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The paths are dirt, the lake is green and half-choked, and the planting has simply gone on growing. In the middle of it stands the wreck of a glasshouse: most of its glass is gone, and plants push through the iron frame. Peacocks have the run of the place.\n\nIt has not been restored, and there is no sign that it will be. The estate was a walled enclosure attached to the Necessidades palace, kept for one family's own use, and it lost that use in 1910. Nothing has been decided for it since. The neighbourhood behaves as if it were a park, which is what it has become: dogs, runners, people reading on the grass, teenagers on the wall. 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From the side you can see the whole length of the frame with the ribs still in line, and from the end it is mostly sky. It is the reason most people come through the gates.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1333\u002Fe0-3b6c.webp",{"title":194,"description":195,"imageUrl":196,"attribution":177},"Find the shape of the old garden","Walk the slope from the top gate downwards and look for lines rather than for plants. Old trees standing in a row mark where an avenue ran, and the lake keeps its outline under the vegetation. Once you have found two of those lines the rest of the layout falls into place under the scrub.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1333\u002Fe1-cdf8.webp",{"title":198,"description":199,"imageUrl":200,"attribution":177},"Use it the way the neighbourhood does","Take a book or a coffee bought outside, find the open ground on the western slope and stay there. From it the river, the bridge and the far bank stand above the wall. There is nothing to buy, nothing to queue for and no route to follow, and on a weekday afternoon it is used almost entirely by the people who live around it.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1333\u002Fe2-4e67.webp",[202,207,212,217],{"boxType":203,"title":204,"body":205,"deepBody":206,"sourceNote":150},"history","The estate the last king left in 1910","The last king left the palace on this estate on 5 October 1910, and the grounds stopped being kept.","The royal family went into exile and the state took the property. The palace was put to government use and eventually became the Foreign Ministry; the hunting ground had no obvious purpose and was never given one. That gap of more than a century is why the trees, the lake and the paths look the way they do.",{"boxType":208,"title":209,"body":210,"deepBody":211,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","A glasshouse left to collapse","The frame was raised in 1857 by King Pedro V to hold a cactus collection, one of the oldest in Europe.","It is a circular iron-and-glass dome, the Estufa Circular, built when collecting succulents was a serious royal pursuit rather than a decorative one. Most of the glass has gone and plants grow through the ribs. Nothing about the ruin was staged: the fenced sections were closed off as the metalwork became unsafe, not to compose a view.",{"boxType":213,"title":214,"body":215,"deepBody":216,"sourceNote":150},"wildlife","What grows when nobody prunes","A hunting park left alone for a century has become woodland with the outline of the old formal garden still in it.","Avenues survive as lines of old trees, the lake keeps its shape under the vegetation, and specimen plantings from the royal period stand among self-sown scrub. It supports far more wildlife than a maintained park, because it has dense cover, standing dead wood and undisturbed ground in the middle of a crowded city.",{"boxType":218,"title":219,"body":220,"deepBody":221,"sourceNote":150},"local_secret","It became a park because people used it","It has never been given the status of a public park. 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