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Stand under the dome and you see two buildings at once. A painted band runs right round the base of the glass, 1,400 square metres of ships, ports and cargo across five continents, ten metres deep on its own. The dome peaks about forty metres above the floor. Inside the ring stands Tadao Ando's concrete wall, nine metres high and twenty-nine across, smooth and bare.\n\nThe hall was built to keep the price of bread steady. Paris traded and stored its grain here, in a ring of covered galleries around an open yard, and roofed that yard with a wooden dome which later burned down. Iron replaced it, then glass. When the building became a commodity exchange the painted band went up around the rotunda — look up and it is still there, running the whole way round above your head. Grain, sugar and coffee were dealt under it until the last market closed. Ando's concrete wall arrived a generation after that, and the art shown inside it changes completely between exhibitions.","FR",[],"access|**You can see the painted dome without a museum ticket** — The café opens straight off the entrance hall and looks onto the 1889 decoration. You still need a ticket to walk on the rotunda floor.\nlight|**Come on a bright day if you want to see the painting clearly** — The light comes in through the glass dome, so the colours lift in sunshine and turn grey and flat under cloud.\norientation|**The street around the building is a complete circle** — Rue de Viarmes rings the rotunda, so it is easy to set off the wrong way and walk three quarters of the circle before you reach the door.\ndetail|**Look for the casting holes in the concrete** — Ando's wall was poured in panels. The bolts that held the moulds left small round holes, now plugged, and they run in an exact grid.\nart|**Expect one big work standing in the middle** — The rotunda floor is regularly given over to a single work made for the space, and it changes how the whole room looks.",[163,164,165],"N7J-iK9S_Mo","mVNzPzeJmMU","wawmNmtd_Z8","Europe\u002FParis","paris","c362351fac8c","museum","Les Halles (1st)",{"gallery":172,"exps":186,"boxes":201,"seasons":217,"near":218,"peers":219},[173,175,177,180,183],{"url":153,"attribution":174},"Jean-Pierre Dalbéra \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":176,"attribution":174},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1058\u002Fg0-25e0.webp",{"url":178,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1058\u002Fg1-7bfb.webp","Mbzt \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":181,"attribution":182},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1058\u002Fg2-0740.webp","Chabe01 \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":184,"attribution":185},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1058\u002Fg3-9ca2.webp","Évariste-Vital Luminais \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[187,191,196],{"title":188,"description":189,"imageUrl":190,"attribution":174},"Walk the rim and follow the painted band round","Take the stairs to the walkway running along the rim of the concrete cylinder Tadao Ando built inside the hall, and go all the way round. On the inside you look down nine metres into the gallery below; on the outside you come close enough to the painted band to pick out single ships and crates. Follow that band the whole circle without stopping. Five painters divided the ring between them, each taking a continent or two, so the picture changes character where one stretch meets the next, and ice and furs give way to palms and elephants.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1058\u002Fe0-c398.webp",{"title":192,"description":193,"imageUrl":194,"attribution":195},"Walk the gap between the 1889 wall and the 2021 concrete","Step into the passage between Ando's concrete and the old stone ring, then stop halfway round. It is only a few paces wide and it curves out of sight in both directions. One wall is smooth grey concrete with nothing on it. The other is the old exchange wall, with its arches and carved mouldings.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1058\u002Fe2-1832.webp","Chatsam \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":197,"description":198,"imageUrl":199,"attribution":200},"Find Catherine de' Medici's column on the outer wall","Walk round the outside of the rotunda to the south-east side, the one facing the public garden. A stone column stands flush against the wall, and it is nearly two centuries older than the building behind it. Look for the interlaced letters H and C on the shaft, which stand for Catherine and her husband Henri. Then look up at the metal cage at the top.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1058\u002Fe3-9f88.webp","Moonik \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[202,207,212],{"boxType":203,"title":204,"body":205,"deepBody":206,"sourceNote":150},"history","All that is left of the queen's town house","A hollow stone column against the museum's outer wall is all that survives of the town house Catherine de' Medici built here.","The architect Jean Bullant built it in the 1570s. It is thirty-one metres tall, and a spiral staircase of 147 steps leads to a platform at the top. The queen's astrologer is said to have watched the stars from that platform. The house was pulled down in 1748, and the writer Louis Petit de Bachaumont bought the column to save it. The column is closed to visitors.",{"boxType":208,"title":209,"body":210,"deepBody":211,"sourceNote":150},"culture","Made in a studio, then glued to the wall","Painters made the panorama in their studios, on long strips of canvas. Specialists then glued those strips onto the curved wall. The painting was never made directly on the wall itself.","The strips of linen or hemp were about five metres wide. The band sits very high on the wall, so the heads in the foreground were painted about half a metre tall. Dirt and clouded varnish had turned the whole ring grey before the building became a museum. Twenty-four restorers then cleaned it, working in teams for a year.",{"boxType":213,"title":214,"body":215,"deepBody":216,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","The city still owns the walls","The City of Paris bought the exchange back from the chamber of commerce and leased it to a private art foundation.","The lease runs for fifty years. In return, the foundation of the collector François Pinault paid for the restoration. The city paid for its own purchase by giving the chamber two municipal buildings. 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