof, made to size, and colour-fast.","Stone sculpture at this scale would have cost a fortune and worn badly outdoors. Tile did not: the panels were painted and fired in a workshop, arrived ready to fix to the wall, and have held their colour in the open for three and a half centuries.",{"boxType":77,"title":78,"body":79,"deepBody":80,"sourceNote":9},"did_you_know","Still the family's house","Palaces that changed hands lost their tiles: panels were prised off and sold by the square metre. This one never changed hands.","The stripping went on through the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, as houses passed out of the hands that had built them. Here a single line of owners rode out the fall of the monarchy and everything after it, so the largest body of seventeenth-century azulejo still stands in the rooms it was painted for.",{"boxType":82,"title":83,"body":84,"deepBody":85,"sourceNote":9},"architecture","A pavilion that became a residence","A hunting pavilion needed no service wings, so the house is a compact block whose few grand rooms open straight onto the gardens.","Lisbon has since grown out this far. A house designed to stand in open country now sits behind a wall in a suburb. 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