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In the last week of August 1944 the city rose against the German garrison. The police occupied their own headquarters and barricades went up in the streets. The fighting ran for six days, until an armoured division reached the centre and the German commander surrendered. The Resistance commander for Paris, Henri Rol-Tanguy, directed that fighting from an air-raid shelter under this square, dug in 1938 for the city's water engineers. It is still down there.\n\nUpstairs the museum is built around two men who never met. Jean Moulin was sent into occupied France to bring the separate Resistance groups under one command; he was arrested in 1943, tortured, and died in German hands. Philippe Leclerc took a column of Free French soldiers across Africa and led the division that entered Paris. Their lives run in parallel down the same rooms, in letters, false papers, uniforms and film. A spiral stair of a hundred steps leads down to a corridor of small rooms, where the switchboard and the camp beds have been left exactly as they were.","FR",[],"access|**Entry is free, but shelter places are limited** — The museum costs nothing. The day's places for the shelter visit are handed out at the desk first thing in the morning and go quickly.\norientation|**The square has two matching stone pavilions** — The museum is inside one of them, and the entrance to the Catacombs is close by on the same square, so check which door you are walking into.\ncontext|**Paris tells its own story here** — The museum was made by the city about the city, so the 1944 uprising is told street by street rather than as a military campaign on a map.\nhistory|**The museum moved here on purpose** — It stood in Montparnasse until 2019 and was brought to this square precisely because the command shelter is underneath it.\nfamily|**The underground part is not for everyone** — The shelter visit means a hundred steps down with no lift, low ceilings, and the same stair back up, so some visitors cannot do it at all.",[163,164,165],"EjdnRiWC4wU","FK3sm2eAKgA","jJYX4e_I8MQ","Europe\u002FParis","paris","c362351fac8c","museum","Denfert-Rochereau, Montparnasse (14th)",{"gallery":172,"exps":184,"boxes":203,"seasons":223,"near":224,"peers":225},[173,175,178,181],{"url":153,"attribution":174},"Polymagou \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":176,"attribution":177},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1081\u002Fg0-8b99.webp","Ibex73 \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":179,"attribution":180},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1081\u002Fg1-7c20.webp","Forces Françaises de l'Intérieur (FFI), autorité émettrice \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":182,"attribution":183},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1081\u002Fg2-f661.webp","William Jexpire \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[185,189,194,199],{"title":186,"description":187,"imageUrl":188,"attribution":177},"Go down the hundred steps","The stair to the shelter spirals down from a door in the museum floor. Count the turns as you go. At the bottom the air is cooler and the noise of the square above stops completely. This is the room from which the Paris uprising of August 1944 was directed, and the switchboard is still on the wall.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1081\u002Fe0-124a.webp",{"title":190,"description":191,"imageUrl":192,"attribution":193},"Find the milestone standing by the entrance","A white marker just over a metre high stands against the wall by the glass doors. Its dome is ringed with stars and its front carries a red flame. One panel reads Saint-Martin-de-Varreville – Paris, 562 km. That is the distance from the Normandy beach where Leclerc's division landed on 1 August 1944 to this square. The other panel records the oath Leclerc's men swore at Koufra, in the Libyan desert, in 1941. They would not lay down their arms until the French flag flew over Strasbourg cathedral, and it did in November 1944.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1081\u002Fe1-bee4.webp","Mulotropisme \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":195,"description":196,"imageUrl":197,"attribution":198},"Read Moulin's life and Leclerc's side by side upstairs","The galleries run Moulin's life and Leclerc's along parallel walls, year by year. Walk one wall to the end, then walk the other back. Jean Moulin was born in 1899 and Philippe Leclerc in 1902, and the two men never met. Moulin was dead by July 1943, and in August 1944 Leclerc drove his division into Paris.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1081\u002Fe2-bog4.webp","Jean-Pierre Dalbéra \u002F Flickr (CC BY 2.0)",{"title":200,"description":201,"imageUrl":202,"attribution":180},"Look closely at the false papers","Among the cases upstairs are identity cards made by hand: the right paper, the right stamps, a photograph and a name that belonged to no real person. Get close enough to see the ink. Each card was the only thing protecting the person who carried it, and a badly made one got its holder killed.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1081\u002Fe3-222a.webp",[204,209,213,218],{"boxType":205,"title":206,"body":207,"deepBody":208,"sourceNote":150},"history","Why the shelter was already there","The Resistance took it over in August 1944 because it still had electricity, clean air and working telephone lines when much of Paris had none.","It was one of several shelters the city dug under Paris in the years before the war, gas-proof and meant for the engineers who ran the water and the sewers. What made it useful was the filtered ventilation plant and the telephone exchange, not the concrete.",{"boxType":205,"title":210,"body":211,"deepBody":212,"sourceNote":150},"What Jean Moulin was sent to do","The Resistance was a dozen separate movements that did not trust one another. Moulin's job was to make them answer to a single committee.","He was parachuted in from London at the start of 1942, carrying authority from de Gaulle but commanding no fighters of his own. In May 1943 he got the movements, the political parties and the unions into one room in Paris, and they agreed to answer to a single national council. He was arrested three weeks later.",{"boxType":214,"title":215,"body":216,"deepBody":217,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","The orders left the bunker in a pram","Cécile Rol-Tanguy typed and carried papers out of the shelter, moving them through checkpoints in her daughter's pram.","She had been a liaison agent since 1940, carrying messages between Resistance groups, and she knew the network from the inside. Women did much of that carrying because they were stopped and searched less often than men. She lived until 2020 and spent her last decades telling schoolchildren what had happened under this square.",{"boxType":219,"title":220,"body":221,"deepBody":222,"sourceNote":150},"rules","The bunker cannot be booked","Places on the shelter visit are handed out at the desk on the day, and there are very few of them.","There is no online booking and no way to reserve ahead, so the places go to whoever is at the desk when it opens. Groups are kept small because the rooms are small. 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