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Rome founded Olisipo on this hill, and in AD 57 the theatre was rebuilt in marble brought from the Alentejo and stone from the Sintra hills. The work was paid for by Caius Heius Primus, a former slave freed by an important family, who had grown rich and had his own name cut into the inscription across the stage front, beside the emperor Nero's.\n\nFor most of the two thousand years since, this was invisible. The theatre went out of use, the slope was built over, and Lisbon lived on top of it without knowing. Excavation has run in stages, so what you walk down into is the part that has been cleared rather than the whole building. The museum above was designed not to touch the ruin: modern floor and concrete stop wherever Roman stone begins, and the joins are visible as you descend. What you can stand inside is only the theatre. 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The slope you are on is the original cut into the hill, and the audience sat here facing the river. It is the only place in Lisbon where you can stand inside a Roman public building rather than look at a fragment of one.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1309\u002Fe0-70ba.webp",{"title":186,"description":187,"imageUrl":188,"attribution":171},"Look up from the stage","Stand on the stage floor and look back at the seating and then at the modern city rising behind it. Houses, a road and a museum sit on top of the theatre, and the layers are visible in one glance. The rest of Roman Lisbon still lies under the city in the same way, but unexcavated.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1309\u002Fe2-09d2.webp",[190,195,200,204],{"boxType":191,"title":192,"body":193,"deepBody":194,"sourceNote":150},"history","Paid for by a freed slave","His name is cut into the stage front in letters the same size as the emperor's.","He held the post of perpetual augustalis, a priesthood open to freedmen, and paying for public works was how such men bought standing they could not inherit. The family that freed him, the Heia, turn up in inscriptions around the Mediterranean.",{"boxType":196,"title":197,"body":198,"deepBody":199,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","The name that was not erased","After Nero's fall the senate condemned his memory, and his name was chiselled off inscriptions across the empire. On this stone it was left alone.","The Lisbon stone still carries it, uncut and unhammered. Nobody has explained why: perhaps the order reached the western edge of the empire late, perhaps the man who had paid for the theatre was powerful enough locally to ignore it. Either way it is a rare survival of a name that was supposed to disappear.",{"boxType":191,"title":201,"body":202,"deepBody":203,"sourceNote":150},"Uncovered by the 1755 earthquake","The theatre was found in 1798, when the hillside was being cleared after the earthquake stripped the houses off it.","Twenty-five inscribed blocks were recorded at the time; nine are still known and five are in the museum. The site was then covered again and largely forgotten until systematic excavation resumed in the twentieth century. The museum that stands over it opened in 2015, and its structure was designed so that none of its weight rests on the Roman remains.",{"boxType":205,"title":206,"body":207,"deepBody":208,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","Marble carried across the country","Importing stone and hiring craftsmen from elsewhere in the empire marks Olisipo as a trading port with a river harbour, not a military garrison.","The seats were cut into the slope so that the audience looked out over the Tagus, and the rows still give that view today. 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