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Chinese emperors honoured Hua as the Western Marchmount, one of the five sacred mountains marking the edges of the known world, and Taoist temples still cling to its ledges as working sanctuaries; the mountain is a single mass of granite pushed up as one block, which is why its faces fall away almost vertically. The old way up is the Azure Dragon Ridge, where stone steps run down the spine of a knife-thin crest with the ground dropping away on both sides, and the Heavenly Stairs, near-vertical flights with chains, to the North Peak; a cable car now does the same in minutes, and the peaks are linked by paths along the ridges.\n\nThe plank walk is on the South Peak. You clip into a safety cable and lower yourself onto the Changkong plank road in the sky, a ribbon of wooden boards bolted to the vertical face of the cliff, with a drop of hundreds of metres beneath your heels, for a few dozen metres to a shrine and back the same way, passing the people coming the other direction; it is the reason many climb the mountain. The other reason is dawn. Climbers set out after dark to reach the East Peak before first light, renting a padded coat to sit out the cold wait, and the sun comes up over a sea of cloud and granite. Legend says the founding emperor of the Song dynasty gambled the mountain on a game of chess against a Taoist sage and lost, which is why the Taoists have it. 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Then come the Heavenly Stairs, cut into the rock at close to vertical, treads narrow and worn smooth by centuries of pilgrims, so you climb with your hands as much as your feet. Old pines grip the naked rock all the way up, roots splitting stone where no soil should hold them.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F289\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":191,"description":192,"imageUrl":193,"attribution":194},"Climb through the night to East Peak","Set out after dark to reach the East Peak platform before first light, renting a padded coat at the top to sit out the cold wait for the crowd of dawn-watchers. Tie your own red prayer ribbon to the iron chains as the sun lifts and the mist pooled in the valleys below catches fire.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F289\u002Fe3.webp","\"Sunrise on Mount Hua, China\" by Dimitry B \u002F Flickr (CC BY 2.0)",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":199},"Visit the cliff-side Taoist temples","Step into one of the shrines that cling to Hua's summits and ledges, still tended as a working Taoist sanctuary. Incense smoke, worn flagstones and the silence above the clouds make plain why hermits chose this mountain.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F289\u002Fe4.webp","\"20210920 - Mount Hua\" by JACK-L.COM \u002F Flickr (CC BY 2.0)",{"title":201,"description":202,"imageUrl":157,"attribution":157},"Edge along the Changkong plank walk","Clip into the safety cable and lower yourself onto the Changkong 'plank road in the sky' — a ribbon of wooden boards bolted to the vertical face of the South Peak, with a straight drop beneath your heels. It is the single most feared stretch on the mountain, shuffled sideways with your chest pressed to the rock.",[204,209,214],{"boxType":205,"title":206,"body":207,"deepBody":208,"sourceNote":157},"legend","The mountain lost in a chess game","Local legend says the founding emperor of the Song dynasty gambled Mount Hua itself on a game of chess against a Taoist sage — and lost the whole mountain.","The sage was Chen Tuan, a hermit who spent his last years on Hua. In the story, Emperor Taizu of Song wagered the mountain over a best-of-three match and was beaten; ever after, Hua was said to be exempt from imperial tax. A small cliff-side pavilion below the East Peak, reached by a pegged path, is still pointed out as the board where they played.",{"boxType":210,"title":211,"body":212,"deepBody":213,"sourceNote":157},"geology","Why Hua stands so sheer","Unlike mountains that rise in gentle slopes, Hua is a single mass of granite pushed up as one block, and its faces fall away almost vertically.","The peaks are the exposed core of a huge body of granite that cooled deep underground, then was lifted and stripped of its softer cover. Because the rock is split by near-vertical cracks rather than flat layers, erosion carved walls and spires instead of rounded ridges — which is why almost every route up is a stairway rather than a path.",{"boxType":215,"title":216,"body":217,"deepBody":218,"sourceNote":157},"culture","The western pillar of the empire","For over two thousand years Chinese emperors honoured Hua as the Western Marchmount, one of five sacred mountains marking the edges of the known world.","In the old cosmology the Five Great Mountains anchored the four directions and the centre, and Hua held the west, paired with the element metal and the season autumn. Emperors sent offerings to it as a duty of state, and a grand temple, the Xiyue Miao, was raised on the plain at its foot to receive them.",[220,227,232,236,240],{"phenomenon":221,"peakMonths":222,"note":224,"requiresDarkSky":225,"sortOrder":226},"chapter_quiet",[90,95,100,223,130],11,"November's first snow opens a frozen winter that runs into cold March: rime silvers the granite and dry days turn crystal-clear. But the summit freezes, ice glazes the chained stairs, the cable cars run a reduced service, and the plank walk and exposed trails shut on snow or wind.",false,50,{"phenomenon":228,"peakMonths":229,"note":230,"requiresDarkSky":225,"sortOrder":231},"chapter_peak",[105,110],"Spring brings the mildest, most comfortable climbing of the year, with long clear views between showers. Every route and both cable cars run. Red prayer ribbons flutter on the summit chains, and mist fills the valleys below.",51,{"phenomenon":221,"peakMonths":233,"note":234,"requiresDarkSky":225,"sortOrder":235},[115,120,125],"Summer is the rainy season and the busiest time, with school-holiday crowds jamming the stairways. Every trail and both cable cars stay open. The sea of clouds gathers after frequent showers, but afternoons fill with mist and the long clear views you climb for rarely appear.",52,{"phenomenon":228,"peakMonths":237,"note":238,"requiresDarkSky":225,"sortOrder":239},[162,163],"Autumn is the finest window: rain fades, the air turns cool and crystal-clear, and views run to the horizon over the granite petals. Everything runs, sunrise crowds gather on East Peak for the sea of clouds, and October nights start to freeze up top.",53,{"phenomenon":241,"peakMonths":242,"note":243,"requiresDarkSky":225,"sortOrder":244},"baseline",[],"The sheer granite peaks, plank walks and sea of clouds are here year-round; spring and autumn are mildest for the climb, and winter ices the chained 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