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You wander lanes too narrow for two cars, past galleries, boutiques and falafel counters, then push open a heavy carriage door and find a silent cobbled courtyard the street never hinted at. Those courtyards belong to hôtels particuliers, the grand private mansions France's nobility built here through the 1600s, once Henri IV laid out the arcaded square now called Place des Vosges. Haussmann's boulevards, which flattened much of old Paris, largely bypassed it.\n\nWhen the aristocrats moved to the Left Bank, the quarter slid into a warren of workshops and tenements, which is the accident that preserved it. Around Rue des Rosiers the old Jewish quarter keeps its bakeries and delis. Elsewhere the mansions hold museums now, from Picasso to Victor Hugo's apartment on Place des Vosges. Sunday is the busy day here, when much of Paris is shut and the Marais is not. 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Then step into the central garden, take a bench, and let your eye travel round the four unbroken sides until you find the two taller pavilions that interrupt the ring.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F692\u002Fe-5097.webp","Hans \u002F Pixabay Content License — Pixabay",{"title":195,"description":196,"imageUrl":197,"attribution":198},"Push open a mansion door","Along Rue des Francs-Bourgeois and Rue de Sévigné, lean on the tall carriage doors of the hôtels particuliers; many are unlatched by day. Step through into the cobbled courtyard behind, tip your head back at the sculpted stone and sweeping staircase, and wait for the street noise to drop to nothing.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F692\u002Fe-5098.webp","139904 \u002F Pixabay Content License — Pixabay",{"title":200,"description":201,"imageUrl":202,"attribution":203},"Eat falafel on Rue des Rosiers","Join the queue at a falafel window on Rue des Rosiers, take the paper-wrapped pita, and eat it as you walk. Afterwards wander the old bookshops and record stores tucked along the same lanes, then turn one street over to the small synagogue Hector Guimard designed.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F692\u002Fe-5099.webp","luckyhand2010 \u002F Pixabay Content License — Pixabay",{"title":205,"description":206,"imageUrl":207,"attribution":208},"Lunch at the oldest covered market","Slip through the gate of the Marché des Enfants Rouges, trading since the 1600s and the oldest covered market in Paris. Wander the tight aisles between flower stalls and food counters, pick a plate from the Moroccan, Italian, or Japanese stands, and eat elbow-to-elbow at a shared table.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F692\u002Fe-5100.webp","stokpic \u002F Pixabay Content License — Pixabay",[210,215,220,224],{"boxType":211,"title":212,"body":213,"deepBody":214,"sourceNote":150},"history","How a swamp became the grandest address in Paris","The monks who drained it farmed vegetables on the reclaimed flats — a rural past most visitors walking the boutiques never suspect.","From the 12th century, monks and the Knights Templar cut drainage channels across the waterlogged right bank, and the Templars ran a fortified enclosure here with its own privileges and rights of asylum. Street names still hold the memory: Rue de la Culture Sainte-Catherine for the cultivated ground, Rue du Temple for the knights who worked it.",{"boxType":216,"title":217,"body":218,"deepBody":219,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","The square that Paris copied for the next 400 years","Thirty-six matching brick-and-stone pavilions wrapped in arcades, laid out as one design when planned squares were still a novelty.","Opened around 1612 as Place Royale, it is the oldest planned square in Paris and a model for squares across Europe. Façades of rose brick and pale stone rise above a continuous arcade, ringing a garden of clipped lindens. Two taller pavilions face each other across it — the King's and the Queen's — the one break in an otherwise uniform frame.",{"boxType":211,"title":221,"body":222,"deepBody":223,"sourceNote":150},"Why the Marais kept its old streets when the rest of Paris didn't","By the 1950s it was a decaying slum marked for clearance; rescue came from a culture minister who was also a novelist.","By the mid-1900s the mansions Haussmann had passed over were subdivided into crumbling workshops. A 1962 law pushed by writer-minister André Malraux let whole historic quarters be protected at once, and the Marais became one of the first — which halted the bulldozers and funded restoration. Soot came off the blackened stone, and the galleries and boutiques followed.",{"boxType":225,"title":226,"body":227,"deepBody":228,"sourceNote":150},"local_secret","The 'little place' where Yiddish Paris still has an address","Behind the fashion boutiques, a handful of lanes has kept a distinct Jewish life for centuries — and hides an unexpected synagogue.","Locals call the area the Pletzl, Yiddish for 'little place.' Ashkenazi Jews from Eastern Europe settled here through the 1800s, followed by Sephardic families from North Africa in the mid-1900s, each wave adding its own shops and prayer houses. A street away stands the Art Nouveau synagogue Hector Guimard designed — the Métro architect's only religious building.",[],[],[232,240,248,255,262,270,277,284,292,299,306,313],{"id":233,"name":234,"slug":235,"publicId":236,"coverImageUrl":237,"poiTheme":238,"neighborhood":239},1051,"Père-Lachaise Cemetery","paris-pere-lachaise-cemetery","d2d32dd4a866","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1051\u002Fcover-84a7.webp","historic","Charonne \u002F Ménilmontant (20th)",{"id":241,"name":242,"slug":243,"publicId":244,"coverImageUrl":245,"poiTheme":246,"neighborhood":247},1050,"Panthéon","paris-pantheon","7e37a4195e6e","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1050\u002Fcover-1d81.webp","landmark","Latin Quarter (5th)",{"id":249,"name":250,"slug":251,"publicId":252,"coverImageUrl":253,"poiTheme":246,"neighborhood":254},1052,"Les 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