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The family vaults are the size of small buildings, with doors, windows, steps and curtains at the glass, and they stand along named streets lined with trees. You can look through the glass of many of them and see coffins on shelves, a chair, dried flowers, a photograph and the curtain still hanging. The cemetery covers more than twelve hectares and holds over seven thousand plots.\n\nThe ground opened in 1833, which makes it newer than almost everything you passed on the way up. The plots were bought the way a house is bought, and the families built on them accordingly, street by street, until the dead had addresses. Fernando Pessoa lay here until 1985, when he was moved down to Belém. Nothing about the place is arranged for visitors: funerals go on while you walk, and the chapels are private property rather than exhibits. The way to see it is to pick one avenue and follow it west, until the wall stops you and the ground drops away to the river.","PT",[],"safety|**Bring water and a hat** — the ground is high, steep and almost treeless in places, there is next to no drinking water inside, and the stone reflects the heat back at you.\netiquette|**Funerals happen while you walk** — this is a working cemetery, so put the camera away and lower your voice near any gathering, and do not photograph mourners.\nview|**Walk to the western wall** — the ground drops away to the river and the bridge from up here, which is the reason this hill was chosen and the reason the plots were expensive.",[163,164,165,166],"CWEVMzVoKyw","jMb1DJaPLY8","q1JGUapbHsg","FEeelRztig0","Europe\u002FLisbon","lisbon","bf583da578bb","historic","Campo de Ourique",{"gallery":173,"exps":189,"boxes":204,"seasons":225,"near":226,"peers":227},[174,176,179,182,184,187],{"url":153,"attribution":175},"Daniil Vasiliev from Berlin \u002F Saint-Petersburg, IP nets \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":177,"attribution":178},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1311\u002Fg0-3b2e.webp","Mark Ahsmann \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":180,"attribution":181},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1311\u002Fg1-1758.webp","Jules Verne Times Two \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":183,"attribution":181},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1311\u002Fg2-2b35.webp",{"url":185,"attribution":186},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1311\u002Fg3-6eb8.webp","Sonse \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":188,"attribution":181},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1311\u002Fg4-8e8c.webp",[190,194,199],{"title":191,"description":192,"imageUrl":193,"attribution":175},"Walk one street and look in the windows","Pick a numbered avenue and go slowly along it, looking through the glass in the chapel doors. Inside you see coffins on shelves, a chair for a visitor, dried flowers and sometimes a photograph. Each chapel belongs to one family, and the cemetery is laid out in named streets, so walking them is the way the ground was meant to be seen.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1311\u002Fe0-dbea.webp",{"title":195,"description":196,"imageUrl":197,"attribution":198},"Find the pyramid","Follow the cypress avenue to the Palmela vault. It is a stone pyramid standing over an underground crypt, built in 1848 in its own plot, and it is far larger than any of the mausoleums around it. The inside opens only on the city's guided visits.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1311\u002Fe1-cfe7.webp","Marcelo \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":200,"description":201,"imageUrl":202,"attribution":203},"Ride the 28 to the end and start here","Take the tram to its terminus rather than getting off in the tourist stretch. The gate is across the square from the tracks, and arriving this way puts the cemetery at the beginning of a downhill walk back into the city instead of at the end of an uphill one.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1311\u002Fe2-98b1.webp","Susanne Nilsson \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[205,210,215,220],{"boxType":206,"title":207,"body":208,"deepBody":209,"sourceNote":150},"history","Opened because of cholera","Church burial had been the rule, but the disease killed faster than the parishes could bury, and the churchyards became both full and dangerous.","The city took the western hill, and by 1835 the ground was under municipal management. In 1838 the council wrote to Paris asking for the regulations and the plan of Père Lachaise, which is the model behind most nineteenth-century European cemeteries, this one included.",{"boxType":211,"title":212,"body":213,"deepBody":214,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","Houses, not graves","Each vault has a door, windows, steps and curtains at the glass, because relatives came to sit with their dead rather than to stand at a graveside.","A tomb like this showed a family's standing, since it needed a plot, an architect and a mason, and it kept the family together above ground instead of under it. Many are still furnished with a chair and a table. The names on the doors are the merchant and professional houses of nineteenth-century Lisbon.",{"boxType":216,"title":217,"body":218,"deepBody":219,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","A pyramid over a crypt","Giuseppe Cinatti, an Italian architect working in Portugal, designed it, and it is usually described as the largest private burial vault in Europe.","It stands in a plot of its own at the end of a cypress avenue, and the interior is opened only on guided visits. Like every other chapel here it holds a whole family rather than marking one grave, at a size no other family in this cemetery could pay for.",{"boxType":221,"title":222,"body":223,"deepBody":224,"sourceNote":150},"culture","The families who bought these plots","The families in these streets are the merchants and professionals who left the old quarters as the city expanded.","The same money built the avenues and apartment blocks of the nineteenth-century city, and it paid for a plot up here when the owner died. 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