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Two long wings of pale stone face the river, with a colonnade along them and an open terrace between. Nothing here was updated to another decade: the stripped columns and the sculpture on the river front are 1937 through and through. You arrive across that terrace, which is where the fair crowds arrived too, and go in from there.\n\nOne room here was built for a single painting. Raoul Dufy's La Fée Électricité runs round a curved wall in 250 panels and covers about six hundred square metres, which makes it one of the largest paintings ever made in France. The electricity company commissioned it for the fair, and it shows a hundred and ten scientists and thinkers who had a hand in electricity, with gods above them. Two versions of a Matisse mural hang here as well, including the one he had to paint again because the wall measurements turned out to be wrong. In 2010 a man cut five paintings from their frames overnight, and none has been recovered.","FR",[],"access|**The permanent collection is free** — There is no ticket for the Dufy room or the Matisse murals, and only the temporary shows are charged for.\ncrowds|**It is the quiet museum on this stretch of river** — There are far busier collections within a short walk, and this one is rarely crowded even in August.\nlight|**The Dufy room is dim on purpose** — The lighting is deliberately low, so give your eyes a minute to adjust after you come in from the terrace.\nart|**The permanent collection moves around** — This is a city collection rather than a fixed hang, so what is on the walls beyond the two big murals differs from one visit to the next.\npace|**Two rooms carry the visit** — Most visitors come for the Dufy painting and the Matisse murals, and both deserve more time than the rest of the floor.",[163,164,165,166],"QJnHAsM28eE","Boxi6za1Tmw","_thkYvKtkHc","wbYLf4Ms5so","Europe\u002FParis","paris","c362351fac8c","museum","Palais de Tokyo \u002F Alma (16th)",{"gallery":173,"exps":191,"boxes":204,"seasons":225,"near":226,"peers":227},[174,176,179,182,185,188],{"url":153,"attribution":175},"Maciej Zgadzaj \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":177,"attribution":178},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1091\u002Fg0-866c.webp","Coldcreation \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":180,"attribution":181},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1091\u002Fg1-be38.webp","GFreihalter \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":183,"attribution":184},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1091\u002Fg2-8c89.webp","Francesco Bini \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":186,"attribution":187},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1091\u002Fg3-543b.webp","Guillaume Baviere from Stockholm, Sweden \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":189,"attribution":190},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1091\u002Fg4-a7e5.webp","DiscoA340 \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[192,196,200],{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":181},"Sit down in the Dufy room","Raoul Dufy's painting La Fée Électricité curves round three sides of a room that was built to hold it. There is nowhere far enough back to see all of it at once. Sit on the bench in the middle and turn your head slowly through the full sweep of it. Then pick one figure and work out what he is holding.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1091\u002Fe0-e653.webp",{"title":197,"description":198,"imageUrl":199,"attribution":184},"Compare the two versions of Matisse's Dance","Both versions hang where you can see them together. Compare where the arms and legs run off the edge in each one, and see how differently the same bodies fill a slightly different shape. One of the two is the version Matisse had to paint again, because the wall measurements he worked from turned out to be wrong.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1091\u002Fe1-b9e3.webp",{"title":201,"description":202,"imageUrl":203,"attribution":190},"Go out onto the terrace, then down to the quay","The steps between the two wings run down to an open terrace above the river, outside the museum and free to walk onto. The Eiffel Tower stands across the water to the left, and skateboarders use the far end of the stone floor. Carry on down to the embankment and look back up. A long carved relief runs the whole width of the building, and from there the terrace, the columns and the steps line up as a single design — the side the 1937 fair crowds arrived at.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1091\u002Fe2-6ae0.webp",[205,210,215,220],{"boxType":206,"title":207,"body":208,"deepBody":209,"sourceNote":150},"history","What the 1937 fair was","The exposition put national pavilions along both banks of the river, and the German and Soviet ones were built directly facing each other.","Picasso's painting Guernica was shown that summer in the Spanish pavilion. Almost every building put up for the fair was taken down again afterwards, which is what usually happens to fair buildings. This palace was one of the few that were kept, together with the Palais de Chaillot across the river, and both were designed from the start to be permanent.",{"boxType":211,"title":212,"body":213,"deepBody":214,"sourceNote":150},"culture","How Dufy painted six hundred square metres in under a year","He worked on 250 removable plywood panels laid out in a shed, so several could be painted at once and the whole thing assembled on site.","The panels are about two metres by a metre and a quarter. He used a fast oil-based paint that dried in hours rather than days, developed for the job with a chemist. Assistants filled in the flat areas of colour and Dufy drew the lines over the top, which is why the line and the colour do not always meet exactly.",{"boxType":216,"title":217,"body":218,"deepBody":219,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","The night five paintings were stolen","In May 2010 one man got in through a window, cut five paintings from their frames and left. None has been seen since.","The alarm system had been out of order for weeks, and the guards on duty noticed nothing until morning. The works were by Picasso, Matisse, Braque, Modigliani and Léger. The men convicted of the theft said the canvases had been destroyed. That has never been proved, and the museum still lists the paintings as stolen.",{"boxType":221,"title":222,"body":223,"deepBody":224,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","The building is two museums with one address","The eastern wing is the city's modern art museum; the western wing is a separate contemporary art centre with its own door and its own ticket.","The two wings share a terrace and a colonnade, and they share a name as well, which confuses almost everybody. The whole building is called the Palais de Tokyo, and the west wing on its own is also called the Palais de Tokyo. The two museums have different owners, different opening hours and completely different programmes. 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