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The shops, the restaurants and the ice cream queue are all on one street, rue Saint-Louis-en-l'Île, which runs the length of it. Turn into any cross street and the noise stops within thirty paces. The quays carry almost no trade: plain stone fronts, plane trees, and steps down to a ledge at the water where people sit. About two thousand people live here, a quarter of the number packed in during the 1850s.\n\nIn 1614 the Crown handed two empty islets in the Seine to a contractor, Christophe Marie. The grass belonged to Notre-Dame's clergy; cattle grazed it and cloth was spread on it to bleach. Marie had to fill the channel between the islets, build lasting bridges to the banks and face the new edges in cut stone, and in exchange he could sell the new ground in plots. No king designed this place: Marie and two financiers laid it out themselves, to make money on it. Within about fifty years all eleven hectares were built up.","FR",[105,110,115,161,162],9,10,"detail|**Look up at number 51 on the main street** — A bearded stone face grins over the doorway, and two carved beasts hold up the balcony above it. Most people walk straight past.\nlight|**Pick your quay by the time of day** — Quai d'Orléans and quai de Béthune face south and hold sun all afternoon. Quai d'Anjou and quai de Bourbon opposite sit in shade.\nwater|**In winter you may not reach the water** — When the Seine runs high the lower ledge floods and the city shuts the stairways. The upper quay stays open in any weather.\nart|**Find number 9 on quai d'Anjou** — The caricaturist Honoré Daumier lived there from 1846, when laundry boats were moored below, and painted the women hauling wet linen up the steps.\norientation|**Walk to the far west end of quai d'Orléans** — From there you look at the back of Notre-Dame across a narrow arm of water. You see its buttresses and its roof with nothing in the way.",[165,166,167,168,169],"L-cMFjHfZ18","d7pETcsh22w","knGI4bcH15s","wiu2unR_7eU","BjhihpDoEiw","Europe\u002FParis","paris","c362351fac8c","Île Saint-Louis (4th)",{"gallery":175,"exps":190,"boxes":206,"seasons":227,"near":228,"peers":229},[176,178,181,184,187],{"url":153,"attribution":177},"Mbzt \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":179,"attribution":180},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1062\u002Fg0-9f22.webp","GFreihalter \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":182,"attribution":183},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1062\u002Fg1-f1f6.webp","Florian Pépellin \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":185,"attribution":186},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1062\u002Fg2-0b93.webp","Moonik \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":188,"attribution":189},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1062\u002Fg3-4596.webp","Guilhem Vellut from Paris, France \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[191,196,201],{"title":192,"description":193,"imageUrl":194,"attribution":195},"Walk quai de Bourbon and look up at the balconies","Stand on quai de Bourbon with your back to the river and look up. The balconies, the tallest windows and the carved stonework all face the water. The courtyards are behind, out of sight. Seen from the lower walkway at the water's edge, the fronts rise in one unbroken wall of stone.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1062\u002Fe0-1425.webp","LPLT \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":197,"description":198,"imageUrl":199,"attribution":200},"Stand at the point where the Seine splits in two","Walk to the small triangular garden at the island's upstream point. The Seine arrives as one body of water and splits at the stonework below you, one arm down each side of the island. The bronze beasts on the monument to the sculptor Barye are copies. The originals were melted down for metal in 1942, under the Vichy government.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1062\u002Fe1-84d2.webp","Jebulon \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":202,"description":203,"imageUrl":204,"attribution":205},"Step inside the church you would otherwise walk past","Saint-Louis-en-l'Île sits mid-street behind a flat front, easy to miss between the shopfronts. Inside it is brighter and more gilded than the outside suggests, lit from windows set high above the floor. Back outside, look up at the iron clock that sticks out over the pavement. Above it stands the stone spire, cut through with open holes.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1062\u002Fe2-7392.webp","FLLL \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[207,212,217,222],{"boxType":208,"title":209,"body":210,"deepBody":211,"sourceNote":150},"history","Three developers' names are still on the street signs","Marie, Poulletier and Le Regrattier put up the money to build on the island in 1614. A bridge and two streets still carry their names.","Christophe Marie held the Crown's contract for bridges across France, which is why the work fell to him. His partners Lugles Poulletier and François Le Regrattier were financiers. Building dragged on for decades after the contract was signed, so neighbouring houses on one quay can be a generation apart in style.",{"boxType":213,"title":214,"body":215,"deepBody":216,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","What is behind the two doors that never open","Behind the door at 17 quai d'Anjou are painted ceilings from the 1650s, and no visitor gets to see them.","It is the Hôtel de Lauzun, with ceilings by the painter Michel Dorigny. The City of Paris has owned it since 1928 and lends it to a research institute, which keeps it closed to the public. The poet Charles Baudelaire once wrote in an attic room here. The island's other grand house, the Hôtel Lambert, lost a painted room when its roof burned in 2013.",{"boxType":218,"title":219,"body":220,"deepBody":221,"sourceNote":150},"culture","Chopin's death mask is kept on this island","A Polish library at 6 quai d'Orléans keeps Chopin's death mask, a cast of his hand and an 1845 piano.","Polish exiles reached Paris after the 1830 uprising against Russian rule failed. Their leader, Prince Adam Czartoryski, bought the Hôtel Lambert at the island's upstream end. The library they founded moved in 1854 to quai d'Orléans, on the opposite side of the island. Its reading room and museum rooms are open to visitors, so this is the second interior on the island you can walk into, after the church.",{"boxType":223,"title":224,"body":225,"deepBody":226,"sourceNote":150},"food","The ice cream shop closes at the busiest time of year","Berthillon shuts from late July until the start of September, which is when most visitors are on the island.","Raymond Berthillon began making ice cream at 31 rue Saint-Louis-en-l'Île in the 1950s, and his family still makes it in the same building rather than opening branches elsewhere. During the summer break the cafés and restaurants along the same street keep selling the tubs, because they buy the ice cream wholesale like any other shop that stocks it.",[],[],[230,238,246,254,260,268,275,283,290,297,304,312],{"id":231,"name":232,"slug":233,"publicId":234,"coverImageUrl":235,"poiTheme":236,"neighborhood":237},1051,"Père-Lachaise Cemetery","paris-pere-lachaise-cemetery","d2d32dd4a866","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1051\u002Fcover-84a7.webp","historic","Charonne \u002F Ménilmontant (20th)",{"id":239,"name":240,"slug":241,"publicId":242,"coverImageUrl":243,"poiTheme":244,"neighborhood":245},1050,"Panthéon","paris-pantheon","7e37a4195e6e","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1050\u002Fcover-1d81.webp","landmark","Latin Quarter (5th)",{"id":247,"name":248,"slug":249,"publicId":250,"coverImageUrl":251,"poiTheme":252,"neighborhood":253},1048,"Musée 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