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Iron balconies climb four floors round a central well, painted in green and gold, with a long enamelled frieze of peacocks running along them and a glass roof over the top. Stand on the ground floor and you can see every department at once, which was exactly the point. A new front on the street behind is a wall of glass folded into vertical ripples, and it was not designed to match the buildings beside it.\n\nTwo market traders opened a shop on this corner in 1870 and spent the next thirty-five years buying the block around it, one building at a time. In 1905 they handed the whole site to the architect Frantz Jourdain. Instead of dividing it into rooms he threw an iron frame across the lot, roofed the middle in glass and left every floor open to the well. 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Four storeys of iron balcony rise round you to a glass roof, and a frieze of peacocks runs the whole way round at one of the levels, reading from down here as a single green band. Take the stairs up to that balcony and walk the circuit: from there you can pick out individual birds, the foliage between them and the joints between the fired slabs. The colour is as strong as it was when the panels were first bolted into place.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1093\u002Fe0-6546.webp",{"title":192,"description":193,"imageUrl":194,"attribution":182},"Walk round to the rippled front","Come out and go round to the street side. The glass wall folds in and out in vertical waves, so the buildings opposite look bent in its reflection. Walk along it and the reflection moves with you. The wall was not designed to match the stone fronts on either side of it.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1093\u002Fe2-c077.webp",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":199},"Look at the Art Deco block on the river side","The front on the quay is a different building again, put up in the 1920s. It has flat stone and geometric metalwork, without the curves of the iron hall behind it. About two decades separate the two. The store bought the block one piece at a time, which is why its four sides look nothing like each other.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1093\u002Fe3-fccd.webp","En-bateau \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[201,206,211,216],{"boxType":202,"title":203,"body":204,"deepBody":205,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","How a store emptied a street of shops","The arcades sold through dozens of small independent tenants. A department store put every trade under one owner, one roof and one price list.","Three things were new: fixed prices, the right to come in without having to buy, and goods the customer could pick up and handle. All three brought in crowds. The arcades could not match them, because an arcade is only a covered street and its shopkeepers competed with one another instead of buying stock together. Within a generation most of the arcades had emptied.",{"boxType":207,"title":208,"body":209,"deepBody":210,"sourceNote":150},"culture","The peacocks are enamel on lava","The frieze round the balconies is enamel fired onto slabs of volcanic stone, which is why its colour has not faded in a century.","Lava from the Auvergne was cut into panels, glazed and fired like pottery, then bolted into place. The technique was used for street signs and shopfronts because it stands up to weather without fading. The frieze runs the length of the hall and was cleaned panel by panel during the restoration.",{"boxType":212,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":150},"history","Sixteen years shut","The store closed in 2005 because the fire authorities would not sign it off, and the owners took until 2021 to open it again.","Several hundred staff were moved to other stores. Reopening meant strengthening the whole iron frame to modern standards without taking the hall apart, which is the reason it took so long. The block now holds a hotel, offices, social housing and a nursery as well as the shop.",{"boxType":202,"title":217,"body":218,"deepBody":219,"sourceNote":150},"The new glass front makes no attempt to copy its neighbours","The street facade added for the reopening is a single sheet of glass folded into vertical waves, with no cornice, no stone and no windows.","The architects were asked to fill a gap left by demolished buildings on the street side. 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