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Behind a roofless double row of older columns the garden opens out: gravel walks, lime trees clipped into flat green walls, a round basin, two fenced enclosures thick with ivy and honeysuckle. Traffic runs close on every side, and inside you mostly hear boules landing on the gravel.\n\nThe palace itself holds government offices and has no visitor entrance, so the courtyard and the garden are the whole of the visit. The duke of Chartres got the king's leave in 1781 to line three sides with buildings and rent out the ground floors, filling them with shops, cafés, theatres and gambling rooms. Royal police could not set foot on his land, so radical speakers used the garden as a forum. On 12 July 1789 Camille Desmoulins climbed onto a café table here and called the crowd to arms; the Bastille fell two days later.","FR",[105,110,115,161,162],9,10,"orientation|**Look for a narrow passage cut under the buildings** — The site has no grand gateway. Every way in is an opening through the ground floor of the blocks around it, easy to miss from the street.\ncrowds|**Cross the columns and the crowd thins** — Most people stop in the courtyard to photograph the columns. Forty paces further north the garden is usually calmer, and quietest at its far end by rue de Beaujolais.\ndetail|**Look for the turning steel balls** — Two basins among the bare columns hold polished steel spheres by Pol Bury; when the water runs they turn slowly, and most people walk straight past.\nlight|**Come back after dark** — After sunset a small light set into the paving glows red or green at every crossing point of Buren's grid, and blue light rises through the steel grates in the courtyard floor.\nweather|**Take a side walk, not the middle one** — The garden's centre is open gravel with no shade at all, while the two side walks run under double rows of limes and stay cool well into the afternoon.",[165,166,167,168,169],"uc3PFI_x9tU","6OHNJOSLf-0","ddECwhZ-Bl4","ifujgbw50Jw","bUlA7Huhelw","Europe\u002FParis","paris","c362351fac8c","palace","Palais-Royal (1st)",{"gallery":176,"exps":193,"boxes":209,"seasons":230,"near":231,"peers":232},[177,179,182,185,187,190],{"url":153,"attribution":178},"Guilhem Vellut from Paris, France \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":180,"attribution":181},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1053\u002Fg0-e661.webp","Florian Pépellin \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":183,"attribution":184},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1053\u002Fg1-4e6c.webp","Mbzt \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":186,"attribution":178},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1053\u002Fg2-8a2e.webp",{"url":188,"attribution":189},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1053\u002Fg3-ff0f.webp","Formulavee \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":191,"attribution":192},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1053\u002Fg4-d4d4.webp","Hameltion \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[194,199,204],{"title":195,"description":196,"imageUrl":197,"attribution":198},"Find the corner where a speaker called Paris to arms","Walk up the west gallery, called the Galerie de Montpensier, to its northern end. Nothing marks the café that stood under these arches, where a young journalist called the crowd to arms on 12 July 1789. Look down the garden at the open ground that crowd filled, then up at the trees. That day people stripped green leaves from these trees and pinned them to their hats as a badge.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1053\u002Fe0-afe3.webp","Chabe01 \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":200,"description":201,"imageUrl":202,"attribution":203},"Crouch at a grate, then sight along the column tops","Three long trenches run between the rows of striped columns, and steel grates cover them. Kneel and look down: the columns carry on below ground, where they all stop at the same level, so a second set of column tops sits under the first. Stay low and look along one row above ground, where the tallest column and the shortest end at the same height, because the ground beneath them slopes. Then look closely at a stripe: every black and white band is 8.7 centimetres wide, the width Daniel Buren has used throughout his career.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1053\u002Fe1-465b.webp","Guilhem Vellut from Annecy, France \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":205,"description":206,"imageUrl":207,"attribution":208},"Read the poem cut into the chair opposite you","In the garden, metal chairs stand in facing pairs on the gravel. Lines of poetry are cut right through their backrests, so from one seat you read the words on the other against the light. The Canadian sculptor Michel Goulet placed the first pairs here in 2016.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1053\u002Fe3-6125.webp","Econoclaste \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[210,215,220,225],{"boxType":211,"title":212,"body":213,"deepBody":214,"sourceNote":150},"history","Why the king's police could not come in","The ground here belonged to the Orléans family, the king's cousins, and not to the crown. It had been granted to them outright, so inside these walls their rules applied instead of the king's.","That freedom is why the place mattered. Banned pamphlets were sold openly here, and gambling rooms and brothels ran on the floors above the shops. A speaker whom the police would have arrested out on the street could say what he liked inside. Public gambling was banned in 1836, and the palace and its garden have been quiet ever since.",{"boxType":216,"title":217,"body":218,"deepBody":219,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","Two rows of columns that hold up nothing","The bare double row of columns between the courtyard and the garden once carried a glass roof over a shopping gallery.","Charles Percier and Pierre Fontaine built that gallery around 1830 for Louis-Philippe d'Orléans, who became king while the work was going on. It replaced a rickety row of wooden stalls. The new shops stood in a passage roofed with iron and glass and lit by gas. The roof and the shops were taken out in 1935, and only the stone columns were left.",{"boxType":221,"title":222,"body":223,"deepBody":224,"sourceNote":150},"culture","The court in this building had the columns stopped","France's highest administrative court works behind this courtyard, and in March 1986 it confirmed an order halting the artwork outside its windows.","The state's heritage commission had voted the design too modern in 1985, and the culture minister Jack Lang pressed on anyway. Residents took the project to court, and the builders had to stop with the columns half finished. Buren argued that an artist has a moral right to see his work completed. The new minister, François Léotard, agreed and ordered the site restarted, and the finished columns were unveiled in July 1986.",{"boxType":226,"title":227,"body":228,"deepBody":229,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","The little cannon that Parisians set their watches by","A small bronze cannon on the southern lawn once fired at noon with no gunner: a magnifying glass focused the sun's rays onto the powder and set it off.","A clockmaker called Rousseau set it up in 1786, and Parisians corrected their watches by the bang. It only fired on clear days in the warmer half of the year, because the glass needed strong, high sunlight to light the powder. In time Parisians came to rely on mechanical clocks instead. 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