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You go down a spiral stair, walk a kilometre and a half of low tunnel at fourteen degrees, and come back up in a different street. The walls along the route are built out of the dead: long stacks of leg bones with rows of skulls set into the face, stretch after stretch. A stone at each section names the graveyard those bones came from and the year they arrived.\n\nParis cut its building limestone from under the Left Bank, the workings were never properly propped, and one day a stretch of road above them collapsed and took houses down with it. At the same moment the city's oldest graveyard, sitting in the middle of the food market, had run out of room. So the bones were carted out at night, priests walking behind, and tipped into the empty quarries. The arranging came later: a quarry inspector had them built into the walls you now walk between. Only about two hundred people are allowed below at once, so the wait to get in is longer than you expect and the tunnel itself is not crowded.","FR",[],"access|**The quota is small and fixed** — Only about two hundred people are allowed below at any moment, so the day's tickets usually run out and turning up without one often fails.\norientation|**You come out in a different street** — The exit staircase is some way from the entrance, so anything left at the start cannot be collected, and the route runs one way only.\nweather|**Dress for a cold day whatever the month is** — The rock holds one temperature all year, so a summer visitor in shorts feels it far more than a winter one in a coat. Water drips in places.\nphoto|**Leave the flash off** — The bone walls are lit low and evenly, and a flash flattens them into grey rubble. Without it you can see the pattern the stacking makes.\npace|**The bones come at the end** — The route opens with plain quarry galleries and the history of stone-cutting, so keep some time and attention for the ossuary itself.",[163,164,165],"ktul8aTbk4k","B3nelzptDFw","j6NyDFp95Bg","Europe\u002FParis","paris","c362351fac8c","historic","Denfert-Rochereau, Montparnasse (14th)",{"gallery":172,"exps":185,"boxes":199,"seasons":220,"near":221,"peers":222},[173,175,177,180,183],{"url":153,"attribution":174},"Diego Delso \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":176,"attribution":174},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1074\u002Fg0-ecaf.webp",{"url":178,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1074\u002Fg1-61ba.webp","Shadowgate from Novara, ITALY \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":181,"attribution":182},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1074\u002Fg2-02ae.webp","Jorge Láscar from Melbourne, Australia \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":184,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1074\u002Fg3-c0d3.webp",[186,190,195],{"title":187,"description":188,"imageUrl":189,"attribution":182},"Read the date over each wall of bones","Every stretch of the bone galleries carries a carved stone giving the graveyard the bones came from and the year the carts arrived. Stop at one and read it before you look at the wall. The bones in front of you all came from a single parish graveyard and were moved here together, and that carved stone is the only thing that still records which one.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1074\u002Fe0-d03a.webp",{"title":191,"description":192,"imageUrl":193,"attribution":194},"Find the quarryman's carving of a harbour fort","On the way to the bone galleries the route passes a wall that a workman carved into a model of a harbour fortress. His name was Décure, and he cut it in his own time in the 1780s, from memory of a place in Menorca where he had been held prisoner. He was killed in the tunnels while digging the stair down to it.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1074\u002Fe1-75e4.webp","KoS \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":179},"Stop at the doorway into the ossuary","A black-and-white doorframe stands across the tunnel with one line cut above it: stop, this is the empire of the dead. Read it, then look at how ordinary the passage is on either side. Everything before that threshold is a quarry and everything after it is a graveyard.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1074\u002Fe2-20b6.webp",[200,205,210,215],{"boxType":201,"title":202,"body":203,"deepBody":204,"sourceNote":150},"history","The graveyard that broke through a cellar wall","In 1780 the wall of a cellar next to the city's oldest graveyard gave way under the weight of bodies stacked behind it.","That graveyard, the Holy Innocents, had taken the dead of central Paris for six hundred years, and its ground had risen several metres above the street around it. Butchers and grocers worked against its wall. The city closed it that year. Emptying it took two years of night work, with the loads covered and a service said over each one.",{"boxType":206,"title":207,"body":208,"deepBody":209,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","The office that has held up the city since 1777","A royal office set up in 1777 has mapped and propped up these tunnels ever since, and its stone pillars carry the weight of the streets above.","Charles-Axel Guillaumot was its first head. He dug his inspection tunnels under the public streets, where the state had the right to work, and had the name of the street and the year carved into the wall at every turn. Where the roof was weak his men built stone pillars up from the floor. The office still exists, and it still inspects these tunnels.",{"boxType":211,"title":212,"body":213,"deepBody":214,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","Paris above was built from the stone dug out here","The pale limestone on the buildings above ground was cut out of these tunnels. The city up there is made of the stone that was taken from down here.","Paris sits on two useful rocks: limestone under the southern districts and gypsum under the north-eastern hills. Both were mined from directly beneath streets and houses that were already standing. By the eighteenth century a large part of the city had empty tunnels under it, and nobody had mapped them.",{"boxType":216,"title":217,"body":218,"deepBody":219,"sourceNote":150},"rules","Entering the tunnels anywhere else is illegal","Only this one route is open to the public. Entering the rest of the network has been against the law since 1955, and police patrol it.","The tunnels run for a few hundred kilometres under the southern districts, and people have been going down without permission for two centuries. Those who do it are called cataphiles. The authorities weld the entrances shut and the cataphiles open them again. 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