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The flood is slow. Rain that falls from November to March drains through the plain over months, spreading into a sheet of shallow water that drowns the grass and fills the lagoons, and then, from May, it recedes, concentrating the fish in shrinking pools and every animal that eats fish along the riverbanks. That is when the boats go out. In the dry months small open boats work the Cuiabá and Três Irmãos rivers near Porto Jofre, radios passing sightings between them, and a jaguar seen from the water is not a glimpse through leaves but a cat stretched full length on a sandbank, drinking, swimming or hunting caiman, with a hundred kilos of it in plain view.\n\nThe caimans are everywhere. The Pantanal is thought to hold around ten million yacaré caimans, the densest gathering of crocodilians on Earth, and in the dry season they crowd the drying pools and riverbanks by the thousand, lying jaw to tail in the mud. The Transpantaneira is the road in, 147 kilometres of dirt running south from Poconé across more than a hundred wooden bridges, with capybaras on the verges, caimans in every ditch and jabiru storks, hyacinth macaws and giant otters along the way; the road ends at Porto Jofre, where the jaguar boats leave. Giant anteaters cross the open grass, and the birdlife runs to more than 650 species. The best hour is the last: staying out on the plains until sundown, on the water or on the road, puts the light low over the wetland and the animals moving. The Pantanal is a flood that people build their year around, and the jaguars are the reason it is worth building.","BR",100,[105,110,115,120,125,162,163],9,10,"months|**Come in the dry season, roughly July to October** — as the floodwaters drain away, animals crowd the shrinking rivers and jaguar sightings peak through August and early September.\naccess|**Base yourself along the Transpantaneira** — driving the 147-kilometre dirt road slowly is a safari in itself; stay at a lodge near its southern end, closest to the jaguar rivers.\ntiming|**Head out at first light** — animals are most active in the cool early hours and the light is best; midday heat is fierce, so carry plenty of water and sun cover.",[166,167,168],"-TiZu5KAGtI","6mmsamrclv4","Vc1t8oQyJEk","America\u002FCampo_Grande",{"gallery":171,"exps":189,"boxes":210,"seasons":221,"near":244,"peers":245},[172,174,177,180,183,186],{"url":152,"attribution":173},"\"Sunrise at the wetlands of Pantanal\" by Nagarjun · CC BY 2.0 (creativecommons.org\u002Flicenses\u002Fby\u002F2.0)",{"url":175,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F228\u002Fg0.webp","Mateus Rauber \u002F Pexels",{"url":178,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F228\u002Fg1.webp","\"Blue blue macaw\" by Nagarjun · CC BY 2.0 (creativecommons.org\u002Flicenses\u002Fby\u002F2.0)",{"url":181,"attribution":182},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F228\u002Fg2.webp","Roger Antunes \u002F Pexels",{"url":184,"attribution":185},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F228\u002Fg3.webp","Christopher Borges \u002F Pexels",{"url":187,"attribution":188},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F228\u002Fg4.webp","\"One of the many rivers of Pantanal ...\" by berniedup · CC BY-SA 2.0 (creativecommons.org\u002Flicenses\u002Fby-sa\u002F2.0)",[190,195,200,205],{"title":191,"description":192,"imageUrl":193,"attribution":194},"Track jaguars from a boat","In the dry months, small open boats work the Cuiabá and Três Irmãos rivers near Porto Jofre, and radios pass sightings between them. The cats lie up on the banks in full daylight, so unbothered that a boat can hold position a few metres off. On a good outing you may watch one slide into the water after a caiman. Most visitors who spend two or three days here see at least one, which is true nowhere else.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F228\u002Fe1.webp","\"The vast wetlands of Pantanal\" by Nagarjun · CC BY 2.0 (creativecommons.org\u002Flicenses\u002Fby\u002F2.0)",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":199},"Drive the Transpantaneira road","Follow the 147-kilometre dirt road south from Poconé across more than a hundred wooden bridges. The drive is a safari in itself — caimans under the planks, capybaras at the verge, and hawks and toucans in the roadside trees. It is also the easiest place to find the Pantanal's outsized birds: deep-blue hyacinth macaws, giant jabiru storks and flocks of white egrets over the marshes. Hundreds of species share the floodplain, and the open country makes them easy to see.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F228\u002Fe2.webp","\"Gate of the Pantanal : over 140 km of road with more than 100 woodbridges, a marvelous window on the world's greatest wetland ...\" by berniedup · CC BY-SA 2.0 (creativecommons.org\u002Flicenses\u002Fby-sa\u002F2.0)",{"title":201,"description":202,"imageUrl":203,"attribution":204},"Stand among the caimans","Watch yacaré caimans crowd the drying pools and riverbanks by the thousand. At close range you can see them lying motionless with jaws open to cool in the heat, so densely packed that the mud seems to shift when they move.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F228\u002Fe3.webp","LEONARDO MENDES \u002F Pexels",{"title":206,"description":207,"imageUrl":208,"attribution":209},"Stay out on the plains until sundown","Time your last boat run or slow drive along the Transpantaneira to finish as the light goes, rather than heading back to the lodge early. With nothing on the flat horizon to cut it short, the glow spreads the full width of the sky while the day's birds cross back overhead to roost.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F228\u002Fe5.webp","Filipe Sizilio \u002F Unsplash",[211,216],{"boxType":212,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":157},"wildlife","Ten million caimans","The Pantanal is thought to hold around ten million yacaré caimans — the densest gathering of crocodilians anywhere on Earth.","A 1990s survey counted roughly ten million of them, and in the dry season they crowd the drying pools so thickly that riverbanks seem paved with reptiles. They are also the staple prey that helps sustain the wetland's famous jaguars.",{"boxType":217,"title":218,"body":219,"deepBody":220,"sourceNote":157},"geology","A land that breathes with water","The flood is slow. Water pools on the plain and creeps south for months, raising levels by two to five metres before draining away from June.","Rain falling on the surrounding highlands from November onward has almost nowhere to go on ground this flat, so it spreads sideways rather than running off, working its way toward the Paraguay River. Every breeding and feeding cycle in the wetland is timed to that rise and fall.",[222,229,234,239],{"phenomenon":223,"peakMonths":224,"note":226,"requiresDarkSky":227,"sortOrder":228},"chapter_quiet",[90,95,100,225,130],11,"The rains return and 80% of the wetland floods, peaking from January to March. Wildlife scatters across the water and jaguars become hard to find. Birdwatching takes over in this green season, but most lodges close from mid-November, and flooded side roads leave the ones still open reachable only by boat.",false,50,{"phenomenon":230,"peakMonths":231,"note":232,"requiresDarkSky":227,"sortOrder":233},"chapter_edge",[105,110,115],"The rains stop and the floodwaters drain off the plains. Mammals filter back into the open, side tracks dry out, and the Porto Jofre jaguar boats start up in June, sightings building toward the July peak under clear, starry skies.",51,{"phenomenon":235,"peakMonths":236,"note":237,"requiresDarkSky":227,"sortOrder":238},"chapter_peak",[120,125,162,163],"The waters have drained and wildlife crowds onto the shrinking Cuiabá and Três Irmãos rivers. Jaguars lie on the banks in daylight, and sightings are most reliable in July and August, with boats running daily out of Porto Jofre. Pink ipê trees flower over the drying plain.",52,{"phenomenon":240,"peakMonths":241,"note":242,"requiresDarkSky":227,"sortOrder":243},"baseline",[],"The wetland floods from November to March and drains from June; come in the dry months, July to October, when jaguars, caimans and giant otters crowd the shrinking 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