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It starts with a plain seventeenth-century travelling coach with no springs at all, its body slung on leather straps, which tells you what a journey across Portugal actually felt like. It ends with the last royal carriages of the nineteenth century, upholstered, lamped and sprung. In between stand three that were never really vehicles.\n\nThose three were sent to Rome and back for a single day's use in 1716, and they have been kept ever since. What is worth doing is walking round behind them, because the whole design points that way. The driver's end is plain and the rear is a stage, with carved figures leaning outward over the axle so that they read from below. The bodies hang on leather straps rather than sitting on the frame, which is what passed for suspension. 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Most of the carving is there: gilded figures of oceans and continents piled above the axle. They were made that way because a crowd watching a procession sees each coach from behind as it passes, and those figures were there to tell the crowd how important Portugal was.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1320\u002Fe0-d2bd.webp",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":185},"Start with the coach that has no springs","Find the earliest vehicle in the hall, a plain leather-and-timber box slung on straps. A seventeenth-century monarch travelled in that. Looking at it first makes clear what the gilded coaches further down the room were for: they were no more comfortable, they were public display, paid for out of the crown's gold monopoly.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1320\u002Fe1-5128.webp",{"title":200,"description":201,"imageUrl":202,"attribution":203},"Finish with the last royal carriages","At the far end are the nineteenth-century royal carriages: plainer, fitted with springs, and closer to a car than to a parade float. The line stops in 1910, when the monarchy ended. Walking from the 1716 coaches down to these covers the whole working life of the Portuguese court.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1320\u002Fe2-dc91.webp","Pedro Ribeiro Simões from Lisboa, Portugal \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[205,210,215,220],{"boxType":206,"title":207,"body":208,"deepBody":209,"sourceNote":150},"history","What Brazilian gold paid for","Gold shipped from Brazil made João V the richest monarch in Europe, and he spent it on display abroad.","The crown took a fifth of everything mined, and for decades the fleets brought it into Lisbon by the ton. It paid for the convent-palace at Mafra, an aqueduct, a church establishment in Lisbon modelled on the papal court in Rome, and this embassy. Almost none of it went into farming or manufacturing at home, so when the gold ran out the country was left with the monuments and little else.",{"boxType":211,"title":212,"body":213,"deepBody":214,"sourceNote":150},"culture","Built in Rome for one afternoon","The 1716 embassy coaches were made in Roman workshops, used in a single procession, then shipped to Lisbon.","The point of the embassy was to be seen: Portugal wanted the pope to treat its king as the equal of the kings of France and Spain, and a procession through Rome was how that case was made. The coaches were built in Roman workshops for that one afternoon and then shipped home. Nothing was asked of them afterwards, and nothing was expected.",{"boxType":216,"title":217,"body":218,"deepBody":219,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","Founded by a queen, five years before the monarchy fell","Queen Amélia opened the museum in 1905, using the royal riding school as the gallery.","The carriages were already obsolete and the court was already unpopular. Opening them to the public was partly a way of preserving them and partly a way of showing the country what the monarchy had been. Five years later the royal family left Portugal, and the museum they had created outlasted the monarchy itself.",{"boxType":221,"title":222,"body":223,"deepBody":224,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","A new hall built for the coaches in 2015","The collection moved in 2015 into a raised concrete hall built for it by Paulo Mendes da Rocha.","The old riding school was a beautiful room but a poor home for the collection: daylight, humidity and lack of space are all hard on gilded wood and leather. The new building lifts the gallery above the street on columns, keeps temperature and humidity under control, and gives the coaches enough room to be walked all the way round instead of lined up against walls. 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