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Rua do Benformoso is lined with Bangladeshi, Chinese, Indian, Nepalese, Brazilian and African shops. Above it the lanes climb in steps, narrow enough that laundry crosses the gap, with doors opening straight onto staircases and a tiled saint on a corner. The name means the Moorish quarter, and it is the oldest thing about the place.\n\nWhen Lisbon fell to Afonso Henriques in 1147, the Muslims who survived were moved outside the wall onto this slope, and it has been the poor side of the hill for most of the time since. In the nineteenth century it produced fado: Maria Severa lived on Rua do Capelão, sang in taverns, took an aristocrat as a lover and died in 1846 at twenty-six. Nobody ever recorded her voice, but she was written about by name, and the lane still carries hers. 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Come in the morning or afternoon.\norientation|**Martim Moniz has been a building site for years** — the square at the bottom is not the quarter and does not represent it; what you came for is the lanes above it.\netiquette|**These are people's doorways** — keep the camera low, and do not photograph anyone talking on a doorstep without asking first.",[163,164,165],"3fdt5ZlH0zs","89d2Rvma5QU","Sq4M8F6BKN0","Europe\u002FLisbon","lisbon","bf583da578bb","neighborhood",{"gallery":171,"exps":187,"boxes":198,"seasons":218,"near":219,"peers":220},[172,174,176,179,182,185],{"url":153,"attribution":173},"Misa.stefanovic.07 \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":175,"attribution":173},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1326\u002Fg0-72c8.webp",{"url":177,"attribution":178},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1326\u002Fg1-7c4b.webp","Andrzej Otrębski \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":180,"attribution":181},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1326\u002Fg2-d46b.webp","Andreas Manessinger \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":183,"attribution":184},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1326\u002Fg3-488f.webp","Jens Cederskjold from København S, Danmark \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":186,"attribution":173},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1326\u002Fg4-f5c9.webp",[188,193],{"title":189,"description":190,"imageUrl":191,"attribution":192},"Climb from the square into the lanes","Start at Martim Moniz and take any of the stairs on the uphill side. Within two minutes the traffic is gone. Keep choosing whichever turning goes up, and you will come out somewhere near the castle wall without ever having decided on a route. It is the quickest transition from modern city to medieval hillside anywhere in Lisbon.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1326\u002Fe0-9a0a.webp","Luxbao \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":194,"description":195,"imageUrl":196,"attribution":197},"Eat on Rua do Benformoso","Walk the length of this one street and read the signs: Bangladeshi grocers, Indian kitchens, Chinese wholesalers, African hairdressers. Then eat in whichever place is busiest with local customers rather than visitors. This street shows more clearly than anywhere else who has moved to Lisbon over the last fifty years.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1326\u002Fe1-3231.webp","Philip Mallis from Melbourne \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[199,204,209,213],{"boxType":200,"title":201,"body":202,"deepBody":203,"sourceNote":150},"history","The quarter created in 1147","The quarter had its own mosque and its own rules, and the walled town above it was reserved for Christians.","Lisbon had been under Muslim rule for four centuries before 1147. Those who stayed after the conquest were pushed onto this slope outside the wall, into a defined quarter with a boundary drawn for them. That population was gone within a few generations. The boundary is still the shape of the neighbourhood.",{"boxType":205,"title":206,"body":207,"deepBody":208,"sourceNote":150},"culture","The singer nobody ever recorded","Maria Severa is the first fado singer known by name, and everything said about her voice is second-hand — she died before recording existed.","Her affair with a nobleman is what carried fado out of these taverns and into drawing rooms, which is why a singer nobody could hear is remembered at all. What survives is a name, a lane, and a legend that fado singers have repeated ever since.",{"boxType":200,"title":210,"body":211,"deepBody":212,"sourceNote":150},"Where people from the former colonies arrived","The returnees came into a country that had just changed government and had nowhere to put them, so they went where the rent was low: these streets.","They arrived from Angola and Mozambique with what they could carry, and the count ran into hundreds of thousands. 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